fatlittleboy

XXII

2011-11-21T11:30:00.001+11:00

XXII

22 Union Street, Pyrmont, NSW 2009

Until now, I’ve always walked past this cute little corner café brimming with curiosity an unfortunately full tummy. Tucked in a well-heeled neighbourhood with a Simon Johnson instead of a Coles and a stone’s throw away from the newly refurbished Star, I knew I was in for a treat when my date and I finally walked in.

At the suggestion of our charming waiter, we started off with the Bruschetta du Jour ($10.5) that was quite different from the typical too-hard crostini with arbitrary marinated tomatoes. A rosette of salmon “confit” crowned with a dollop of dill-infused crème fraîche was presented on a silky smooth blanket of mashed avocado atop pillowy pliant foccacia. I could not have enough.

The Handmade Gnocchi with Burnt Butter Sage Sauce and Chargrilled Prawns ($18.5) should not be missed. The gnocchi were in beautifully irregular rustic nubbins, richly satisfying with a blend of polenta and ricotta. The sauce was brilliantly perfumed with sage, the verdant leaves fried to a crisp and tossed in for extra effect. Undeniably perfect prawns completed the trifecta with their moist crunch and marine sweetness.

My Chef’s Special ($16.5) was good if a little less spectacular. Al dente penne in a pomodoro sauce enriched with eggplant with chunks of pork fillet was tasty but left me still quite hungry.

We finished off with a Hazelnut Brûlée with Savoiardi Gelato ($12). This was really quite beautiful with that bittersweet burnt sugar tang having an added nutty edge and balanced by a deliciously creamy gelato capturing that rich yet delicate sweetness of ladyfinger biscuits.

A remark on service: For the better part of the meal, we were impressed by our debonair waiter who was full of wonderful recommendations and a rich Italian accent that added atmosphere to the meal. Thankfully only our dessert order was somewhat poorly handled by a rather lazy and irritable Aussie waitress who had to be told to check which desserts were available as she agonised over the possibilities for a good two minutes and - to our shock - hollered them to us across the room. The other diners present appeared rather taken aback too.

Assiette

2011-09-20T17:08:00.000+10:00

Assiette

48 Albion Street, Surry Hills, NSW 2010

Tel: +6192127979

Typically more exciting than breakfast staples yet far more relaxed than stuffy dinners and with better light for pictures, lunch is my favourite meal to blog about. Furthermore, I love to make the most of every experience so truncated lunch menus that a small table can exhaust are foremost on my list of favourite things. I must say Assiette certainly covered all these bases to win my heart with its three-course two-choice Friday Lunch ($35).

I opted for a Miso-Glazed Salmon with Buckwheat Noodles, Sesame and Daikon as my starter. Arresting in presentation with a medley of subtle and refined Japanese flavours, it tickled my palate perfectly.

The Pumpkin Soup with Crispy Chicken Wing and Fennel Seeds was a richer, heartier choice. The fennel seeds gave this quintessential comfort food a reinvigorating ethnic zing.

My main came in the form of a Navarin of Lamb in Red Wine, undeniably classic and a safe bet to satisfy. It was elegantly executed and perfectly melt-in-your mouth if somewhat predictable.

The Pan Fried Sea Bream with Pea and Spring Onion Risotto pleased my companions with the Arborio richness and sweet peas balanced by refreshing spring onion sharpness. All that formed a firm stage for the bream to be presented spectacularly unadorned.

Desserts - without a doubt – stole the show. I appreciated the delicate sweetness of the Pear and Almond Tarte Fine with Vanilla Mascarpone. Smooth, vanilla bean-studded mascarpone complemented the fragrant, flaky pastry with more oomph than mere whipped cream ever could have.

However it was the Bread and Butter Pudding with Orange and Cardamom Anglaise that had my heart. At the first bite, you think you have it all figured out as another run-of-the-mill pudding and are about to dismiss it. Then, subtle, delayed and lingering, the sensual spice hits in an almost playful manner. Much like the fennel seeds in the pumpkin soup; cardamom filled this dusty, age-old standard with new life.

Garfish

2011-09-12T14:43:00.005+10:00

Garfish

6/29 Holtermann Street, NSW 2065

Tel: +6199660445

I went to Garfish awhile back and rekindled my love for seafood. It was clear from the get-go that this establishment’s faith rests firmly in quality fish. From an ever-changing specials menu reflecting the best fish in season to specifying the geographical origin of what would arrive on my plate, I knew I was in for a treat.

Spiced Yellowfin Tuna (NSW) with a side of Harissa Roasted Pumpkin, Chickpea and Parsley Salad with Garlic Yoghurt Dressing ($36) was a substantial slab of fish. The Mediterranean spice rub lovingly massaged into it was punchy enough to complement the delicious smoky character of seared tuna yet remained nuanced enough to not mask everything completely.

Roasted Hiramasa Kingfish (SA) with a side of Sautéed Brussel Sprouts, Salsa Verde and Toasted Almonds ($34) was the show-stealer of the evening. Its crisp skin alone was an other-worldly experience; impossibly light and crisp in texture yet possessing a wealth of sweet-salty marine flavour.

The jury’s still out on the Hiramasa Kingfish and King Prawn Sausage with Crushed Peas, Radish and Lime Buerre Blanc ($20). While the chewy-crunchy mouthfeel was undeniably pleasant, fish cannot provide that greasy stick-to-your-ribs bliss that its terrestrial counterparts can.

Chocolate Pave with Griottines, Almond Brittle and Orange Sauce ($13.50) was so smooth and rich that the subtle citrus edge fell somewhat short of being a true counterpoint. I reckon a slightly darker chocolate with a bolder bitter tang would have really brought it home.

Café Ish

2011-08-14T14:40:00.007+10:00

Café Ish

82 Campbell Street, Surry Hills, NSW 2010

Tel: +6192811688

Café Ish describes itself as a Native-Australian Japanese Café-Bar and certainly delivers that in principle. Everything on the menu certainly has the potential to enthral and amaze with a cheeky spin on ingredients that are usually mutually exclusive. However, it was somewhat of a hit-and-miss adventure.

Cabbage with Wattle Seed Miso Mayonnaise ($6) was a beautiful starter with the crunchy, sweet leaves highlighting the punchy miso in the creamy dip.

Fried Potato and Organic Fetta Mochi with Davidson Plum Tonkatsu Sauce ($5) was something I popped into my mouth with some degree of trepidation but it rewarded with a delightful textural experience. The light and crisp outer crust yielded to a piping-hot, delicately chewy core in which the salty cheese and sugary sauce embraced.

Miso Soup with Kombu and Mushroom Stock ($5) was the perfect palate cleanser with its delightful umaminess.

Sea Urchin and Tuna Salad was an off-menu item that should be a permanent fixture, though I was hard-pressed to find a scrap of uni. The tuna on the other hand was gorgeous, lightly charred on the outside but richly rosy at the centre.

California Roll of Crumbed Crocodile, Avocado and Lemon Myrtle Mayonnaise with a Pickled Rosella Flower on the Side ($13.50) had a lukewarm reception in my group as there was little one could taste beyond the rice and avocado.

Kangaroo, Prawn and Ginger Gyoza with Black Vinegar and White Soy ($12) was something one either loved or hated as it as the ginger could not quite take away kangaroo’s gamey character.

Ai’s “Freaking Awesome” Fried Chicken with Vinegar and Shallot Dressing ($14.50) was good if not completely “freaking awesome”. The light, crispy crust was a tempura and southern-style hybrid that was well executed if somewhat salty. I did appreciate the acidity of the dressing as it balanced out the grease.

Wagyu Ribs Twice-Cooked in Native Flavours, Smokey Soy Caramel. Garlic, Chilli, Coriander and Sesame ($23) was the resounding disappointment of the evening. Tough as leather, it was not tenderly marbled but armoured in fat and gristle. Our first serve was pretty much a slab of fat and the replacement they kindly provided was little better. Being the only guy in my 4-person dinner group, I had quite a workout from all the sawing and dissecting.

Kara-age Crab Omelette with Garlic, Chilli, Soy and Ginger Dressing, Avocado, Shallots and Lime ($24) served to redeem the evening to some degree with a balance of crunch and chew; sweetness and tartness.

The meal was washed down with two sakes. Sweet and dry, warm and cold; both went well with pretty much everything. However, I knew I had one too many cadaver practicals when their crisp, sweet smell transiently reminded me of formaldehyde.

Wattle Seed Maccachino ($6.10) was apparently their signature drink so we had that in place of dessert.

Beautifully presented and possessing a rich, spicy aroma; I had to stop myself from ordering a second cup.

La Banette Patisserie

2011-06-03T19:48:00.003+10:00

La Banette Patisserie

18 Glebe Point Road, Glebe, NSW 2037

Tel: +6180959688

There is just one reason I’ll regret leaving my dingy little city apartment for on-campus accommodation in July: Glebe Point Road. I’ve been literally within a few hundred metres of one of Sydney’s most famous food districts for the past few months (and I have not explored it half as much as I should have). Of all the wonderful cafes and eateries, La Banette – and this gorgeous Fig Tart - will certainly be one of the hardest ones I’ll have to say goodbye to…

This is a nondescript hole in the wall that your nose leads you to rather than your eyes. A good part of that buttery, yeasty aroma wafting down the street comes from the Quiche Closet that always makes my eyes glaze in blissful indecision.

Seating is limited so I like to go early and order things as they come out of the oven and onto the counter; fresh Almond Croissants always leave me with a lasting grin.

The rows of seductive little cakes remind me of models lined up on a catwalk, every single one flamboyantly riveting.

On the other hand, Tarte au Citron draws one in with a comely elegance in that glossy sheen and citrus perfume.

If I wake up late, my brunch is never complete without Asparagus Quiche. Couched in a buttery crust are wonderfully tender, mildly bitter spears embedded in fluffy, savoury custard.

The classic Quiche Lorraine never disappoints with that feather-light custard saturated with decadent porky flavour.

A Danish from the massive array is ideal for a sweet finale.

Followed by a smooth, rich Piccolo Latté to sip on and watch the world go by.

Oh well, I guess I could always compromise by buying back a box of buttery bliss…

Adriano Zumbo

2011-05-24T13:26:00.006+10:00

Adriano Zumbo

296 Darling Street, Balmain, NSW 2040

Tel: +6198107318

Brace yourselves for some hardcore food porn as I take you on a brief visit to the Adriano Zumbo’s flagship store in Balmain, arguably Sydney’s definitive patisserie.

A 1 metre-wide corridor runs between the glass display of treats and a solid wall.

Be prepared to jostle past patrons gazing in wide-eyed wonder to place your order!

The amalgam of butter, caramelised sugar and layers of exotic flavouring agents was nothing short of spectacular.

It was honestly difficult to choose within the limits of our collective budget and appetite for everything looked so amazing.

The quirky array crammed into the tiny shop was pretty mind-boggling...

There was – to my surprise – quite a number of savoury things on display.

Not to mention staples like bread, so Zumbo certainly covers all the bases.

I, however, resisted the urge to be sidetracked and focused on my initial purpose: the sweet stuff.

Don the Pandan Man ($9) captures Zumbo’s passion for all things Southeast Asian with a robustly flavoured yet light pandan financier slipped into a sheath of coconut cream and yoghurt. Kaffir lime accents in the crispy base lingers subtly at the edge of one’s palate for a delightful finish.

Macrons ($2.30 each) are perhaps what Zumbo’s most famous for and we snatched at least one of each flavour available.

Black Sesame, Licorice and Lime has a crisp outer shell and chewy interior. The dominant, almost peppery Licorice makes for an interesting experience. A warning though, this is a confusing taste profile.

Pandan surprises with a subtle, transient hint of glutinous rice followed by banana before the full-bodied screw pine comes through.

Mint and Chestnut possesses a strong flavour that one either loves or hates, I loved it.

Satay illustrates how Australians have yet to realise peanut butter and lemongrass is no substitute for the real thing.

Chocolate has a beautiful bittersweetness and richness but comes across as too chewy and dense. Perhaps an attempt at mimicking fudge?

Vanilla has the best texture, perfectly blending crisp delicacy and melt-in-your-mouth chewy pliancy. A mildly salty buttercream base forms the perfect stage for rich but not overpowering vanilla from visible vanilla beans.

Japanese Mayonnaise is a risk that pays off in spades. Actual savoury mayonnaise at its centre juxtaposes the sweet shell for an undeniably pleasurable experience. The tiny smear of the stuff renderd it a little on the dry side though.

Coconut and Black Rice triggered an intense bout of nostalgia in me as it is the perfect occidental take on Pulot hitam; perfectly rich and salty-sweet.

Samsung Honeycomb and Gingerbread develops on the tongue, honeycomb first then lingering gingery warmth.

Tastevin

2011-05-10T18:15:00.001+10:00

Tastevin

Level 1 292 Victoria Street, Darlinghurst 2010

Tel: +61293563429

Tastevin is one of a multitude of chic eateries lining Victoria Street. The main draw factor would be unparalleled chill-out charm in addition to a lovely dessert selection.

You cannot go wrong with the classic Flambéed Grand Marnier crepe Suzette with Crème Fraiche Ice Cream ($13); sugary alcoholic decadence and honeyed citrus tones presented with a breathtaking pyrotechnic flourish.

Dark Chocolate Fondant with Lavender & Walnut Ice Cream ($15) never fails to satisfy between rich, bittersweet chocolate indulgence and ethereal floral notes intermingled with warm, rich nuttiness.

Lemon Tartlette with Fresh Blueberries & Raspberry Sorbet ($14) embodied delicious, vibrant fruity acidity as illustrated by its vibrant hues and glossy, smooth lemon curd.

I’ll definitely return to sample Twice Cooked Lamb Shoulder with Provencal Vegetables and Slow Roasted Pork Neck with Soused Apples, Chorizo and Shaved Fennel Slaw from this eatery's main menu…

Raquel’s Kitchen

2011-05-09T20:04:00.003+10:00

Raquel’s Kitchen

98 Oxford Street, Darlinghurst, NSW 2010

Tel: +61 9331 6806

As university work has piled on, I no longer have the time to fill pages with my latest exhilarating epicurean discovery. However, Sydney’s amalgam of cultures has resulted in a gastronomic treasure trove that I’ve been exploring over these past few weeks and it pains me not to be able to share it with you regularly.

I shall therefore strike a compromise with a stylistic shift: bite-sized nibbles as opposed to the former course-by-course accounts. I hope this will serve to tantalise, titillate and transport you. So without further ado, here’s my take on Spanish eatery Raquel’s Kitchen, as part of UNSW Foodlover’s $25 Let’s Explore Sydney Lunches (sometime back).

Raquel’s Kitchen is a cosy Spanish eatery just brimming with character like Oxford Street on which it lies.

The Amuse Bouche comprised little crostinis topped with a meat sauce that had luxuriously rich meaty depth and a saline punch that gave my taste buds (and salivary glands) a firm kick-start.

Patatas Bravas had its lovely spice balanced off by a rich, creamy and mildly sweet aioli.

Gambas al Ajillo comprised massive, wonderfully crunchy king prawns in a bubbling spice concentrate of chilli oil, garlic, paprika and saffron.

Pollo al Ajillo had a significantly milder and subtler flavour but was no less satisfying.

Croqueta de Jamon Y Pollo was the undisputed crowd-pleaser with its superb silky-buttery, ham-accented filling cradled in a crisp breadcrumb crust.

Churros con Chocolate rounded the light meal off in a classical fashion. Incredibly crunchy and not the least bit oily, they were divine with whipped cream and lashings of chocolate sauce.

Kazbah

2011-03-25T08:45:00.006+11:00

Kazbah

The Promenade, Harbourside Shopping Centre, Darling Harbour, Sydney

Kazbah is a delightful Moroccan eatery nestled in Darling Harbour with generously spiced food (a rare thing in Australia), a truly gorgeous view and an interior epitomising ethnic chic. For a special reason elucidated in the footnote, I had a feast of epic proportions for a mere $25.

Through a narrow walkway, one is transported from a shopping mall’s cacophony into an idyllic North African retreat. The restaurant design seamlessly blended the old-world charm of curvaceous hookahs in cosy corners and elegant ceramic tableware with a minimalist line-kitchen in plain sight. As strange as that might sound, it all came together quite beautifully.

I washed the meal down with Chai Yemeny Sweet Milk Tea, a light and mild spiced tea quite similar to Chai or Massala tea. I just adored my little metal-trimmed glass and dainty little filter.

Popular choices included Iced Mocha, pictured below…

and of course, Hot Chocolate on what was a particularly chilly and blustery day.

The brunch was communal and we started off with a selection of porridges. My firm favourite was the Warm Rice Pudding with Saffron Poached Pear, Cinnamon and Hazelnuts. Warm, comforting notes of saffron and cinnamon melded with rich nutty accents in the sweet, creamy pudding medium. The urge to lick my bowl was one I just barely resisted.

A close second was Date and Banana Porridge with Stewed Rhubarb which was every bit as healthy as it sounds but so much more delicious. That delightful banana character, all sugar and heady perfume; flowed out of generous chunks of the fruit and soaked into the thick, fudgy oats. A quenelle of mashed date perched on top added to the sugar quotient.

Rounding out the first course selection was Sweet Couscous with Nuts, Dried Fruit, Stewed Rhubarb and Cardamom Milk. Ever on the lookout for tasty morsels, I filched one of just two pieces of Turkish delight adorning the al dente grains and achieved my first sugar high of the day.

To balance all that richness, or to add nuanced spice, one could choose to add some tart rhubarb compote or cardamom milk. A bowl of brown sugar was also on hand for those with a sweet tooth.

Our plates were swiftly refreshed and I had the pleasure of having a colossal Mixed Grill thrust right in front of me. The massive platter was piled high with seductively spiced Merguez sausage, creamy and mild pan-fried Haloumi cheese, Hash Browns with velvety smooth potato puree beneath that lightly crisp skin, a decadent pile of bacon and a mound of sweet grilled tomatoes just acidic enough to counter all that artery-clogging.

An arm’s length away was another platter piled high with the Moroccan take on eggs Benedict, Eggs in Three Ways on Turkish Toast. The scrambled eggs were creamy and fluffy and the fried eggs were gone in a heartbeat but poached eggs will always remain my favourite style. Few things say brunch better than mopping up some oozy, runny yolk with thick slices of well-buttered bread.

Slipped beneath these platters were a variety of side dishes including Sautéed Mushrooms delicately herbed to bring out their earthy umami and finished with a dash of sweet balsamico.

Also to be found was the Moroccan take on Baked Beans, lima beans in a light sauce of tomatoes, onions and a generous pinch of Cayenne pepper.

In varying degrees of loosening belts and straining seams, we arrived at the main course. As we were expecting two different Tagines we were quite surprised to be looking at a pair of seemingly identical dishes.

The Eureka moment came in a whiff of spice and mouthwatering aromas as our waiter expertly agitated the pile of eggs to uncover the moist mince in our Tagine of Lamb with a mind-boggling ingredients list of Sucuk (a potently-flavoured spiced sausage), feta, spinach, roast capsicum, caramelised onions, roast tomatoes and eggs.

Piled high on warm Turkish bread slathered generously with butter, this was ecstacy. The combination of cumin and sumac in the sausage had bled out, impregnating that beautiful lamb and saturating the juicy vegetables. The layered mouthfeel of mealy meatiness, silky egg and juicy pulpiness was utter bliss as well.

The initial doppleganger, a Vegetable Tagine, was sweet in the way the lamb was savoury. It was certainly breathtaking to look at with its absolute riot of colour.

Slipped carefully onto soft Lebanese flatbread, the starchy sweetness of pumpkin resounded off the sharp brine of feta, refreshing spinach herbaceousness, rich egg as well as more sugar from caramelised onions and roasted bell peppers.

To finish off, we had a variety of thick semolina pancakes. Miraculously, I managed a thick slice of each despite my rapidly shrinking jeans; it was just that good. First on my plate was Strawberry Pancakes with Maple Syrup and Double Cream. It struck a fine balance between the tartness and sugar of the strawberries and that velvety richness of thick double cream.

That was followed by simple but no less pleasurable Banana Pancakes, served in an identical fashion. Once again, that sticky, aromatic sweetness of bananas took centre stage, couched by the mealy fluffiness of pancakes.

I truly left the best for last, unsure if I was worthy to touch the Chocolate and Raspberry Pancakes with Butterscotch Sauce and Chocolate Fudge Ice Cream. Its crowning scoop was really thick and chocolatey enough to be called chocolate sorbet, to my absolute delight. Oozing and soaking into the pancake as it melted, that chocolatiness melded with the buttery caramel of butterscotch sauce for the ultimate decadence. Buried in that fluffy pancake goodness were semi molten chocolate chips and raspberries that simply added to the resplendence of this piece de resistance.

Footnote:

How’s this for genius: a club that brings epicureans together so they can have lavish restaurant feasts at a vastly reduced price EVERY WEEK. Until my heart bypass thirty years from now, I cannot help but adore being part of UNSW Foodlovers!

Cupcake Bakery

2011-03-20T13:03:00.003+11:00

Cupcake Bakery

Shop 2 to 4, Lower Ground 2, Queen Victoria Building, Sydney

When faced with a truckload of assignments and lectures that go at a breakneck pace, the only legal thing that can keep me going is sugar. As such, for an after-class pick-me-up before I dive into my notes, Cupcake Bakery at Queen Victoria Building is a great port of call. Few things banish the college blues (without the price of a hangover) like a breathtaking tablescape of gorgeous cupcakes iced in psychedelic technicolour. Standard cupcakes go for $3.80 each.

I’ll start with my favourite, guaranteed to leave you with a grin on your face and not a care in the world… except perhaps your traumatized Islets of Langerhans. Sticky Date has a base of mildly salty, solidly dense, date-flavoured cake paying ample homage to the pudding that inspired it. Crowning that thickly is a decadent caramel fudge icing with highlights of coffee granting it seductive depth.

Gluten-Free Red Velvet is similarly dense if a bit on the dry side with its mild cocoa flavour. Clearly red food colouring is used instead of the traditional beetroot so those looking for punchy oomph will be mildly disappointed. However, the cream cheese frosting is deliciously creamy and surprisingly light; more than enough to satisfy this sugar junkie.

Finally, those with something more classical in mind should go for Vanilla Strawberry with a layer of thick, sweet and delicately tart strawberry jam oozing at its base as well as a massive, Mount-Everest-sized mound of smooth, vanilla, go-see-your-dentist frosting.

Hurricane’s Bar & Grill Bondi Beach

2011-03-13T20:39:00.007+11:00

Hurricane’s Bar & Grill Bondi Beach

Shop 8, 164 Campbell Parade, Bondi Beach, NSW

I cannot stop waxing lyrical about the amazing meat available in Australia. In particular, the ribs here are a world apart from any serratus anterior - porcine or bovine - ever to enter my mouth. My first post as a medical student here will likely disappoint cardiologists but Hurricane’s is home to my personal rib apotheosis and probably the first place I’d bring anyone who comes for a visit. Documented below is an amalgamation of two feasts I’ve had there, one dine-in and one from the adjacent take-way stand.

Only available if you dine in is the Herbed Roll ($4.50) and it alone justifies braving the meandering queue and forking out the service charge. The crunch of the crust as I tore the oven-warm loaf apart seemed composed specifically to make my mouth water and taste buds tingle in sweet anticipation. Next, the smell hit like a knockout punch, a divine combination of thyme and basil doing pirouettes around the base elements of yeast and butter. Finally, placing it in my mouth elicited a shiver of ecstacy at the gorgeous mouthfeel of crunchy crust and pillow-soft interior combined with a robust herbiness and olive oil richness.

Now, a visit to Hurricane’s is – by definition – only complete after a Full Rack of Hurricane’s Pork Ribs ($36 dine-in or $29.50 take-away). The meat set the standard for balancing fall-off–the-bone-tender with sink-your-teeth-in meaty bite for that perfect rib texture. However, the magic was in the basting fluid imbuing the meat with a smoky perfume and rich, caramelised sweetness balanced with a hint of tartness that couched the porcine meatiness beautifully.

Against the gastronomical epiphany I just mentioned, the Full Rack of Hurricane’s Beef Ribs ($29.50 take-away) was no contender. On its own, the beef might have been pretty good but next to the pork it came across as chewy, tough and difficult to eat. The bones popped right out of their meaty sheath to leave you with a huge, steaming, man-sized hunk of cow that even plastic cutlery stood no chance against. That – to me – detracted from the quintessential experience of tearing meat off the bone with your teeth.

You have to get Chips ($3 take-away) to go with your ribs as these lightly salted, thick-cut fries are absolutely perfect to soak up all the delicious drippings. The mealy potato magically absorbs all that meaty character when swirled around vigorously and emerging covered in a sticky, glistening coat of pork juice.

If – for some inexplicable reason - you don’t want to get your hands messy, the Hurricane’s Beef Burger ($13 take-away) is a good bet. The massive patty weighs in at a quarter-kilogram of solid chuck beef and literally dwarfs the bun, not something you see everyday. It was remarkably moist for such a huge amount of meat and was probably grilled slowly under low heat - by grilling standards anyway - as it was evenly medium despite the considerable thickness.

Fatlittleboy's Last Singaporean Lunar New Year

2011-02-05T16:48:00.007+11:00

The eve of Chinese New Year typically involves a crazy amount of cooking and my last lunar new year in Singapore was no exception.

Chinese Three–Layered Roast Pork (aka Siew Yok)

1 kg Pork belly, skin-on
1 tbsp salt
2 tbsp white vinegar
1 cube fermented red bean curd
1 tbsp Chinese 5-spice powder
1 tbsp white pepper
1 tbsp salt
1 tbsp sugar
2 tbsp plum blossom rice wine

1. Combine bean curd, 5-spice powder, pepper, salt, sugar and wine and rub onto meat side of pork
2. Leave in refrigerator overnight
3. Dry meat as much as possible with kitchen towels and a hair dryer if you’ve one on hand, hanging it for a while helps too
4. Rub salt onto the skin to wick away the remaining moisture
5. Slice parallel furrows an inch apart through skin and into the subcutaneous fat; this will help prevent the skin fracturing and ease chopping later
6. Place on a rack over a dripping tray in a fan-forced oven at 200C for 20 minutes
7. Remove from oven and dry any rendered fat oozing through the furrows
8. Brush vinegar onto skin and return to the oven for a further 25 minutes till it just starts to char
9. Chop – do not slice – into bite-sized morsels

Just check out those gorgeously distinct layers.

Chestnut Tart

Tart Base

Refer to previous entry for basic shortcrust

Crème de Marron Filling

500g Chestnuts, shelled and with brown membranes removed
200g Sugar
150ml Water
1 tsp Vanilla Extract

1. Place chestnuts into a pot of water and bring to boil
2. Transfer to a slow cooker and leave on high for 5 hours until soft
3. Drain and puree into a rough paste
4. Bring sugar, vanilla and water to boil for about two minutes, forming syrup
5. Add chestnut puree to the syrup and stir in, remove from heat
6. Whip – preferably with an electric whisk – to achieve a smooth paste

This tart can be dressed up in many ways as the chestnut puree cools hard and strong, providing the perfect base for icing sugar stenciling.

Alternatively, pipe whipped cream onto little tartlets, use an electric whisk to beat heavy cream in bowl nestled in a bed of crushed ice and salt for a chemical free alternative to the spray-can sort.

Drizzle in some chocolate sauce halfway through the whipping for something really decadent.

Candied Gingko Nuts and Yam

This recipe is sort of a family secret so I can’t really reveal it; my Lunar New Year is really incomplete without it though.

It’s backbreaking work to extract the bitter stems from the nuts but the end result is completely worth it.

Les Amis

2011-01-30T03:30:00.005+11:00

Les Amis – 1 Scotts Road, #02-14/16, Shaw Centre, Singapore

In the third and final installment of Fatlittleboy’s Singapore grand finale, I visited Les Amis. The Les Amis group is synonymous with fine food in Singapore and the eatery that started it all has garnered a long list of accolades dating as far back as 1995. More recent achievements include The Miele Guide Asia’s 5^th (2009) and 11^th (2010) Best Restaurant as well as ranking 60^th (2009) and 78^th (2010) on the Restaurant Magazine UK’s World’s Top 100 Restaurants.

The service was among the best I’ve experienced with a perfect balance of warmth and professionalism. The wait staff really knows its material, volunteering recommendations and painting an almost poetic picture of your order as it arrives. One waiter blew me away by giving me a brief history of the culinary use of the Maitake mushrooms I asked about. Set lunches come in two forms, a 3-course (1 appetizer, 1 main, 1 dessert) for $60++ and a 4 course (2 appetizer, 1 main, 1 dessert) for $80++. My substituting to include two of the chef’s signatures resulted in my lunch for two amounting to $364.87.

The Wholemeal, White and Sourdough Breads with Bavarian Sweet Mustard Butter and Butter were exceptional. I adored the warm, olive-studded sourdough with unsalted butter as the rich flavour and brininess of the olives remained in perfect focus. What stole the show – however – was the lovely mustard butter. The combination of sugar and butter is crucial to baking but I never thought sugary butter could be so good on its own, especially when balanced by the subtle acidity of mustard.

Scottish Salmon Tarte Flambé was served compliments of the chef. A play on the traditional Alsatian flatbread, it substituted crème fraîche, onions and bacon with the lighter flavours of raw salmon, a sprinkling of salt and a hint of truffle oil. I clean forgot my camera when these treats arrived so here’s stock picture from the Les Amis site.

My starters were both chef signatures and seemed to have a marked Singaporean influence that began with Lightly Smoked Eel Tiede with Crispy Pork Crouton, Horseradish and Dijon Mustard Emulsion. Who knew that the delicate, tender chew of rich smoked eel and a crispy pork-infused wafer could perfectly replicate the mouthfeel and flavour profile of siew yoke, Chinese crisp-roasted fatty pork? Well it does, especially with sinus-clearing horseradish-mustard sauce on the side as I’ve always eaten the stuff with Coleman’s mustard. This dish takes gastronomic deconstruction to a whole new plane, transcending the usual rehashed alternate assembly of the same elements and instead sourcing near-identical flavour from the unlikeliest of sources. Absolute genius.

My second starter was not even on the lunch menu but they obliged – at a supplement of course – and I got to experience my second delicious mind-screw of the day. Shocking but true, the Homemade Pasta with Japanese Shrimp and Black Périgord Truffles ($20) perfectly emulated Hokkien Prawn Noodles. The noodles were cooked soft - beyond the al dente of the other pasta we ordered - to become an occidental doppelganger of yellow noodles. The pool of liquid that the mound of pasta rested in was a potent shrimp stock with that trademark combination of crustacean sweetness and umami found in its Hawker Centre muse. Of course there were a few additional bells and whistles thrown in, like the crunchy tiny shrimp usually encountered in Asian shrimp crackers. However, the black truffles were wasted in my opinion as their flavour was completely overpowered; perhaps sambal belacan instead?

My dining partner opted for Marinated Winter Vegetable Salad with Melba Toast and Fennel Pollen Vinaigrette which was good though not quite as groundbreaking as the other dishes. The mix of crisp fresh vegetables and soft boiled ones made for an interesting mouthfeel while the melba toast-wafer was a pleasant alternative to typical croutons, albeit a little oily.

She continued with a second starter of Homemade Smokey Mushroom Pasta with Japanese Snow Crab and Spring Onion that was a mixture of hits and misses. The sweet if chewy crab leg would have been better if it was not nestled in a fishy foam or espuma of some sort. The combination of mushrooms and a sweet seafood stock was a winner though, slurped up with good al dente noodles.

We opted for another chef signature for our main, at a sizable supplement. Our Baby Monkfish on the Bone with Maitake Mushrooms, Lettuce and Caper-Lime Jus ($170, serves two) was served with much flourish. Brought to our table whole, it was sliced and served before our eyes.

This was my first taste of famed monkfish and I found that the tail flesh indeed lives up to its reputation of having a texture similar to lobster; though I’d say with a suggestion of firm fish like snapper. It had little inherent character though, relying on the caper sauce for oomph.

I was a little underwhelmed until I had my first taste of the toasted Maitake mushroom. The tender folds of flesh had a subtle earthy perfume with near-floral notes, infinitely more refined and delicate than the heady aroma of truffles. The waiter obliged with a little history lesson about its roots as a medicinal agent in ancient china.

Also dissected for us were monkfish cheeks, the choicest portion of the undeniably ugly fish with a texture firmer than the tail flesh. With a leaf of crisp baby romaine, a clove of bittersweet, wonderfully aromatic roast garlic, a chunk of meaty Maitake and caper sauce, it was phenomenal.

Our desserts promised another display of creativity, as evinced in my Pickled Hawaiian Papaya with Frozen Curry, Yogurt, Ginger and Lime; breathtakingly presented and in a manner that made it hard to tell what was what. I deliberated a fair while before nibbling a little white stuff that turned out to be a sugar confection similar to honey comb, tangy with the citrus punch of lime. Emboldened, I ventured into the blocks of gradually melting yellow stuff that revealed itself as turmeric frozen yogurt; good but quite odd. The orange discs of pickled papaya were quite pungent and the dots of yogurt had a beautifully strong ginger heat; not quite designed to be eaten on their own. Finally, after a lot of deft work, I maneuvered all the elements into a single spoon and was rewarded with a veritable explosion of flavour and texture.

My dining partner selected Char-Grilled Ciku with Palm Sugar and Thyme; the embodiment of warm, sweet tropical flavour. The first thing to hit us was the intense aroma from the caramelized ciku; the fruit’s naturally strong perfume gathers still more depth and character when the abundant sugars brown. As though dissatisfied with the beautifully nuanced palm sugar ice cream he created, the chef included chunks of the raw stuff to be sure. Definitely one for those with a sweet tooth.

To finish off, we had petit fours of Lemon Madeleines and Chocolate Fudge. Dainty and elegant, the madeleines were buttery, fluffy and sweet with a subtle lemon fragrance. On the other hand, the pistachio-studded fudge proved robust, it was very dense, very chewy and very, very sweet.

Iggy's

2011-01-21T12:25:00.003+11:00

Iggy’s – Level 3, The Hilton Hotel, 581 Orchard Road, Singapore

Food is a very subjective area so simultaneously being The Miele Guide Asia’s Number One Restaurant (2010/11) and making it onto the S. Pellegrino list of the World's 50 Best Restaurants (2010) is about as close to objective excellence as Iggy's could possibly get.

I not only scored a lunch reservation for two at the Singapore Hilton's crown jewel but also no less than ringside bar seats at the open-concept patissier section. It would not be an exaggeration to describe restauranteur extraordinaire Ignatius Chan's fusion cuisine as a tingly, fuzzily pleasurable dream-like experience. It is profusion of flavours one struggles to sort and place amid a near-constant state of delirious ecstasy; sort of like being a gastronomic Alice in Wonderland. It did come at an equally surreal bill of $282.48 for two though.

I thoroughly enjoyed the Ceviche of Kiname with Ankimo Sauce and Ostrecia Caviar. The pleasantly pungent ceviche was amazing with the punchy flavour of the monkfish liver sauce while what appeared to be a half-cooked potato sliver was an ingenious and effective base for the marine brininess of the caviar.

At first, the amuse bouche of Eggplant Garlic Bread with Parmesan & Salt Smoked Butter actually looked disappointingly mundane. Even the bread itself had a simple crusty chew that was pleasant but did not set off any fireworks. However - like a sprinkling of fairy dust - the smoked butter made my eyes widen in amazement. The sweet butter base made a bold, gorgeously potent smokiness pop; that being the dominant flavour instead of a more subdued yet still distinct garlic accent. The occasional salt crystal provided just the hint of saline tang needed.

My first course was Duck Confit with Yukon Gold Potato, Mache and Alba Black Truffle which left me unsure of where to start with the numerous discs of black truffle littering it. The meat was superbly soft and not overly salty the way confits tend to be. Nevertheless, that truffle earthiness still went best with the potato purée. So sweet, silky smooth and creamy yet not in any way gummy, I initially mistook it for some sort of cream sauce; with a sliver of black truffle, it was a truffled mash unlike any I've had before.

My dining partner opted for the Kohada with Tomato, Clementine, Mango, Quinoa and Beet instead which had a creative blend of flavours from nutty quinoa, sweet beetroot and tart mango. Her only lament was that the raw fish was quite fishy.

My second course continued with more truffle decadence, this time the even more luxurious white variety; Spaghettini with Poultry Jus and Alba White Truffle Shavings. If I had to describe the Spaghettini in a single word, it would be intense. The jus was so incredibly concentrated that its wonderful umaminess had a mildly bitter edge, going magnificently with that heady truffle perfume. The noodles added a hint of bite and body to a dish that gives one an idea of what pure flavour might be. The three grams of Alba White Truffle came at a $45++ supplement.

My dining partner's second course was equally decadent; Gnocchi with Truffle Salsa and Poached Egg. The truffle salsa was lumpy with what appeared to be coarsely minced black truffle; it likely was if the generous earthy flavour was any guide. A mouthful of tiny, pliantly chewy gnocchi dripping with that rich, aromatic mush indemnified any unceremoniousness that came with piercing the poached egg and stirring that rich yellow goop into the thick mess.

My main course of Lamb with Baba Ganoush and Cornbread seemed like four dishes in one as I had the excruciating pleasure of choosing between savouring the meltingly tender meat nude, coated with sweet and crisp cornmeal, dabbed with creamy baba ganoush or with a pungent clove of roasted garlic.

My dining partner's main was a dramatically presented John Dory with Asparagus and Watermelon Radish. The flaky fish was coated in a deliciously crispy spicy Cajun batter to which smooth, creamy asparagus purée provided a juxtaposition of flavour and texture.

Her dessert of Soursop with Baby Tomato, Cherry and Mascarpone that followed was the ideal fruity, tangy, palate-cleansing close to the meal. The acidic sorbet went remarkably with the dense, sweet cake while the paper-thin sheet of crystallized watermelon sugar provided clean, fruity flavour in addition to aesthetic appeal.

My dessert of Cinnamon Ice Cream with Textures of Chocolate & Mandarin was breathtakingly assembled before our eyes at the bar. I have always adored pairing rich dark chocolate with refreshing citrus perfume but the added smoky spice of cinnamon transports things to an entirely different plane.

The mouthfeel of four different textures of chocolate was unlike anything I experienced before; velvety mousse, chewy brownie, coarse cookie rubble and the glorious snap of dark chocolate all in a single mouthful. The last was only possible through meticulous monitoring of the chocolate as it was tempered; with a nifty thermo-gun.

As a side point, I just adore their Coffee ($6) mugs.

Garibaldi

2011-01-13T14:08:00.003+11:00

As Fatlittleboy nears its 10,000^th page view and as my time in Singapore draws to a close, I shall piece together a grand finale of sorts. Lined up over the next few weeks is a selection of Singapore’s definitive fine-dining establishments. These are the big players found in the Miele Guide and on the S. Pellegrino list, offering up ultimate decadence at – some might say – ultimate prices.

The scrimping and saving of military pittance wouldn’t have funded me through the door so a huge “thank you” must be given to my parents for an extremely generous and undeserved allowance as well as dining companions/financiers upon whose appetite and benevolence this was all possible.

Garibaldi – 36 Purvis Street #01-02, Singapore 188613

This 7-year-old eatery is one of the most decorated around, ranking 7^th in the Miele Guide of Asia’s Finest Restaurants 2008/2009, bagging both Restaurant AND Restauranteur (Chef Roberto Galetti) of the Year at the 2009 World Gourmet Summit as well as making it to both Singapore Tatler’s and Wine & Dine Magazine’s lists of top restaurants for 6 consecutive years. That’s just an excerpt from the lengthy list, mind you.

From my perspective, I found the food every bit as sensational as one could possibly expect and huddling in a comfy chair amidst diffused lighting on a drizzly day certainly scored for cozy ambience; but it was the spectacular service that really transported things. My agnolotti bordered on gastronomic nirvana yet it is the warm conversation and cheery smile of my waitress that would make me remember Garibaldi the next time I’m in town. An extravagant lunch with a full-blown seasonal degustation* for two and a 6-course a la carte selection for one amounted to $514.35.

The Sundried Tomato Foccacia amuse bouche was served hot enough to make you feel pleasantly warmed yet cool enough to be comfortably handled. What I remember the most was the mouth feel of remarkable crustiness and moist fluffiness in each bite without a gradient in between, this more so than the safe, classical flavour profile.

Pio Tosini Parma Ham Prosciutto with Traditional Romagna Fried Dough ($25) wowed with the subtle pungency and robust porcine character of aged, dry-cured, spiced Italian ham sourced from an artisanal curing company with a 105 year history.

On top of that, one wraps the ham around crisp, buttery hollow dough puffs that were warm and sweet to juxtapose the meat’s cool saltiness.

It is not humanly possible to turn down Wagyu Beef Carpaccio with Parmigiano Cheese and Rocket Salad ($28), no offence to vegetarians. I daresay Carpaccio is the ultimate way to enjoy quality beef – flavours are most potent when enjoyed in the raw – especially wrapped around a shaving of sweet-salty Parmigiano and a forkful of astringent rocket.

Course one of the Menu Stagionale ($138) was a single Coffin Bay Oyster with Caviar and I appreciated how the incredibly creamy yet subtly-flavoured Australian Pacific variety formed the perfect decadent yet subdued platform for the marine salinity of black gold to take the spotlight.

The Pan Seared Hokkaido Scallop with Caponata & Liquorice that followed was another treat. I have yet to get over the magic of Hokkaido scallops since my brush with Absinthe’s Carpaccio of them that I savoured in July and this dish served to ignite rather than diminish my fascination. Firm and meaty with a crisp outer sear and a sweet, yieldingly chewy interior, I sliced off tiny fractions to make the shellfish last as long as possible; which still was a flash. The thick, stew-like vegetable caponata accompanying the scallops was brilliantly refreshing with its vibrant, sweet-sour mixture of tomato and aubergine too.

The Pumpkin soup with Truffle Mascarpone Cheese intrigued me as you sort of assemble your own truffled cream of pumpkin by stirring together the globules of aromatic truffle oil and creamy mascarpone suspended in the smooth pumpkin puree. The end result was sweet, smooth and brimming with that wonderful pungent earthiness I love about truffles.

As a comparison, the a la carte Soup of the Day ($16) was a lovely carrot soup with crab. Suffused with sweet crustacean flavour, it was incredibly aromatic and the tender crab provided a hint of bite to the smooth puree.

Course number four of the seasonal menu was perhaps my favourite of the lot, Ox-Tail Beef Agnolotti with Celery Root Purea & Pistachio. I have always liked stuffed pasta but while more common raviolis are filled with a paste of ricotta or a puree of pumpkin, Agnolotti takes things a step further with a fully solid filling; slivers of tender ox-tail in this case. The bold flavour of the meat was matched with a gorgeous herby, classical browned butter with sage. One particular agnolotti crowned with a sage leaf (visible below) was a veritable explosion of flavour on my tongue that left my taste buds in delicious shell shock.

After the splendour of the agnolotti, the dramatically presented Pan Fried Jumbo Prawns with San Marzano Tomatoes and Orange did not shine quite so brightly. The famed sauce tomatoes did make for a spectacular, rich sweetness in the gravy but I found the enormous, meaty shrimp a tad overdone. Still it was good, very good.

The Roasted Australian Lamb Rack with Caramelized Pearl Onion & Mustard Sauce was truly a work of carnivorous art; I paused for a long moment to revel in that wonderful aroma and breathtaking sight before tucking in with gusto. Pink, juicy and packing meaty, ovine punch; medium rare is lamb enjoyed at its prime state to me. The side of caramelized shallots was downright dreamy with a sugary sweetness worthy of dessert status.

The a la carte selection made at the table was for First Grade Angus Beef Tenderloin with Potato Gratin and Red Wine Sauce ($48). My dining companion ordered his tenderloin done medium well but it still managed to be superbly tender and moist, I was in awe. The halo of sweet carrot balls and crunchy zucchini lumps around the glorious hunk of beast certainly made for a pretty picture. Would I be wrong to think that Chef Roberto Galetti serves up authentic Italian fare with the aesthetic finesse normally found in the French?

My dessert was a Rhubarb Tart Amaretti and Chocolate Coulis that was certainly pleasing if not groundbreaking. I loved the tangy chunk of rhubarb I unearthed within that soft almond cookie as much as the wonderfully tart sorbet crowning it. The chocolate coulis was good on its own but seemed at odds with the other components to me.

The dessert my companion chose a la carte was a Lava Cake that was certainly good as he’s quite a connoisseur of this confection and it’s his standard order here.

* A second degustation menu's also available for $98++ but it was much more tame.

Scratchley's

2011-01-11T01:08:00.001+11:00

Scratchley’s – 200 Wharf Road, Newcastle, New South Wales

Newcastle is a mere two hours drive away from Sydney and offers a great escape with some beautiful beaches and sensational seafood. One place that a visit to Newcastle is not complete without a meal at is Scratchley’s. A veritable institution located right on the water, it offers a stunning view of the harbour, if you can spare a moment to look up from your plate that is.

The seafood was spectacular even though my visit during the Christmas – New Year period meant that I didn’t get a chance to try out the famed “Specials”, an ever-changing menu available during off-peak periods which is constructed according to the seasonal fish hauled in. A lunch for five amounted to $285, complete with drinks all round.

I started out with Scratchley’s Famous Char-grilled Antipasto ($19); this appetiser portion is conveniently half the size and price of having it as a main. Every single marine critter was done complete justice despite the immense variety on my plate; each one was grilled its individual point of perfection balancing flavourful char and springy softness or delicate flakiness where appropriate. The squid was likely the best I’ve ever had with a yielding chew and a remarkable sweetness I had never tasted in squid before. However, it was ultimately the plump, juicy baby octopus accentuated by a robust, coarse basil-almond pesto that stole the show completely and which continues to defy adequate description.

Another starter popular at our table was the Scratchley’s Seafood Chowder ($15) with a masterfully executed classical Velouté base of light stock thickened with blond roux. Smooth and adequately yet not overpoweringly flavoured, it set a new standard that typically lumpy, over-thickened and starchy chowders fall far short of. A solid combination of vegetables like carrots, corn kernels and scallions supported the sweet shrimp, pliantly chewy octopus and tender fish, all chopped into bits that were large enough to be distinguished on the tongue yet small enough so as not to detract from the velvety smooth feel.

The Garlic King Prawns Sautéed in Garlic, Shallot, White Wine and Cream Sauce with Steamed Basmati Rice ($19) was quite breathtaking with that gorgeously glossy sauce napping the massive prawns and gradually soaking into fluffy grains.

Both the Garlic Bread ($5) and Herb & Cheese Bread ($5) were pillow-soft and extremely fluffy. A mere half-centimeter layer of flavouring agent on the surface of the bread provided all the punch and character necessary. This allowed both bread and spread to harmonise but remain distinct, thus avoiding the typical soggy saturatedness or rock-hard crispness found in most flavoured breads.

My Red Emperor Fillet Dusted in Cajun Spices on Smashed Kipfler Potatoes with Char-Grilled Balsamic Vegetables, Carrot & Ginger Raitha and Sweet Potato Curls ($38) was every bit as spectacular as that wonderfully detailed description promised. Firm and moist, it was fragrantly spiced yet subtly enough that the natural flavour of the supremely fresh fish was not overwhelmed but further accentuated by a creamy, tangy raitha sauce. The coarse mash had a mind-boggling array of flavour and texture from sweet pepper to salty zucchini and mealy potato, all perfumed with a generous amount of thyme.

I couldn’t cross-examine my fellow diners for their opinions on their own mains but I think the pictures alone will suffice as more than adequate descriptions!

Blue Eye Cod Fillet Roasted in Thai Flavours with a Corn & Coriander Crust on Saffron & Lime Basmati Pilaf and Green Curry Coconut Sauce ($35).

Snapper Fillet Roasted in Lemon, Garlic & Thyme on a Salad of Black Lentils, Preserved Lemon, Pine Nuts & Coriander with Coconut Yoghurt Dressing ($38).

Tender Calamari Golden-Fried with Real Tartare Sauce & Lemon ($32).

2011 Teaser

2011-01-02T02:45:00.005+11:00

2011 Teaser

Happy New Year! The Fatlittleboy’s officially shifting to Sydney, Australia come February so the highlights of my past 2 weeks spent there should be a good sampling of the sort of things you can hope to expect in 2011. Enjoy!

Beachside Bites

Coogee Yeeros – 204-206 Arden St., Coogee Beach, NSW

Just check out that cake stand!

On an unseasonably blustery day smack in the middle of summer, a cup of smooth, rich Hot Chocolate is all you need to feel warmed to your fingertips and in need of a good snooze.

Mars Bar Cheesecake was the waitress’ exuberant recommendation. Yes, those are actual candy bar slivers on top.

Lemon Meringue Pie, who can resist such a massive crown of meringue. It looks a million times bigger with it in front of you and a fork in hand.

Apple Crumble, served a la mode.

Triple Chocolate Mud Cake, all warm and oozy.

Chish & Fips, will definitely visit for that name alone if nothing else.

Garlo’s Pies, this chain opens till late so you can have a pie – or six – after a day at the beach or a night out partying.

Moo, the cow demands I eat it.

The lanes along Sydney beaches like Coogee and Bondi are just filled with rows upon rows of cafés and restaurants; it would probably take years to try them all.

Cafés, Pubs & Bar Bites

Lotus – 50 Glebe Road, The Junction, NSW

Brownie with Pistachio Ice Cream and most of the desserts I encountered throughout my trip came as truly huge portions, something I can definitely get used to. The wonderful dark chocolate fudge sauce had a touch of salt to make it pop while the brownie was robust, dense and moist. A teeny disappointment came only in the pistachio ice cream as its flavour was very subdued and it just seemed creamy above all else. Still, it was a more than adequate foil for the beautiful brownie.

The Pumphouse – 17 Pier Street, Darling Harbour, NSW

The Pumphouse Burger ($24) served with onion rings and aioli is a mammoth burger constructed of a solid 220g patty, gruyere, pancetta, confit onions and beetroot chutney. It would have been terrific if it were not underseasoned. Kumara fries were also sadly unavailable that day but the regular thick-cut ones were good too.

Pumphouse Thunderbolt Strong Ale ($7.50) is a must try as you can’t get it anywhere else. Sweet and fruity, it is mellow and of medium strength.

Asian Food, Aussie Style

Emerald Gardens – Wests New Lambton, 88 Hobart Road, New Lambton, NSW

Mongolian Lamb, it’s so tender and possesses ovinity rendered imperceptible by a gorgeous marinade that it tastes closer to beef.

Ginger Beef, served sizzling on a hot plate rather than simply stir fried with greens.

Special Fried Rice, as close as one can get to my favourite yang chow “flied lice” down under. Yum!

Mucho’s

2011-01-01T00:56:00.003+11:00

Mucho’s – Shop 9/50 Glebe Road, The Junction, Eastpoint, Newcastle

I think I’ve made it pretty clear how much I adore Mexican cuisine on several occasions now, and the fact that Mexican food is so hard to find back in Singapore just makes a good Mexican meal that much more special to me. As such, I was elated to discover my sister’s new in-laws counted this eatery as their firm favourite; despite the innumerable pie shops and gorgeous seafood available in their native Newcastle. I certainly know why after having dinner there, the selection is a mind-boggling and everything is nothing short of fantastic.

We started off with a Combination Dip ($20.90) of chili con queso that was thick with a rich kidney bean mash, frijole that achieved a delicious balance of richness and tanginess as well as an incredibly smooth and rich guacamole. The avocados here are truly as plentiful as they are beautiful, making perfect guacamole possible. Each dip came in its own cup-shaped nacho which went to whoever reacted first once the nachos were polished off.

All is not lost if one cannot decide between each of the individual mains like I was. Combinations are available which merge smaller portions of different dishes for greater variety. Feeling carnivorous as usual, I opted for Combination 60 ($20.90) which let me try not only the beef tostada and beef taco but a beef and cheese enchilada as well, all on a bed of fluffy rice. The enchilada should be polished off immediately before it turns soggy and with its sheath of cheese still semi-molten, pulling apart in gooey strands to reveal a moist interior of artfully spiced shredded beef – no mince here - in a fog of beef juice steam. The crunchy beef taco was overflowing with more of that wonderfully spiced shredded beef, flamboyant yet not overpowering the intrinsic flavour of the meat it locked in a delicious dance on your palate. The tostada was the most subdued of the lot in terms of flavour, wowing instead with the variety of textures from crunchy corn-chip shell to crisp lettuce, grainy shredded cheese and yielding strands of beef.

Another to look out for is the Combination 62 ($20.50) for it includes the beef chimichanga in addition to a chili con carne and rice. Easily the star of the menu, the chimichangas have so much flavour in such a crisp little parcel; it’s like having a bomb going off in your mouth with each bite. The fried tortilla was light and crunchy, the complete opposite of the weighty, hearty beef and cheese filling.

I could not resist a Classic Margarita ($9.90) to wash all that deliciousness down. Generously tart and refreshing, it had wonderfully smooth and fine ice crystals that melted so readily in my mouth I never detected the brainfreeze till it hit me. I appreciated that it was not sweet at all for I can rarely make it through the sugar-syrup laden concoctions commonly found in pubs and bars.

The Watermelon Margarita ($9.90) was not quite as wonderful though. Lacking the citrus pizzaz, it came across as somewhat flat-tasting after the spunky lime. Much, much sweeter besides; I came to the conclusion that this subtly-flavoured fruit is still best eaten in its naturally occurring form.

Salt

2010-12-25T19:15:00.004+11:00

Salt – 2/5 Nash Street, Rosalie Village, Paddington, Brisbane

Whenever my sister comes home from the holidays, she never fails to wax lyrical about this place. Since my parents went down to visit her, they’ve been raving about it too. Now that I’m finally in Brisbane, I had to make a point to pay Salt a visit. Breakfast is apparently the best meal to sign yourself up for – I certainly have no complaints – so rouse yourself and make your way down before noon. My table of 4 racked up a bill of $92.10.

I started off with a Skinny Hot Chocolate ($4.50) which left me wide-eyed when it arrived as a three-piece set; a shot of thick molten chocolate, creamy white chocolate buttons and a massive bowl of steamed milk that required two hands to wrap around as it had no handle. As you might guess, one mixes it according to one’s preference so I went for just a neat shot of dark chocolate in the milk, choosing to nibble on the buttons. While it might have been empirically good, the involvement it called for elevated my bowl of chocolate to a near-magical experience.

Continuing the theme of playing with preconceptions, the unassuming-sounding Iced Coffee ($4) turned out to be an affogato with generous blobs of creamy vanilla ice cream giving the rich, smooth coffee a flavourful kick.

Truffled Mushrooms with Scrambled Eggs ($17.90) were the perfect morning indulgence. Meaty sautéed shitake mushrooms crowned a crusty slice of fluffy white bread impregnated with the earthy perfume of truffle paste and rich, fruity note of olive oil. Instead of simply using their namesake, Salt craftily relied on the brininess from several rashers of beautiful bacon to make up the saline quotient. Very effective and very flavourful.

The Duo of Sausage ($21.90) comprised a pork & fennel banger paired with a spicier Moroccan lamb sausage and a side of white bean mash. The sausages were both wonderful with a delicate spice accentuating the respective porcine and ovine traits of the meat. I found the lamb sausage particularly commendable in that respect for the spices did not overpower the meat as in the case of most lamb forcemeats. The white bean mash was hearty and rustic, a wonderfully comforting foil to the rich sausages.

If I had one last visit, the Potato Galette ($16.90) would be my most likely order. The wonderful herbed galette was fluffy and light with a delicate crisp and soft mealiness reminiscent of a hash brown. Hand-made, it was smooth, creamy and sweet. If that were not enticing enough, the side of honeyed bacon is to die for with its crispy caramelized crust, the mere thought of it leaves me salivating. To finish, one mops up the yolk of poached eggs and sweet red onion jam with fingers of toasted Turkish pide that were gorgeously griddle-crisped on two sides and chewily absorbent on the inside.

My Roast Beef Omelette ($16.90) was good if a tad less sensational than the other offerings. I was told cream cheese added richness and creaminess to the extremely fluffy egg mixture and slicing through it was like opening a treasure chest. The interior was overflowing with huge thin slices of roast beef, tangy mustard, scallions and sprigs of rocket all glued together with creamy hunks of molten brie. Be sure to soak up the thick, slightly tart and richly beefy jus with more fingers of pide and finally cleanse your palette with the mound of sweet tomato chutney sitting atop it all.

A side order that I highly recommend is the Caramelised Balsamic Vinegar with Garlic ($4.50). Thick, syrupy and glossy, the balsamico was generously sweet and possessed immense depth when reduced and caramelized in this manner. It went deliciously with pretty much everything we ordered and be sure to fish out a clove of creamy roasted garlic before they’re all gone.

Regatta Boatshed

2010-12-23T21:57:00.007+11:00

Regatta Boatshed – 543 Coronation Drive, Regatta Hotel, Toowong, Queensland

My favourite SAT question: Worshippers are to temple as carnivores are to… STEAKHOUSE! There is something about a gorgeously browned-on-the-outside, rosy-on-the-inside hunk of cow, positively oozing with juice and flavour that pleases on such a fundamental level.

In the suburb where I currently am, the Boatshed Restaurant at the Regatta Hotel is the place to beat when it comes to steak. Dinner for 7 with dessert and a good bottle of wine amounted to just $363.70.

You know you’re in for a good steak when the cuts of meat are on display for all to see. I contemplated skipping the menu and picking my cut right from the display.

We started off with a Corn and Seomlina Cob Loaf ($8) with three dips. The chewy, sweet bread was wonderfully neutral and absorbent, a great vector for the three tantalizing accompaniments. I enjoyed the subtle Indian influences on the tomato dip flavoured with coriander while the smooth, vividly-hued beetroot puree was punchy, sweet and tangy. I didn’t get to try much of the olive oil and dukkah for the mixture of crushed nuts and seeds including cumin, bay and crushed garlic vanished almost immediately, it was that good.

The gorgeous Balsamic Glaze Brochette Bread ($9) did not last long either. Soft and pillowy, it was a veritable sponge for the olive oil and balsamico it was drizzled with. The juicy tomatoes were wonderful though more basil would’ve made them pop.

There were steaks all round and I only resisted the urge to shed all social decorum and run around snapping pictures of everybody else’s because the aroma wafting from my 300g Eye Fillet Steak – Medium Rare ($30.90) had me in its seductive embrace. The first thing that struck me as I sliced through my gorgeously tender steak was how thick it was – about 2 full inches – and how it managed to be cooked just right despite that. A beautiful sear left it with just the right amount of sharp smokiness while the rosy hue within meant a bite that resisted just a little before parting to your teeth, absolute perfection.

The sides I chose were not to be trifled with either, commanding attention all by themselves. My Double Cream Truffle Mash was every bit as decadent as it sounds. Luxuriously smooth without being gummy, generously laced with truffle flavour, rich and creamy, it did not even need the fantastic Veal Jus perfumed with bay, rosemary and thyme that I compulsively tipped over it. I went so far as to separate it into two mounds, with and without the jus, to be savoured independently. To ensure there was some green to my meal, I chose Poached Pear and Parmesan Snow Pea Tendrils as my second side; I never expected it to prove so crisp, so sweet and such an exquisite pleasure to eat.

The Lemon Curd Pie with Blood Orange Sorbet ($9.50) was the most popular dessert at our table, and for good reason. The sweet, crumbly, buttery shortcrust was the perfect foil to the lemon curd which was tart, thick and not too sweet. The only thing one could possibly split hairs about was the sorbet which was so delicately acidic that I initially mistook it for strawberry.

White Chocolate Crème Brûlée with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream ($9.50) came in a close second with its extremely thick, almost fully solid custard and thick burnt sugar crust. With a generous speckling of vanilla bean, this usually fussy and over-refined dessert actually managed to be rustic and satisfying.

Grill'd

2010-12-22T18:26:00.004+11:00

Grill’d – 19/21 Nash Street, Rosalie Village Food Hub, Brisbane, Queensland

I’m in Australia for the next two weeks partly preparing for college that begins in approximately 7 weeks, partly playing my new role as brother-in-law for Christmas and partly getting a head start on the wonderful food culture here. It’s amazing how much a country’s role as a food-producer shows through in its cuisine; from the quality of ingredients to the value you get for every dollar spent, no importer can hope to match that. So – while I’m here – I intend to get all the gorgeous Aussie beef and lamb I can!

Now, there is no better way to get an idea of how access to good meat impacts daily life than by having a good burger. Plain and simple, a burger is a no-fuss daily staple that fuels everyone from a college student lunching between lectures to a go-getting executive in need of a quick bite. Grill’d is a great place to experience this and brunch for 4 amounted to a mere $51.50. Their take-away menus proudly proclaim “SAY NO TO BAD STUFF” and there are no heated shelves of pre-assembled burgers oozing grease through their wax-paper wrappers to be seen; each sandwich is made to order. I think someone ought to be sainted for that alone.

While eating bizarre creations may be fun and exciting, sometimes complete focus on a single core element is required to give it the respect it deserves. So, to give the juicy hunk of cow its due, I had a Simply Grill’d with Cheese ($9.90): a 100% lean beef patty accompanied in the most basic and classic fashion with salad greens, relish, herbed mayonnaise and cheese. It was a decision I will never regret for that first bite left me dizzy from the purest, clearest sensation of – quite possibly - the perfect grilled patty. Parallel grill marks of char explode with sharp smoky flavour while the lean chuck defies logic to yield an astonishing amount of beefy juice; there is neither greasy aftertaste nor gummy chew of fillers. The garnish is barely discernible except for the crunch it provides; all is right in the world.

Another beast to keep one’s eyes peeled for this time of year (out of spring and into summer) is lamb. Well aware of that, the other carnivore of my party zeroed in on The Full Minty ($11.90), a summer special. A grilled lamb patty crowns a carefully crafted mélange of sweet beetroot, astringent rocket, juicy tomato slices, crisp Spanish onions, creamy herbed mayonnaise and the characteristic neutralizing perfume of mint jelly. Just like the beef apparently, this excellent lamb pattie was the main focus and dwarfed everything else in presence on the palate. The potentially off-putting ovine character of lamb was very mild but it still retained meaty flavour. That unusual and complex combination of vegetables provided the right combination of flavours and textures to form a throne for the princely lamb.

The only legal companion of a burger would be Regular Chips ($4.30), the immense portion was thick cut and dusted with a mild spice mix. With the barest touch of salt, the natural sweetness and creaminess of the spuds shone. The slight dryness was easily remedied with either the creamy and aromatic Herbed Mayonnaise ($0.70) or the mild heat and sweetness of Sweet Chili Mayonnaise ($0.70). It was a pity that no vinegar was on hand though…

For those weight-watchers amongst us, the menu also included a substantial array of alternatives like salads. The Grill’d Chicken Salad ($12.50) was a tad dry as the chicken was lean and naturally not very rich in flavour or juice, more sauce was needed.

A far better choice was the Mushroom Feta Salad ($11.50) as it was graced with the earthy juice of sliced Portobello. This mushroom is often used as a meat substitute because of its character and capacity to satisfy in a manner typically limited to roast or grilled beast. Crumbled feta added a burst of sharp flavour and salinity while the bed of rocket was wonderfully generous and outclassed typical lettuce with its astringency and herbaceous character.

Imperial Treasure Teochew Cuisine

2010-12-19T13:32:00.006+11:00

Imperial Treasure Teochew Cuisine – 391 Orchard Road, Ngee Ann City, #04-20A

The more I visit Chinese restaurants, the more I begin to think that service is a Western ideal. Forget about them noticing that one of my party was clearly very Indian and spoke not a word of Chinese, every member of the wait staff simply rattled away in mandarin. Do not even expect thought to be put into your pace of eating when dishes are served for everything is dumped on your table at once; too bad if much of it grows cold before you manage to get round to it or if you lack room to move. Yet, these places manage to draw snaking queues because the food miraculously redeems all that with its variety and scrumptiousness. My party of three racked up a massive $115.93 bill and polished off every last morsel.

Our order of Marinated Duck's Tongue ($8) had a most curious texture midway between crunch and gelatinousness. While rather fussy going with a central shard of bone, it was excellent with a sharp white vinegar dip.

Vermicelli Soup with Roast Goose ($8) had a mixed reception for the jury's still out on whether the roast goose was pleasantly moist or soggy.

However, the thick, milky vermicelli soup with wonderful springy noodles found a fan in me for it seemed to have drawn inspiration from sliced fish noodles, one of my favourite comfort foods.

The Deep Fried Pig's Intestines ($8.40) were absolutely sensational. Extremely crisp on the outside, luxuriously soft and creamy on the inside while managing to remain not the least bit oily; it bordered on perfection.

Alas, the Pig's Trotters with Egg and Black Vinegar ($5.50) was proof that some things are best left to home cooks. The ginger sections were unpeeled, leaving a chewy, unappetizing layer of skin to ruin the mouthfeel of the tender young roots. Furthermore, the meat was not braised nearly long enough for the fat to be emulsified by the vinegar so the trotters were still tough and fatty rather than melt-in-your-mouth with little visible marbling. By cutting corners and saving time, all that remained noteworthy in this simple dish was a pleasantly syrupy sauce.

The Stewed Pig's Shank with Peanuts ($5) fared much better with its thick, rich gravy, generous chunks of gelatinous tendon and soft, delicate layer of skin.

The Steamed Teochew Dumplings ($3.30) were one of the more unusual dim sum offerings. Stuffed with turnip slices, black fungus and peanuts, they had a wonderful combination of textures.

I had to try a steamer of Har Kau ($4.40) which had delightfully soft skins stuffed till the verge of bursting with deliciously crunchy shrimp.

The Siew Mai ($4) were a touch too salty though but otherwise aced the combination of tender, juicy chicken stuffing and still more springy shrimp.

I loved the strong, grassy pungency of chives in the Pan Fried Chive Dumplings ($3.50) but they could have been far less greasy.

The Steamed Chicken with Fish Maw ($4.80) presented a gorgeous amalgam of flavours and textures with spongy fish maw, chewy shiitake, meaty ham chunks and juicy chicken pieces.

Shanghai Steamed Pork Dumplings ($3.60) are my perennial favourite but - as always - featured skins that were way too fragile. Nevertheless, I enjoyed whatever dribble of thickened meat broth and marinated mince that reached my mouth.

The Fish Maw Soup with Pearl Leaves ($9) was decidedly average though I always marvel at how a swim bladder can even be rendered edible. The crunchy fungus and small bits of mince provided the bulk of the texture and flavour though.

I much preferred the Minced Beef with Vegetables in Thickened Soup ($8) as the beef was not overcooked to toughness and flavoured the eggdrop-thickened soup generously.

A Chinese restaurant meal is never complete without a Mango Pudding ($4) and this one was a princely specimen with actual mango chunks embedded in the gelatinized mango purée, no chemical aftertaste detected.

The Walnut Cream ($4) was another winner with a pleasant viscosity and that bittersweetness I adore.

Less remarkable were the Egg Tarts ($3) which were a little too flaky but the custard struck a good balance of firmness and moistness.

Privé Bakery Café

2010-12-18T02:08:00.005+11:00

Privé Bakery Café - Marina at Keppel Bay, 2 Keppel Bay Vista

Privé has been on my list of places to visit for the longest time for a number of reasons. I heard they do a mean brunch, they are situated in a gorgeous location and they have Eggs Benedict/Royale on their menu. Alas, my long wait was for a $52.90 meal for two that ultimately proved disappointingly average.

My dining partner started off with a TWG French Earl Grey ($4.80) which was wonderfully refined and delicate, filling your nose with the rich perfume of bergamot and your tongue with clean, clear astringency; credit here rightfully goes to TWG whose outlet at ION I adore. Next to that, the crunchy oatmeal-raisin cookie seemed out of place as it was a flavour of comfort rather than of sophistication. A Sable Breton nibble would have been a better fit IMHO.

This was followed with the decadent-sounding Prawn Bisque with Cognac and Prawn Ravioli ($12) which was far from what it promised. Flat-tasting and underseasoned, it lacked even moderate crustacean sweetness; a dribble of sherry would have also given it much-needed depth. The ravioli offered an equal dearth of flavour with a slight doughiness to them too.

The extensive selection of pastries would have been excellent IF they had not been stone cold. Ignoring that, the Lemon Twist ($2) was delightfully flaky and light. Sweet but not cloying, its lemony character lay purely in an intensely citrusy aroma as it was not tart at all.

Even better was the Blueberry Muffin ($2.80) which was so rich, dense and moist that it almost resembled a pudding at points. Generously studded with sugary and richly hued blueberries, it was quite gorgeous. If only warmed slightly and served with butter...

The Croissant ($2) was another let-down though, too buttery to the point of being oily and lacking that characteristic flaky airiness.

Things did improve somewhat after that though. The Eggs Royale ($14.50) was sensational despite initial appearances. I was taken aback at the sight of fully-cooked smoked salmon but ventured a taste and was rewarded. Beneath a layer of molten cheese, the bernaise was luxuriously thick and creamy, clinging to the delicately poached eggs and oozing over the firm, flaky grilled smoked salmon.

Finishing things off was the Hazelnut Praline Royale ($6.80), highly recommended by our waiter and helping tip the scales just slightly further away from an unsatisfactory brunch. Rich, smooth and creamy; the mousse had a generous dose of lovely hazelnut flavour while the crisp base added that contrasting crunch for a balanced mouthfeel.

Lavender Corner

2010-12-17T00:10:00.003+11:00

Lavender Corner - 195 Lavender Street

This food centre was my family's go-to place for a good Chinese fix in my picky-eating childhood days. While they would enjoy the typical bak chor or wanton noodles, I'd only sample the more unusual items; and that's the stuff that has brought me back all these years later instead of to any run-of-the mill neighbourhood joint. You simply can't find this stuff in other hawker centres, let alone literally next to each other under one roof.

Ju Hao La Mian Xiao Long Bao (#01-29)

I've always had a soft spot for Xiao Long Bao ($5.50 for a steamer of 8). This is a cousin of the fiddly sort almost exclusively found in mid-range Chinese restaurants, I'll explain how shortly. Each of these little soup-filled parcels delivers an unfailingly surprising gush of flavour when its chewy outer layer yields under your teeth, sending steaming, rich thickened pork stock spurting in all directions (hopefully within your mouth). That's my private Asian version of present-opening Christmas joy; and I can have it all year round with a lovely astringent ginger-black vinegar dip.

This perhaps plebeian sort differs from the over-refined restaurant XLBs in the way their thicker skins allow my chopsticks to find purchase and lift them to my lips without the constant threat of a premature explosion. The deft, limp chopstick grip mastered by my Chinese ancestors wasn't something I inherited, as any casualty of a dim sum lunch with me will attest to.

Bugis Street Ngak Seah Beef Kuay Teow (#01-28)

I will never understand why Beef Kuay Teow ($5) is so elusive in Singaporean hawker centres. Do people fail to appreciate the allure of springy, chewy tripe; that unparalleled mouthfeel of gorgeously gelatinous tendon chunks or even the magic of beef strips morphing from blood-red to rosy pink as they are flash-cooked for mere seconds in boiling broth? I can't even begin to describe that mysterious thick, black, umami-vinegary-peppery sauce napping the chewy noodles that I've tried for years - in futility - to deconstruct. I'm delightfully resigned to a pilgrimage here whenever a craving takes me.

As a sidekick to all that richness is a meatball soup that is as simple as it is exquisite. Two dense, springy meatballs float in clear beefy stock. Do dip generously in tangy, fiery chili.

Kin Turtle Soup Geylang Lorong 35 (#01-27)

Before you go all PETA on me with the whole save-the-cutesy-turtles spiel; imagine with me the meaty bite of mutton meeting the leanness of chicken and the lovely jelly glory of sea cucumber, all available in one package. I trust you've exchanged your arms for cutlery?

The $15 bowl I ordered differs from the $10 option in that it contains wonderful sea-cucumber-esque turtle blubber and only the tenderest, choicest cuts of the reptile. The latter goes best with a simple garnish of cilantro and ginger or - for the bold - fiery vinegar-based chili sauce. The mildly herbal broth gets its characteristic bittersweet flavour from wolfberries and a dozen mysterious herbs; don't ask what, just eat.

2am:dessertbar

2010-12-11T13:05:00.005+11:00

2am:dessertbar (Desserts on the House) - 21A Lorong Liput, Holland Village

The 2am:dessertbar team has given me yet another unforgettable evening spent with my taste buds in glorious rapture. To top that off, everything was on the house as my spoils of the 2am:dessertbar Facebook Challenge! Simply “like” their Facebook page (http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/2am-dessertbar/186445036547) for a chance at 2 free desserts till New Year’s Eve.

Here's my first shot with a celebrity chef, Singapore's own Janice Wong!

I started off with a 2008 Kiona Late Harvest Gewurztraminer from Red Mountain, Washington State, it was absolutely spectacular. Being a late harvest wine, it had a definite sweetness but which remained decidedly delicate and un-syrupy along with just enough fruitiness to be refreshing. This left the path clear for the wonderful white-fruit notes of peaches and apricots to suffuse the senses.

The wine was paired with a gorgeous Cheese Avalanche of white chocolate cream cheese with figs, melon, hazelnut biscotti and salty smoked kiko nuts. The luxuriously smooth cream cheese was quite light and reminded me of yoghurt which made this dessert’s flavour profile reminiscent of a cheesecake-meets-parfait. The sweet-salty contrasts were varied and harmonious with the cheese and figs being my absolute favourite while the biscotti added crunchy bite and was wonderful all on its own if not with a smear of more cream cheese.

This was followed with Dulce Tintoralba, an oak-aged sweet red from Almansa in Spain. The Spanish like their wine full bodied and this was no exception, possessing truckloads of berry-based character that linger on the palate. Not much in the way of a nose (my only gripe), it was sweet and intense on the tongue with particularly clear notes of cherry and cassis.

I was so focused on my study of all its nuances that I forgot to snap a shot till it was almost all gone. Check out that rich ruby colour!

This was matched with a Chocolate Tart with Blood Orange Sorbet. I adored the tart base which was delicate, buttery, crumbly and crispy; perhaps Sable Breton? The lusciously velvety chocolate ganache was extremely rich and had an intense orange perfume to counterbalance the strength of dark chocolate. The best part of it all –I’m biased – was on the side though: blood orange sorbet. I know I’ve said it before but I’ll say it again, the sorbets here are unmatched in terms of their extremely fine ice crystals which keep the confection perpetually soft and cause it to melt beautifully instantly upon contact with the tongue. Light and judiciously sweetened, the spotlight remained on that refreshing citrusy tanginess to refresh the palate for another mouthful of chocolatey richness.

I will always have a soft spot for oozy chocolate desserts. Can one possibly get enough of chocolate souffles, fondants and tarts?

My surprise nibble for the night was Chocolate Shortbread which I will henceforth crave whenever I have a cup of coffee. Gorgeously intense with chocolatey depth, it was boldly bitter from dark chocolate, crumbly and buttery; exactly the way I love anything chocolate. I tried my best to make the 2 little chunks last and suppressed a sniff when the last crumb vanished.

Sakuraya

2010-12-07T00:43:00.005+11:00

Sakuraya – 154 West Coast Road, #B1-50 to 52 West Coast Plaza

This place is one of my not-so-rare indulgences whenever a sashimi craving hits hard. Sakuraya fish market has a substantial selection of fresh seafood which they expertly slice as well as garnish gorgeously with shiso leaves and mounds of julienned radish. Ark shell ad geoduck clams are the more exotic offerings aside from the popular hamachi (yellowtail), uni (sea urchin gonads) and - of course - salmon belly. They charge by weight and dining in costs the same as there is no service charge so a lavish feast for two came up to just $82.70.

The Mongo Ika - Cuttlefish ($7.60 for 96g) was sticky, sweet and silky-smooth; topped with Tobbiko - Flying Fish Roe ($6.30 for 100g), it was absolute bliss as the salty explosions of rich, marine character and crunch provided a resonant contrast of taste and texture.

The serving of roe was so generous that I could eat entire spoonfuls of the stuff and have a generous coating rather than a thimbleful with my Ika, things I could not dream of anywhere else. I finished a fair portion of the vividly orange microscopic spheres with fluffy, fragrant and delicately sweet-sour Sushi Rice ($3).

Another indulgence was the Muki Hotate - Fresh Scallops ($8 for 2) which had excellent mouthfeel that magically blended moist softness with a hint of crunch. Almost sugary with natural sweetness, the thin, glossy slivers were rich and creamy too. However, it was with the sweetish wasabi that it truly shone. The condiment added intensity, depth and amplified character in a way nothing else could, clearing your sinuses in the process too.

The sizable slab of Salmon Sashimi ($10.15 for 130g) was polished off in a flash for the slices were lusciously moist, rich and smooth. However it paled in comparison to the choicest Salmon Belly ($8.45 for 96g) which left me - as always - in speechless ecstasy with its divine butteriness. It harmonized wonderfully with the wasabi for a balance that was spunky yet mellow, sharp yet creamy.

The most extravagant thing we ordered was the Hamachi - Yellowtail ($18.20 for 140g) which worked out to over $3.60 per slice; but it was worth every cent. Creamy, rich, oily, meaty and yet so delicate; I struggle to piece together a description that would do it justice.

I can never resist octopus. Enrobed with batter in takoyaki or marinated in antipasti it is amazing but its invertebrate glory only truly shines in Hokkai Tako – Raw Octopus ($9.40 for 94g). Crunchy and salty with a subtle gelatinousness, it is juicy and indisputably better uncooked, unlike the manner typically served; note the paler colour of this specimen. The tentacles and suckers are vastly different in taste and texture. The former is softer and creamier while the latter has more spring and crunch, but I would be at a loss to pick one over the other.

Squaring things off was Ika Shiayaki – Grilled Squid which taught me the valuable lesson of quitting while you’re ahead. Next to the amazing sashimi, its mediocrity was quite jarring. One thing that piqued my interest was how the whiskers were a gradient of texture; crispy at the tip, it gradually softened to a springy chew at its thickest point.

Ayam Penyet Ria "Smashed Fried Chicken"

2010-11-26T01:02:00.006+11:00

Ayam Penyet Ria "Smashed Fried Chicken" - 304 Orchard Road, Lucky Plaza #04-25/26

You know you're in for some authentic Asian food when you walk into a restaurant and nobody is conversing in English. This eatery may be tucked away in a near-inaccessible corner of a mall, requiring you to navigate labyrinthine rows of money changers and camera shops just to get there, but be prepared to wait in a long queue of hungry pilgrims chattering deafeningly in bahasa indonesia come lunch time. Needless to say, the chicken was smashingly good.

The eponymous Ayam Penyet with Rice ($6.90) is an absolute must-try. Roughly translated as smashed chicken, the bird is coated in a thin layer of batter, deep fried before being summarily beaten to a pulp; and they said KFC was Kentucky Fried Cruelty. The brutality is well justified in my book though, the chicken was wonderfully crisp on the outside yet dripping with juice within. Lightly spiced and not too oily, it was easy to separate meat from bone in its pulverized state and smeared with a thick, tangy, weapons-grade sambal chilli sauce; the sort that is eaten with relish despite the sweat beading on your forehead and the tears filling your pleasure-glazed eyes. The batter-rubble from the chicken was a decadent indulgence with fluffy white rice and still more chilli. Also eaten with a daring amount of this sauce were chunks of crisp-fried beancurd and - my personal favourite - tempeh; bars of compacted, fermented soybeans with a salty, crunchy shell that yields to reveal a moist, creamy and buttery interior.

My dining partner's Lele Penyet ($6.90) was absolutely phenomenal. The moist, flaky and near-delicate flesh of the catfish was a delightful contrast to its sinfully crispy skin. I'm far from a fish lover (sashimi and beer-battering aside) but I could appreciate how it lacked any fishy or muddy off-flavour that I typically find in catfish, more sambal helped sway my opinion too.

Sop Buntut ($7) or Indonesian Oxtail might eclipse chicken stew as the comfort food archetype. Massive chunks of fall-off-the-bone beef were spiderwebbed with rich and gelatinous tendon for a peerless mouthfeel and a richness that made it all very satisfying. Despite the weight of the meat, the broth was conversely ethereal-light and clean-tasting, spiced subtly in a manner not too different from mee soto.

Less spectacular was the Tahu Telor ($5.90) which I usually polish off with relish elsewhere. Soggy with oil rather than crispy and with far too little jullienned cucumbers to give it satisfying crunch, this was the big disappointment of the meal. Worse still, they dressed it with run-of-the-mill satay peanut sauce rather than the pungent, sharp-tasting, character-filled kicap manis that is - in my opinion - the only standard.

I spotted Teh Botol Sosro ($1.90) on the drinks menu and could not hold myself back. The last time I had one of these was years ago on a community involvement trip to build a library on Bintan Island and it hasn't changed one bit. Strong tea is added with as much sugar as possible without crystallization occurring in this bottled drink, the result is a simultaneous caffeine and sugar high as both hit the bloodstream. Your pancreas will not thank you but it feels so damn good.

We rounded things off with an Es Cendol ($3.50) to share and I was not overly impressed. The sugary coconut drink was a bit too sweet without being salty, creamy or thick enough, the grass jelly and green chewy bits were a tad gummy too. I'll stick to the roadside Malaysian vendors with their 1RM Indian Chendols, despite the inevitable Lomotil I'll have to pop an hour or two later.

The Handburger

2010-11-20T02:10:00.005+11:00

The Handburger – 252 North Bridge Road #B1-65/66, Raffles City

My insatiable appetite for a slab of meat in a bun has taken me to yet another burger joint. The Handburger's mission statement is something that totally resonates with me: a good burger can be had at a decent price. They certainly proved that point with two gorgeous creations – one as part of a full set – that amounted to an extremely reasonable $27.78.

Chunky Fries ($4 with any burger plus a drink thrown in) arrived first, and chunky they were. These thick cut taters were crisp on the outside and mealy-while-still-firm on the inside. A tad salty, they weren’t exactly the best I’ve had but that didn’t stop me from stealing a fair amount from my friend.

The voice in my head said, “Damn, if there was a way of taking crisp-roasted duck pickled in it’s own fat - one of life’s most exquisite pleasures - and making it better, it’s probably this.” so I went for the Duck Leg Confit Burger ($11.80). Well it was grand, but not at all in the way expected. Nestled in the softest, most pillowy burger bun to ever grace my mouth were moist, rich and tender strips of duck; enveloping your teeth in a warm embrace of bite before parting delicately, almost lovingly, with a stream of juice. This divine mouthfeel was taken to the next level when contrasted with the crunch of sweetpea sprouts lending their herbaceous zing and plump orange segments exploding like tiny citrus nukes on the tongue. Topping things off was an orange sauce that bordered on being syrup with its sugary intensity. What left me wide-eyed in amazement was that this did not bring to mind classical Canard a l’Orange or even Confit de Canard but rather - and I kid you not - a vivid image of Lor Ark with Plum Sauce. Accidental Asian influence anyone?

My dining companion stuck firmly to basics though, and a wise decision it was. Stuffed in a caramelised onion bun (very similar to the one described earlier) was a zen lesson in balance, burger style. The Handburger Original ($7.80) was composed of the bare essentials: a ribeye patty, caramelised onion relish, a slice of molten cheddar and a smear of smoky-sweet barbecue sauce. The patty was excellently put together, lightly seasoned, moist yet not wet, tender yet with a sufficiently gratifying bite, solid yet falling apart in just the right way into a rubble of juice-spewing mince; it had the tightrope-balance just right and it was nothing short of beautiful.