Laurent’s Café & Chocolate Bar – 80 Mohamed Sultan Road #01-11 The Pier @ Robertson
Some claim that the best chocolate soufflé in Singapore is to be found here so it was my prerogative as a chocoholic to check it out at least once. Besides, soufflés are notoriously temperamental and one of the few things I haven’t the courage to make (yet?) so I need to satisfy my urge for one at an eatery. The total bill for 4 desserts came up to $52.90, hardly a steal but a price I’m comfortable with given the quality you get here.
We got off to a spectacular start with the Crispy Chocolate Tart ($6.80); a masterpiece of satin-smooth, sinfully rich and deliciously dark chocolate ganache on a crisp, delicate base that had hazelnut praline undertones.
The Pleasure ($9.80) seemed rather average after the dazzling tart, though it was good by any account. Pleasantly rich and a tad too sweet, this cake was a construction of milk chocolate and thus lost points with me.
After a wait of 20 minutes, the pieces de resistance finally arrived. First up was the After 8 Soufflé ($11.85), inspired by the classic ‘chocolate-enrobed’ after-dinner mints. This was light and fluffy as a soufflé should be though a little on the eggy side. It had a pleasantly subtle mintiness that was accessible if not punchy. The only failing would be discernible sugar crystals in the meringue. Tsk tsk, somebody apparently skimped on the sifting!
Truly, we saved the best for last with the Guanaja Chocolate Soufflé ($16.50). The famed Carribean cacao beans yield a rich, spicy, sophisticated chocolate with artfully layered flavour. The light medium – which still seemed heavier than your typical soufflé - took away some of the chocolate’s overwhelmingness for a truly divine result that connoisseur and child alike will enjoy. A drizzle of the vanilla sauce into the gooey interior dealt a flourish that set toes curling and eyes closing in absolute bliss. If that was not enough, a delightfully thick, tart, gorgeously red raspberry sorbet (marred by a few large ice crystals) was included on the side to cut through the richness of the rather massive soufflé. This is an indulgence you won’t soon forget and a real candidate for best chocolate soufflé on the island. I’m looking forward to trying the other competitors, any suggestions?
Jaan par André - 2 Stamford Road, 70F Swissotel The Stamford
I have heard so many great things about Jaan that I just had to try it before Chef Andre Chiang left it earlier this month (yes, this post is a little overdue). The high expectations I harboured were inflated by the restaurant’s placing on both the Miele and S Pellegrino lists; and were perhaps partly to blame for the overall disappointment of my dining experience. The set lunch is priced at $58++ per pax.
The food seemed to focus a little too much on visual appeal, sacrificing flavour and practicality. Call me conventional but I dine to chiefly thrill my tongue and fill my belly, ogling at presentation is icing on the cake. I’d savour something that looks disgusting but tastes divine while the reverse would draw a very different reaction. However, that was not Jaan’s biggest failing. Service was aloof and excruciatingly slow; a real shocker at a fine dining establishment. The waitresses were so dismissive and condescending that I actually avoided drawing their attention as much as possible, something easily done as they were quite blur to boot: I had to fill my own cup after the initial pour from the bottle of still water (the snobs don’t serve tap either!).
The amuse bouche of Squid Ink and Parmesan Sticks with Eggplant Dip was intriguing to the eye but not the palate. The thin, hard sticks bore disconcerting texture and taste similarities to the cheap, bland dried angelhair pasta those without pasta-presses resort to. Furthermore, they lacked the necessary surface area to be an appropriate dipping instrument for what was essentially a typical baba ghanoush. This made for a bad first impression.
The selection of breads were offered just once so I only got round to trying two varieties. The Sourdough was typically crusty and comforting while the Mini-Baguette was rather dry, something more than remedied by the generous pat of French butter.
My dining partner opted for the Cailee Grilee Moutarde Etouffee as her starter; a baby Mache salad with grilled quail breast, chorizo ice cream, ratte potato confit and truffle-braised mustard seed. The earthy truffle flavours complemented mustard seed sharpness and pungency while the unusual chorizo ice cream lent flavour to an otherwise bland quail alongside the familiar caramel tones of a roast onion. This blend of flavours – while good – did not wow her overmuch.
I went for the Gelee de Foie Gras Chaise a la Forestiere instead; hot foie gras jelly topped with wild mushroom fricassee and black winter truffle coulis. This was probably the best dish of the spread with an explosive smokiness and earthiness from the truffles which went well with the creamy jelly. That said, the jelly was closer to egg tofu than foie gras which it hadn’t the slightest flavour of. Furthermore, a heavy-handed use of salt threatened to undermine everything and left me parched and drinking way too much water, perhaps a ruse to encourage buying another overpriced bottle?
My Short Rib Rosti Trente-Six Heurs au Chabon Aromatique (36 hour roast short rib coated with charcoal braised truffle polenta and cevenne onion)has been lauded by many but failed to deliver in my opinion. Surprisingly, it was not sous-vide. More than a little chewy though commendably soft, it felt somewhat like eating a marshmallow. The vibrantly green sauce was quite salty and had a strong, familiar grassy taste that I couldn’t quite place. The little creamy balls coated in sweetish breadcrumbs were rich enough to take on the salt of the sauce, more so than the meat. The mash was a little coarse but full of sweet, oniony flavour.
My dining partner had the ill fortune of choosing the Boudin Blanc de Mediterranee Fair Maison, a light smoked homemade boudin blanc of Mediterranean seafood with lobster emulsion and ginger scented William pear compote. The boiled seafood sausage comprised salmon, squid as well as lobster; it was a little fishy and rather bland though a pleasant tart pear puree balanced it off. The richly flavoured lobster foam went well with the wilted greens. Overall it was an impressive-sounding but ultimately underwhelming dish.
For dessert, I went for the Snickers Version 2010; I’m guessing that a 2010 version would mean it’s a popular signature? The really strong hazelnut flavour is the first thing to hit you once you get beyond the aesthetically-enthralling artful mess. The wafers in the melange were light and delicate, almost Japanese in spirit. Finally salty undercurrents accentuated the rich, sweet milk chocolate which – as always – would have been better if it were dark.
The Tarte Au Citron (lemon tart on mini churros, granite of pink campari and grapefruit) was similarly gorgeous in apperance but really difficult to photograph. A twist to the classical lemon-meringue concept, the lemon cream was almost faithfully meringue in spirit while the churros added an exciting, spicy flourish. Tragically, the grapefruit sorbet was way too subtle, seeming more like shaved ice.
Santouka Hokkaido Ramen – 6 Eu Tong Sen Street, The Central #02-76
I’ve been alerted to the phenomenon that the Japanese expatriates in Singapore frequent this place for ramen while locals flock to nearby Tampopo. Santouka’s menu is priced reasonably and is rather simple with four different choices of soup: shiyu, shoyu, miso and kara miso. The shared Tonkotsu base is a stock of pork bones, vegetables and dried kelp among other things for a milky, flavourful result. A bowl of noodles of any flavour is as good a reason as any for a temporary break in the carbohydrate boycott. Dinner for 4 Came up to $64.70.
The Kara Miso ($14.50) is the only choice for capsaicin-addicts like me. The vibrant orange-red of the soup is a pretty accurate indicator (or warning) of its punchy spice that left me smacking my lips. The thinly sliced pork had a balanced marbling that was satisfying without being too sinful and the meat retained some of its bite while bamboo shoots accorded textural variety.
The Miso Ramen ($13.50) was just shy of being cloyingly rich and is extremely filling. Unlike what one typically encounters, the miso soup was neither MSG-laden nor overwhelmingly salty; authentic stuff.
The Shoyu Ramen ($13.50) would be a more subdued creature compared to the aforementioned two with subtle highlights of the layered flavours of soy sauce instead of strong characteristics hitting you in the face. These complex nuances are often overlooked and make for an interesting experience if you take the time to savour them.
Hatched is a lovely all-day breakfast place situated along the narrow, green lane of Evans Road. Its popularity is evident from the fast-paced jockeying for lots in a treacherously undulating gravel parking area. However, patience and a good bit of luck will pay off in a truly delightful and fairly-priced meal from a menu that showcases eggs done in every conceivable shape and form. Besides, one particularly cute waitress didn’t detract from the experience either. A hearty breakfast for 3 came up to $56.50.
I opted for the brunch staple of Burly Benedict ($10 for one egg) which astounded me in every way except one. This rendition of the classic shattered many stereotypes, appearing closer to a topless burger at first sight with the poached egg perched pristinely atop a generous mound of corned beef. This was a brainwave for the rich egg mellowed out the salty beef so the distinct meaty and briny flavours shone alongside the creamy and curiously sweetish Mornay that was once again given a spin with a dash of tangy Worcester.Mealy potatoes jazzed up with syrupy balsamico and caramelised onions added an enhanced perspective to the glorious tumult of flavours. The only failing was an overdone egg with a near-solid yolk, perfection was so near yet so far.
The Papillote($12) was an interesting take on the classic scrambled preparation with the fluffy eggs wrapped neatly in parcels of smoked salmon topped with chive cream. The aesthetic appeal of the vivid, vibrant colours aside; this was an artfully nuanced and harmonised product of flavour design. It was rich, creamy and balanced with the smokiness of the salmon resounding off the light and airy eggs.
The omelette mixture of the El Chorizo ($14) was short of cream in my opinion, lacking a significant dose richness and weight. This was compounded by a flat and deflated mouthfeel lacking any fluffiness whatsoever. The saving grace took on the surprising form of the accompanying sausages that were neither too spicy nor salty but packed just the right amount of juiciness and flavour.
The three of us didn’t want to leave just yet and ordered a Pancake Party ($10 for 3); what was possibly the best decision of the meal. These pancakes were deliciously thick, buttery and had a light sponginess that allowed the circles to soak up a truly delightful accompanying Sabayon sauce which outclassed the decent, traditional maple syrup in spades. They graciously gave us an additional ramekin of the light custard sauce at no extra charge.
A waitress barking “How many?” in Teochew with a baleful stare the moment you step through the doors would cause most to turn heel and march out of any restaurant. However, should you let the hostile wait staff and raucous setting slide; you’ll get a truly delicious slice of history on a dime. My mother has been sampling traditional Teochew fare at this eatery since it started off as a cze char push cart in the 60s and dinner for two at $57 is a price reminiscent of that bygone era. (The Chinese names of the various dishes have been anglicised.)
The Oyster Porridge is a vastly different creature from the typical gluey gruel one finds; this was composed of delicate rice grains floating in a light but flavourful stock made from crisp-fried fish. The numerous oysters floating about were cooked to a creamy, springy perfection and were divine with a fiery, piquant vinegar-lime chilli sauce.
The Selection of Five Appetisers was a lip-smacking crash course in typical Teochew finger food. The liver rolls had a generous dose of 5 spice powder that resulted in an explosive flavour which melded perfectly with the natural metallic tang of the organ meat. The meaty prawn balls were pure heaven with caramel notes from the sweet sauce while the crisp, golden spring rolls were stuffed full of turnip and carrot. Finally, two varieties of fritters of unknown composition add a hint of decidedly delectable mystique to the mix.
The Braised Sea Cucumber with Pork is a must have for any connoisseur of cuisine from this dialect group. Eaten largely for its gelatinous texture, sea cucumber readily takes on the flavours it is surrounded by. In this instance, a rich, umami thickened meat stock accented with star anise left me almost breathless with pleasure. The sought-after texture may be the result of how sea cucumbers can actively tighten or loosen their catch-collagen fibres, liquefying themselves to squeeze through cracks in rock.
The delicious paper-thin crisp skin coating a thick, delicate, pillowy inner layer of the Fried Pig’s Intestine illustrates a brutally steep temperature gradient used masterfully. Those who remember their biology would recognise the transverse folds of the large intestine which would mean a truly backbreaking cleaning process.
The Pig’s Intestine Stuffed with Glutinous Rice - on the other hand - involves the small intestine in what is reminiscent of a sausage. A sinful combination of lard and smoked meat saturates the sticky grains with flavour.
The Pork Terrine looks like those fossils frozen in time at the natural history museum, pretty intimidating stuff. Coils of tripe, cubes of meat and various dismembered odds-and-ends are floating in gelatinised stock in suspended animation. The unsqueamish will be rewarded with chewiness, pillow-softness, melt-in-your-mouth and a symphony of other textures in a single bite. A good, tear-inducing chilli sauce is a must!
Tawandang Microbrewery – 1204 ECP #01-06 UMDC Seafood Centre
This is an intriguing watering hole blending spicy Thai flavours with good old German grog. While somewhat expensive as pub destinations go, it does occupy a market thus far left largely unexplored and might survive on novelty/monopoly alone for the time being. However, if they want to be more than a promising but short-lived venture, I would strongly advise slashing prices by between thirty to fifty percent; I will not return otherwise. Lunch for two amounted to $94.20.
The TawandangDunkel ($8 for 300ml) was hoppy and sweet as one would expect of a dark beer but rather light without the usual heavy, almost syrupy feel.
The Tawandang Lager ($8 for 300ml) was extremely light as well, almost like a sparkling water. I would reckon that this is a good introductory beer and suits the purpose of thirst-quencher or flame-snuffer pretty well.
The Deep Fried Pork Knuckle with Spicy Sauce ($30) was arguably the main reason I paid this place a visit for it came highly recommended by an acquaintance. Obviously tailored to the Asian palate, 5-spice powder rubbed was into skin for a deliciously decadent and perfectly crisp crackling with a robust flavour absent in the original German staple. This was further transported by a sweet and fragrant chilli sauce that cut through grease and richness. The sauerkraut accompaniment had a clear Thai influence with spicy and herby notes while the mash was curiously sweet. My only grouse was that the knuckle was a tiny portion hardly justifying the price.
The Thai Style Grilled Beef with Spicy Sauce ($22) was downright exorbitant. The tiny portion indicated such obvious fleecing that I felt insulted. That said, the meat was tender and extremely juicy while the generously spiced tangy sauce was flavoured with a powerfully fragrant mix of parsley, scallions, tamarind and lime.
The Tawandang Style Sauteed Morning Glory ($12) was a dish I had been seeking for quite awhile. This painstaking labour of love involves running a razor-shrap knife along stalks of water convulvus (or Kang Kong in the local vernacular), slicing off fettuccini- like ribbons. Garlicy, crunchy and spicy, this dish is tragically almost impossible to find. It is worth noting again that the price tag of over ten dollars for a vegetable dish is just insane.
In the wake of the island-wide ice cream parlour explosion over the past few years, a frozen yoghurt revolution is well underway with the likes of Yami Yoghurt, Frolick! and new player Sogurt whose flagship outlet opened near my place last month.
The refreshing DIY concept involves soft-serve style frozen yogurt dispensers in a multitude of flavours and a vast array of seasonal toppings all of which you spoon, drizzle or pump into various-sized cups yourself; not unlike a 7-Eleven Slurpee. These guys have wizened up to the tricks of greedy people filling their containers to the point of overflowing to get the most bang for their buck, they charge by weight. At $3.20 per 100g, the over-zealous and trigger-happy (or should I say pump-happy) might want to watch themselves. My cup was a just-beyond-modest $9.90 while my cousin’s – whom I was treating – put together a massive $26 dollar monster weighing in at over 800g.
Despite the solitary connotations of the abovementioned self-gratification, the Sogurt Girls rival the desserts themselves as a marketing method. The Japanese maid-café, cosplay and even lolicon influences are quite evident in the adorable, strawberry-speckled outfits worn by comely teenage waitresses. The duo was chatty and friendly, inquiring if it was our first visit and explaining the concept of the place. Enthusiastic and energetic, they posed for a picture with the machines after a quick phone call to the boss for permission; but not before a coy you-go-no-you-go between themselves. While the candy might bring in the girls like bees to honey, I’m pretty sure the eye candy will bring in swarms of guys too.
The sizable selection of flavours can be rather intimidating at first so I sheepishly deferred to getting recommendations from the girls. I could tell immediately that they do try the merchandise, a good indicator by any account. One recommended the Peach & Mango while the other mentioned that Plain was her favourite. They offered to let me try the flavours and slipped in the advice that I might want to try layering different flavours on top of each other.
Plain – A good creamy base relying on toppings for flavour.
Strawberry Pomegranate – By far my favourite with a refreshingly tart and sweet mix which balances the creamy frozen-yoghurt medium.
Peach & Mango – For those with a sweet tooth; while pleasant at first, I found it a little cloying once beyond a small helping.
Strawberry – A traditional classic that would appeal to those a little more conservative.
Cookies & Cream – Left it for my next visit, what’s life without a little mystery?
Acai Berry – This machine was pulling a hissy fit, I’ll try this seemingly Oprah-inspired offering next time as well.
Chocolate – A chemical accent put a dent in this otherwise great flavour.
Irish Mint – A perfect, balanced strength that was neither medicinally-strong nor too subtle. The strong notes made this the perfect mask for the chocolate which you can dispense together with by pulling a middle lever.
As the seasonal toppings are swapped every so often, I won’t give a blow-by-blow account of them. Suffice to say that the selection is eclectic and extensive with anything from aloe-vera to wafers. The health-conscious will be pleased to note that you could easily assemble a fruit salad between the mangoes, strawberries, grapes and many more.
This is one eatery whose reputation for good food in a beautiful setting has ensured a steady flow of pilgrims to its central yet inconvenient locale. Tucked away in the foliage of Tanglin Road opposite the Brunei embassy, Spruce eludes anyone who doesn’t have a car despite being in the outskirts of the Orchard area. Although it attracts obviously well-heeled clientele, prices here have remained reasonable; a heavy brunch that was virtually two mains set me back $38.84. I will definitely find time for a second visit!
Ambience is such an important part of the Spruce experience that I’ll deviate from my typical straight-to-the-food approach. The rustic charm of this “country cottage” was so compelling in its earthy, casual appeal that I fell in love with it from the moment I stepped in, unable to even contemplate leaving. The laidback atmosphere was evident from the get-go; I slipped through a narrow alley between potted plants and a cupboard into the shady, fan-cooled alfresco dining area. When I asked a passing waiter for directions to the main entrance where I could request for a table, he looked at me quizzically and informed me I had just waltzed through it without even realising.
The patio alfresco area is filled with the warm, dim glow of an eclectic but harmonious mix of ceiling lamps. This cosy atmosphere is further enhanced by beautiful dark wood floors, brick and many potted plants. In this airy space, some ate at tables while others lounged on couches at the rear, tapping away on Macbooks. On the other hand, the indoor dining area I opted for was bathed in late morning sunshine streaming through picture windows, rebounding of white stucco walls and glass doors. I have no doubt that anyone would feel that same immediate desire to spend an entire lazy Saturday amidst the lush greens and warm woods of this sanctuary, dreading the inevitable return home.
I was recommended the Eggs Benedict on Corn Waffles ($14) and it did not disappoint. Waffles are a refreshing twist to the traditional English muffin base which I am getting a little jaded of. These were made a little soft to accord a degree of yolk-mopping absorbency and had sweet corn kernels ingeniously slipped beneath the poached eggs. The eggs were a little overcooked with a thin outer shell of cooked yolk surrounding the yellow goo instead of a mere delicate, sheer egg-white membrane. However, this was more than redeemed by a gastronomic symbiosis like no other: the eggs themselves were unseasoned, borrowing saltiness from the crowning of lean bacon whose lack of fat-richness was compensated for by the yolk. Even the gorgeous hollandaise with its ever-so-subtle acidity was rendered a third wheel in this whirlwind flavour romance.
How could one go to Spruce without trying the Signature Burger with Bacon ($19)? So despite my already happy belly, I placed an order. The patty was a tender, juice-dripping, rosy-hued masterpiece of medium rare. This was topped with crisp and sweet red onions, a generous smear of mustard, the same lean bacon from the eggs Benedict and julienned lettuce. I may have mentioned this before but julienned lettuce is my secret extra-credit when it comes to burgers, satisfying my neurotic need for neatness when I eat. Alas, this perfect picture fell victim to the quintessential burger-architecture mistake. While the top bun was protected by several layers of garnish, the bottom bun’s thin coating of butter rapidly caved to the onslaught of juice from the adjacent patty for a soggy result.
The potato wedges were like the love child of a roast potato and his French fry paramour. Instead of typical mealy mush, one is met with an actual piece of solid potato beneath the crisp skin. A flourish of character and punch was accorded by a dash of spiced salt, move over ketchup.
I dropped by this cosy little bakery on my recent trip to Joo Chiat which I’ll blog about in instalments. The minimalist décor is chic and inviting despite being very practical, with a large wall-mounted screen flashing on-going promotions and recommendations. The cakes here are comfortably in the middle of my average price range while the macarons – as always – are a bit of an indulgence but pretty impossible to resist. While not worth a pilgrimage to in my opinion, it is a worthy stop-over if you’re in the neighbourhood. A snack for two amounted to $18.62.
The Mango Passion ($6.70) was a little dry but pleasantly rich with a mild sweetness balanced by tart raspberries and smoky pistachios that added a degree of dimension and pizzazz. The mango flavour was tastefully subtle and pleasant without any nasty chemical tang.
The New York Slice ($6.70) was a finer cheesecake than the mango with a certain delicacy and sophisticated lightness to it, reflecting the classy air of its namesake. I have to get in touch with Obolo’s fruit supplier for the strawberries were the ideal balance of sweet and tart.
I could not resist the Cassis Macaron ($2.15) which was not too sweet with a good balance of dark chocolate butter-cream and tangy, floral, blackcurrant-filled biscuit.
I’ve been meaning to go to this place for awhile, it’s opposite my church and has made a name for itself with creative, maverick concepts for burgers; arguably my favourite food. It’s a simple place with a small seating capacity but I guess that allows the kitchen to ensure every juicy offering delivered to your table will thrill and satiate. A VERY heavy supper for three came up to $45.30.
We started off with the Chilli Queso and Chips ($8.80). The chilli con carne made up for a somewhat subdued flavour with a generous amount of ground beef in a very rich take on refried beans. The chips were exceptionally crunchy and we ran out of them before we ran out of sauce, a rare scenario which illustrates the truly massive portions here.
A towering monster of two thick beef patties, bacon rashers, a fried egg, barbecue sauce and cheese; The Fat Basterd ($15.00) is the classic bacon cheeseburger on steroids and Fatboy’s signature. The sandwich is so massive that they had to introduce a skinny version for the wimps out there. Much to the incredulous glee of my dining partners, I was barely able to wrap my hand around the burger and fit it in my mouth, not something for the faint-hearted. The extremely juicy patties both made and broke the burger for while they were oh-so-good, their position next to the bun rendered the bread rapidly soggy and disintegrating. The fried egg was conversely a little dry too, I would have appreciated a still-runny yolk. The devil’s in the details when it comes to burger architecture but nevertheless it was one burger experience I won’t soon forget.
Often too soggy or too crisp, skinny and greasy; French fries are usually the tragic afterthought served alongside burgers. As such, when one encounters truly exceptional specimens like those at Fatboy’s, it’s only right to take a moment and give them their due attention. The satisfyingly enormous-cut potatoes were a delicate crisp on the outside and a wonderful mealy on the inside. They come unsalted so you can add however much you want; I personally skipped the salt and opted for the ketchup and chilli to do the talking. Sheer bliss.
The Burger of the Day ($11.00) was curried lamb in which the use of mango chutney was sheer genius. The sweet, piquant sauce was the perfect match for a lamb patty that impressed me by retaining the meat’s robust flavour that I had expected to be tragically masked by the heavy handed use of rosemary or some other herb. The mere hint of sweet curry sauce could only be detected if one concentrated but that did not detract from the amazing experience one bit.
The Elvis ($10.50) was like breakfast, dinner and dessert all bundled into one glorious package. Gooey peanut butter, meaty pork patty and sweet banana appear to be disparate elements but harmonise into something truly beautiful.
