XXII

XXII

22 Union Street, Pyrmont, NSW 2009

Until now, I’ve always walked past this cute little corner café brimming with curiosity an unfortunately full tummy. Tucked in a well-heeled neighbourhood with a Simon Johnson instead of a Coles and a stone’s throw away from the newly refurbished Star, I knew I was in for a treat when my date and I finally walked in.

At the suggestion of our charming waiter, we started off with the Bruschetta du Jour ($10.5) that was quite different from the typical too-hard crostini with arbitrary marinated tomatoes. A rosette of salmon “confit” crowned with a dollop of dill-infused crème fraîche was presented on a silky smooth blanket of mashed avocado atop pillowy pliant foccacia. I could not have enough.

The Handmade Gnocchi with Burnt Butter Sage Sauce and Chargrilled Prawns ($18.5) should not be missed. The gnocchi were in beautifully irregular rustic nubbins, richly satisfying with a blend of polenta and ricotta. The sauce was brilliantly perfumed with sage, the verdant leaves fried to a crisp and tossed in for extra effect. Undeniably perfect prawns completed the trifecta with their moist crunch and marine sweetness.

My Chef’s Special ($16.5) was good if a little less spectacular. Al dente penne in a pomodoro sauce enriched with eggplant with chunks of pork fillet was tasty but left me still quite hungry.

We finished off with a Hazelnut Brûlée with Savoiardi Gelato ($12). This was really quite beautiful with that bittersweet burnt sugar tang having an added nutty edge and balanced by a deliciously creamy gelato capturing that rich yet delicate sweetness of ladyfinger biscuits.

A remark on service: For the better part of the meal, we were impressed by our debonair waiter who was full of wonderful recommendations and a rich Italian accent that added atmosphere to the meal. Thankfully only our dessert order was somewhat poorly handled by a rather lazy and irritable Aussie waitress who had to be told to check which desserts were available as she agonised over the possibilities for a good two minutes and - to our shock - hollered them to us across the room. The other diners present appeared rather taken aback too.

Assiette

Assiette

48 Albion Street, Surry Hills, NSW 2010

Tel: +6192127979

Typically more exciting than breakfast staples yet far more relaxed than stuffy dinners and with better light for pictures, lunch is my favourite meal to blog about. Furthermore, I love to make the most of every experience so truncated lunch menus that a small table can exhaust are foremost on my list of favourite things. I must say Assiette certainly covered all these bases to win my heart with its three-course two-choice Friday Lunch ($35).

I opted for a Miso-Glazed Salmon with Buckwheat Noodles, Sesame and Daikon as my starter. Arresting in presentation with a medley of subtle and refined Japanese flavours, it tickled my palate perfectly.

The Pumpkin Soup with Crispy Chicken Wing and Fennel Seeds was a richer, heartier choice. The fennel seeds gave this quintessential comfort food a reinvigorating ethnic zing.

My main came in the form of a Navarin of Lamb in Red Wine, undeniably classic and a safe bet to satisfy. It was elegantly executed and perfectly melt-in-your mouth if somewhat predictable.

The Pan Fried Sea Bream with Pea and Spring Onion Risotto pleased my companions with the Arborio richness and sweet peas balanced by refreshing spring onion sharpness. All that formed a firm stage for the bream to be presented spectacularly unadorned.

Desserts - without a doubt – stole the show. I appreciated the delicate sweetness of the Pear and Almond Tarte Fine with Vanilla Mascarpone. Smooth, vanilla bean-studded mascarpone complemented the fragrant, flaky pastry with more oomph than mere whipped cream ever could have.

However it was the Bread and Butter Pudding with Orange and Cardamom Anglaise that had my heart. At the first bite, you think you have it all figured out as another run-of-the-mill pudding and are about to dismiss it. Then, subtle, delayed and lingering, the sensual spice hits in an almost playful manner. Much like the fennel seeds in the pumpkin soup; cardamom filled this dusty, age-old standard with new life.

Garfish

Garfish

6/29 Holtermann Street, NSW 2065

Tel: +6199660445

I went to Garfish awhile back and rekindled my love for seafood. It was clear from the get-go that this establishment’s faith rests firmly in quality fish. From an ever-changing specials menu reflecting the best fish in season to specifying the geographical origin of what would arrive on my plate, I knew I was in for a treat.

Spiced Yellowfin Tuna (NSW) with a side of Harissa Roasted Pumpkin, Chickpea and Parsley Salad with Garlic Yoghurt Dressing ($36) was a substantial slab of fish. The Mediterranean spice rub lovingly massaged into it was punchy enough to complement the delicious smoky character of seared tuna yet remained nuanced enough to not mask everything completely.

Roasted Hiramasa Kingfish (SA) with a side of Sautéed Brussel Sprouts, Salsa Verde and Toasted Almonds ($34) was the show-stealer of the evening. Its crisp skin alone was an other-worldly experience; impossibly light and crisp in texture yet possessing a wealth of sweet-salty marine flavour.

The jury’s still out on the Hiramasa Kingfish and King Prawn Sausage with Crushed Peas, Radish and Lime Buerre Blanc ($20). While the chewy-crunchy mouthfeel was undeniably pleasant, fish cannot provide that greasy stick-to-your-ribs bliss that its terrestrial counterparts can.

Chocolate Pave with Griottines, Almond Brittle and Orange Sauce ($13.50) was so smooth and rich that the subtle citrus edge fell somewhat short of being a true counterpoint. I reckon a slightly darker chocolate with a bolder bitter tang would have really brought it home.

Café Ish

Café Ish

82 Campbell Street, Surry Hills, NSW 2010

Tel: +6192811688

Café Ish describes itself as a Native-Australian Japanese Café-Bar and certainly delivers that in principle. Everything on the menu certainly has the potential to enthral and amaze with a cheeky spin on ingredients that are usually mutually exclusive. However, it was somewhat of a hit-and-miss adventure.

Cabbage with Wattle Seed Miso Mayonnaise ($6) was a beautiful starter with the crunchy, sweet leaves highlighting the punchy miso in the creamy dip.

Fried Potato and Organic Fetta Mochi with Davidson Plum Tonkatsu Sauce ($5) was something I popped into my mouth with some degree of trepidation but it rewarded with a delightful textural experience. The light and crisp outer crust yielded to a piping-hot, delicately chewy core in which the salty cheese and sugary sauce embraced.

Miso Soup with Kombu and Mushroom Stock ($5) was the perfect palate cleanser with its delightful umaminess.

Sea Urchin and Tuna Salad was an off-menu item that should be a permanent fixture, though I was hard-pressed to find a scrap of uni. The tuna on the other hand was gorgeous, lightly charred on the outside but richly rosy at the centre.

California Roll of Crumbed Crocodile, Avocado and Lemon Myrtle Mayonnaise with a Pickled Rosella Flower on the Side ($13.50) had a lukewarm reception in my group as there was little one could taste beyond the rice and avocado.

Kangaroo, Prawn and Ginger Gyoza with Black Vinegar and White Soy ($12) was something one either loved or hated as it as the ginger could not quite take away kangaroo’s gamey character.

Ai’s “Freaking Awesome” Fried Chicken with Vinegar and Shallot Dressing ($14.50) was good if not completely “freaking awesome”. The light, crispy crust was a tempura and southern-style hybrid that was well executed if somewhat salty. I did appreciate the acidity of the dressing as it balanced out the grease.

Wagyu Ribs Twice-Cooked in Native Flavours, Smokey Soy Caramel. Garlic, Chilli, Coriander and Sesame ($23) was the resounding disappointment of the evening. Tough as leather, it was not tenderly marbled but armoured in fat and gristle. Our first serve was pretty much a slab of fat and the replacement they kindly provided was little better. Being the only guy in my 4-person dinner group, I had quite a workout from all the sawing and dissecting.

Kara-age Crab Omelette with Garlic, Chilli, Soy and Ginger Dressing, Avocado, Shallots and Lime ($24) served to redeem the evening to some degree with a balance of crunch and chew; sweetness and tartness.

The meal was washed down with two sakes. Sweet and dry, warm and cold; both went well with pretty much everything. However, I knew I had one too many cadaver practicals when their crisp, sweet smell transiently reminded me of formaldehyde.

Wattle Seed Maccachino ($6.10) was apparently their signature drink so we had that in place of dessert.

Beautifully presented and possessing a rich, spicy aroma; I had to stop myself from ordering a second cup.

La Banette Patisserie

La Banette Patisserie

18 Glebe Point Road, Glebe, NSW 2037

Tel: +6180959688

There is just one reason I’ll regret leaving my dingy little city apartment for on-campus accommodation in July: Glebe Point Road. I’ve been literally within a few hundred metres of one of Sydney’s most famous food districts for the past few months (and I have not explored it half as much as I should have). Of all the wonderful cafes and eateries, La Banette – and this gorgeous Fig Tart - will certainly be one of the hardest ones I’ll have to say goodbye to…

This is a nondescript hole in the wall that your nose leads you to rather than your eyes. A good part of that buttery, yeasty aroma wafting down the street comes from the Quiche Closet that always makes my eyes glaze in blissful indecision.

Seating is limited so I like to go early and order things as they come out of the oven and onto the counter; fresh Almond Croissants always leave me with a lasting grin.

The rows of seductive little cakes remind me of models lined up on a catwalk, every single one flamboyantly riveting.

On the other hand, Tarte au Citron draws one in with a comely elegance in that glossy sheen and citrus perfume.

If I wake up late, my brunch is never complete without Asparagus Quiche. Couched in a buttery crust are wonderfully tender, mildly bitter spears embedded in fluffy, savoury custard.

The classic Quiche Lorraine never disappoints with that feather-light custard saturated with decadent porky flavour.

A Danish from the massive array is ideal for a sweet finale.

Followed by a smooth, rich Piccolo Latté to sip on and watch the world go by.

Oh well, I guess I could always compromise by buying back a box of buttery bliss…

Adriano Zumbo

Adriano Zumbo

296 Darling Street, Balmain, NSW 2040

Tel: +6198107318

Brace yourselves for some hardcore food porn as I take you on a brief visit to the Adriano Zumbo’s flagship store in Balmain, arguably Sydney’s definitive patisserie.

A 1 metre-wide corridor runs between the glass display of treats and a solid wall.

Be prepared to jostle past patrons gazing in wide-eyed wonder to place your order!

The amalgam of butter, caramelised sugar and layers of exotic flavouring agents was nothing short of spectacular.

It was honestly difficult to choose within the limits of our collective budget and appetite for everything looked so amazing.

The quirky array crammed into the tiny shop was pretty mind-boggling...

There was – to my surprise – quite a number of savoury things on display.

Not to mention staples like bread, so Zumbo certainly covers all the bases.

I, however, resisted the urge to be sidetracked and focused on my initial purpose: the sweet stuff.

Don the Pandan Man ($9) captures Zumbo’s passion for all things Southeast Asian with a robustly flavoured yet light pandan financier slipped into a sheath of coconut cream and yoghurt. Kaffir lime accents in the crispy base lingers subtly at the edge of one’s palate for a delightful finish.

Macrons ($2.30 each) are perhaps what Zumbo’s most famous for and we snatched at least one of each flavour available.

Black Sesame, Licorice and Lime has a crisp outer shell and chewy interior. The dominant, almost peppery Licorice makes for an interesting experience. A warning though, this is a confusing taste profile.

Pandan surprises with a subtle, transient hint of glutinous rice followed by banana before the full-bodied screw pine comes through.

Mint and Chestnut possesses a strong flavour that one either loves or hates, I loved it.

Satay illustrates how Australians have yet to realise peanut butter and lemongrass is no substitute for the real thing.

Chocolate has a beautiful bittersweetness and richness but comes across as too chewy and dense. Perhaps an attempt at mimicking fudge?

Vanilla has the best texture, perfectly blending crisp delicacy and melt-in-your-mouth chewy pliancy. A mildly salty buttercream base forms the perfect stage for rich but not overpowering vanilla from visible vanilla beans.

Japanese Mayonnaise is a risk that pays off in spades. Actual savoury mayonnaise at its centre juxtaposes the sweet shell for an undeniably pleasurable experience. The tiny smear of the stuff renderd it a little on the dry side though.

Coconut and Black Rice triggered an intense bout of nostalgia in me as it is the perfect occidental take on Pulot hitam; perfectly rich and salty-sweet.

Samsung Honeycomb and Gingerbread develops on the tongue, honeycomb first then lingering gingery warmth.