Restaurant Absinthe

Restaurant Absinthe – 48 Bukit Pasoh Road

A luxurious custom menu planned by Chef Francois Mermilliod himself, warm service from an enthusiastic team and personal attention from charismatic, playful general manager Phillipe Pau; my dining partner’s friends at Absinthe pulled out every conceivable stop – and then some – to ensure my dinner there was absolutely unforgettable. $247.15 was well worth it for two people to enjoy an experience so perfect and magical that world peace actually seemed within reach.

(A stock photo of the interior will have to suffice as I was so jittery with excitement that I forgot to snap one.)

A belated birthday celebration presented the perfect excuse for flutes of Champagne which turned my mild hunger into a sustenance-demanding raging appetite with its fruity acidity.

The amuse bouche of Sourdough & Baguette kept my hunger pangs at bay with the former’s soft fluffiness and the latter’s dense chew equally yet disparately divine with salted butter.

I could not hold back my grin at the mere description of the first course, Hokkaido Scallop Carpaccio with Artichokes. Sweet, creamy and super soft; the delicate, silky shellfish had been ever so lightly marinated and topped with black pepper so its natural flavours were free to sweep over the palate. If the scallops were waves lapping at soft sand, buttery artichoke hearts were their foamy crests and the tang of fennel a refreshing ocean spray. It was like the perfect day at the beach on a plate.

Beautifully dressed yet full-flavoured, our salad of King Prawns Sautéed with Spicy Chorizo & Pine Nuts looked wonderful and tasted even better. The crisp watercress was lightly dressed in a slightly tangy vinaigrette but the real magic lay just beneath this green crown. Massive king prawn halves were accorded a sweet richness by a sprinkling of pine nuts and infused with the lovely smoky spice of chorizo. The creamy, potently-flavoured reduction was absolutely divine when mopped up with soft sourdough.

No classical French meal would be complete without Pan-fried Foie Gras with Warm Blinis & Morello Cherries. The liver was excellently done with a crisp outer layer right next to a sweet, creamy, wobbly inner core. This obviously indulgent richness was balanced by beautifully plump dark cherries, cooked to a fragile softness to release their tangy juices.

Already beside myself with luxuriant bliss, my eyes threatened to pop right out of my head at the sight of our off-menu Seared Veal with Bruised Potatoes & Truffle Jus. Right there, next to the gorgeously milky-pale, pink-hued veal was a black truffle CHUNK! Not a shaving, not a disk but an actual chunk of Tuber melanosporum the size of a raisin. Little did I know that a still larger piece lay hidden underneath the gorgeous slices of meat. With trembling hands I sliced off a fragment of truffle, wrapped it in a sliver of veal and placed it in my mouth. In an instant I was transported into a state of heightened sensory perception, each overwhelming pleasure so acute to border on the point of pain; the veal was a gradient of texture, crisp char giving way to a firm outer halo and a pillow-soft pink centre. The rich, milky flavours exploded into pungent earthiness reminiscent of mushrooms and garlic as I began to chew, black truffle did its magic and turned wonderful into incredible. Sparingly, I spread truffle fragments between sweet squash, sweeter broccolini and bruised potatoes which I infinitely prefer to formless mash, each mouthful rendering me speechless.

All that numbing pleasure was washed down with a light, fruity and slightly oaky Cotes du Rhône Rouge. Symbiosis was achieved as it relieved the weight and potential cloyingness of the strong, rich flavours.

Peach Tart with Sorbet was an excellent finish to the successive waves of glorious heaviness and richness. Crisp yet moist, light yet buttery the lovely flaky pastry was a harmony of opposites in perfect balance. This dessert elegantly presented the peach in three forms; caramelized in a tart, tangy in a sorbet or sweet and juicy in a sliver of fresh fruit. Vibrant berry notes bounce off the warm sweetness of peach in the form of a vibrantly-hued coulis by the side.

We hopped across the French-Italian border for an Affogato to go with our Petit Fours, something not on the menu but they obliged with a smile. While it might be blasphemous to French purists, I could think of no better way to bring the meal to a close. Strong espresso with creamy and just subtly sweet vanilla ice cream have always been a match made in heaven and it was so prettily presented ad-hoc in a martini glass with a deliciously sugary burnt-caramel wafer.

Rumah Makan Minang

Rumah Makan Minang – 18 Kandahar Street

Malay cuisine never fails to amaze me with the variety and robustness of its flavours; this presents a delightful problem when I find myself wracked by indecision pretty much every time I order Nasi Padang. This eating style could very well be the first incarnation of fast food with rice and a dazzling array of delectable dishes served warm – not hot - so it can be scarfed down quickly. Situated on Kandahar Street in the original Malay enclave; this place serves up top-notch, authentic Nasi Padang at characteristically reasonable prices: a massive feast for two amounted to a mere $22.60.

The potent-looking Sambal was intimidating but turned out to be deliciously mild as the heat had been cooked out of the chillies. All that remained was the barest hint of heat resounding off a base of sweet onions and tart tomatoes.

Tahu Telor is my dieting kryptonite for I can never turn down this beautifully golden-brown construction. It is a pretty simple concept, firm bean curd coated with egg flash fried to a delicate, puffy crust before being slathered in sweet sauce. However, excellent technique and a brutal temperature gradient results in a wonderful layer of crispness lying right against a soft, creamy interior. The mind-blowing sauce is a flavour-packed concoction of peanuts, tamarind, kicap manis and chillies which soaks into the fluffy, porous egg layer as well as the julienned vegetable garnish. One must eat it quickly while it’s piping hot for the splendour fades once sogginess sets in!

The lynchpin of any rendang is the rempah or spice paste and this Beef Rendang has it down perfectly; fragrant notes of lemongrass and blue ginger mingle with candlenut richness and the tang of tamarind. Rendang usually tastes better after a day as the flavours assimilate into the meat but the generous chunks of beef were already bursting with it.

The Chicken Rendang was lacklustre next to the beef as chicken was not robust enough to take on the punchy spices so its own flavours were eclipsed rather than enhanced. It also came across as a little too oily.

Sayur Lodeh is another Malay staple that did not disappoint. The coconut gravy was satisfyingly rich and spicy, soaking deliciously into thick bean curd chunks and tender vegetables.

While I am hardly a fish lover, I was impressed by the Gulai Fish which was wonderfully creamy and spicy. The firm, meaty mackerel was an excellent choice to hold its own amidst the strong flavours and spices.

I strongly recommend washing all that down with the Lime Juice which is actually made from a concentrate of limau kasturi; a smaller, more fragrant cousin of the common lime. It is rather sweet and very refreshing with its deliciously distinctive floral note.

Crystal Jade Golden Palace

Crystal Jade Golden Palace – 290 Orchard Road, The Paragon #05-22

There's a certain allure to Chinese cuisine in a Western fine-dining setting; it brings to mind the old world grandeur of 60s Shanghai or Hong Kong under the British. This vicarious nostalgia serves as a potent flavour enhancer at Crystal Jade Golden Palace which serves up a set lunch at $68++ per pax with 2 options for each of seven courses.

The Peking Duck Roll represents one of the finer examples of Chinese cuisine, hitting the sweet spot in both taste and presentation. The robust flavours of gamey duck, rich and sweet hoisin sauce as well as a wedge of crunchy cucumber were neatly and elegantly packaged in a delicate crepe.

The Marinated Duck Fillet and Pork Knuckle Slices was delightfully sinful. The pillow soft and silky smooth bean curd was an exceptional backdrop for the sweet duck and gelatinous crunch of chilled, well-marbled pork.

The Double Boiled Seafood in a Coconut was one of the more unconventional items on the menu but proved every bit as amazing as the well-executed classics. The broth was delicate yet full of flavour and chock full of a myriad of luxuries like crunchy fish maw, sweet scallops and massive shrimp.

The Braised Superior Shark's Fin with Bamboo Pith and Scallops was an old mainstay given new life. The classical element was a superb stock with extra flavour lent by dried scallops and thickened just right. The generous amount of fin was crunchy and - a new twist here - the freshest shrimp I've had in a long time stole the show with their natural sweetness instead of the usual wisps of crab.

The Braised Seafood Casserole had a light and subtly flavoured gravy as a stage on which extremely fresh scallops and a lovely chewy-crunchy sea cucumber proved stunning.

I thoroughly enjoyed the Braised Abalone for this fine specimen of the coveted invertebrate was arguably perfectly cooked. At once soft and chewy with delicately sweet yet meaty flesh, it was a far sight better than the tough canned specimens I'm used to. The rich gravy also napped crunchy broccoli florets and delightfully musty shitake mushrooms.

The Steamed Cod Fillet with Shredded Meat in a Lotus Leaf was a parcel of beautifully intermingled flavours. The delicate flakes of rich fish had soaked in the lovely fragrance of the lotus leaf packaging while the meat was infused with heady Chinese wine notes.

The Baked King Prawn with Dried Halibut was every bit as impressive as it sounded, the prawn was massive! The dried halibut imparted a pleasant umami richness to the sauce and the spinach leaves were crisp.

Sauteed Scallops with Honey Peas and Lily Bulbs proved a minor disappointment. While the peas were sugary and plump, the onions semi-cooked to a delicious crunch and the lotus root chip intriguing; the dry, overcooked scallops spoilt an otherwise flawless picture.

The Braised Crab Meat Wrapped in an Egg White Crepe stretched the limits of ambition a little too far. The fishy combination of crab, prawn and water chestnuts just came across as odd.

The Fried Rice with Spinach Puree and Seafood was light and delicate with more extremely fresh, extremely sweet shrimp and scallops.

I've always loved Ee Fu noodles and the Stewed Ee Fu Noodles with Conpoy has my stamp of approval. The noodles have no flavour of their own and rely wholly on the stock base for character. The springy noodles in this case were bursting with it due to an excellent, richly nuanced stock containing cuttlefish among other things.

After catching a glimpse of it passing our table, we couldn't resist ordering some Crisp-Roasted Pork Belly ($10) before dessert. The amazingly crispy skin was not the least bit oily and the combination of rich marbling, tender meat and sharp mustard had me in toe-curling rapture.

The Mango Pudding was rich and melt-in-your-mouth but could've had a stronger mango flavour.

The Mashed Taro with Ginkgo was fantastic and perfectly small-portioned so the rich dessert did not overwhelm. The paste was smooth and not too sweet while much care had gone into removing the ginkgo stems so the nuts would not be bitter.

Tatsuya

Tatsuya – 22 Scotts Road, The Goodwoodpark Hotel

Tatsuya is all about the little details. Fish is air flown from Japan so that it is slightly better than the local stuff, the sushi chefs banter in Japanese to make the experience slightly more authentic, the elegant waitresses are clad in kimonos and shuffle daintily for something slightly more than merely excellent service. I do not question why some spend hundreds dining here so set lunches to the tune of $30 per person are something I couldn't pass up.

My Sashimi Unajyu Bento ($30.90) pleased both my inner neat freak and epicurean. Food could not be more organized than when presented in a bento with each dish neatly occupying its own partitioned space. Presentation aside, the food was perfectly choreographed to keep you riveted, largely classical with a few twists thrown in when you least expect them, to ensure the thought of putting your chopsticks down never crosses your mind.

Miso Soup was the typical starting point. Smoky and rich with a saltiness that did not overpower, the quality was evident from first sip.

Just when I thought I had it all figured out, the Yuzu Chawanmushi stepped in to blow my mind. The basics were in place with egg's texture perfectly smack in between solid and liquid, firm on the spoon but disintegrating on the tongue. It was on that foundation that magic was made, a bare touch of yuzu zest caused a floral, citrus bouquet to leap off the creamy platform and dazzle; a seemingly crazy concept that thrills as much as it pleasures.

The Tempuras were a deliciously balanced if brisk tour of the archetypal fritters: still-crunchy okra, shrimp that was as rich as it was sweet and sugary sweet potato. Each was wrapped in a robustly crisp but delicately feather-light crust that sealed in elements cooked to their absolute prime.

The Japanese Pickles were a great palate cleanser at this point. I love most pickles but rosy hued Japanese ginger would likely be my favourite of the lot; delightfully astringent, wonderfully tart and oh-so-gorgeous.

The Unagi Don was one thing I forced myself to slow down and savour; I could not stop myself from wolfing everything down thus far. Smoky and sweet, soft with hints of crispness; the eel had me in awe even before I had it on the amplifying canvas of fluffy rice grains glazed delicately with mirin.

I almost could not bear to eat the Sashimi. There was something so entrancingly beautiful about the translucent, glossy slices of raw fish that it stilled my chopsticks for a moment. The pillow soft tuna was not tough at all, bringing a union to meatiness and delicacy. The salmon was like the finest butter on my tongue and the unidentified white fish had a curiously gelatinous texture but so delicious with wasabi that was more sweet than hot.

My friend had the gorgeous Barachirashi Bento ($28), chunks of sashimi on rice like vivid blossoms studding an ivory garden. Described as peerlessly divine, the intrinsic flavours of fish were given depth and context by a light yuzu flavour infused into the rice.

It’s so pretty; I can’t help but include a close-up.

His sides were more or less the same save for an additional Potato Salad that was so good he refused to share!

Spruce Taqueria

Spruce Taqueria – 320 Tanglin Road, Phoenix Park

I've had a gnawing hunger for simple, no frills Mexican food since Taco Bell closed down; leaving tacos only available at mid-range restaurants and above. For a country priding itself in food mania, Singaporeans are sadly unreceptive to cuisines outside the Southeast Asian comfort zone. In any case, after a long wait, Spruce Taqueria has opened its doors to people sharing my ache for the taco stand concept. My cousin and I tried almost everything on the menu for a mere $42.

We started off with the day's special, a Crab Taco Set ($12) inclusive of 2 tacos and a drink. We found the crab a little on the fishy side but the crustacean proved a most welcome adoptive addition to the Mexican family. The delicate, sweet flesh was lent weight by the creamy guacamole while being simultaneously accentuated by a mild salsa as well as a refreshing combination of lime and cilantro; textural variety was accorded by crisp radish and lettuce. The side of nachos was delightfully crunchy and dangerously moreish. The tortillas could have been a fair bit thinner though.

The Watermelon and Lime Aqua Fresca (part of a set or $2 a la carte) was unusual to say the least. While one might expect the lime to dominate, it was actually watermelon juice with a hint of lime instead of the other way around. The citrus characteristic really only presented itself as a fragrance in this thirst quenching cooler.

We followed this with a Grilled Snapper Quesadilla Set ($9) and quickly found that these warm stuffed flatbreads were our preferred medium for flavour, truly outshining the tacos. The robust, meaty fish lends itself well to the bold flavours in the marinade while the textures were a lovely combination of soft flakes of fish, crisp char and chewy, gooey semi-molten cheese.

Yearning for more, we ordered a Pork Carnita Quesadilla($6) which satisfied with moist, tender chunks of pulled pork that proved extremely filling alongside the cheese.

We followed this immediately with a Poblano Chile Quesadilla ($6) which proved a much lighter alternative with the tangy salsa lent depth by earthy mushroom notes and the caramel of grilled peppers.

A bit of remaining space dictated our ordering a final Short Rib Quesadilla ($6), beef tongue was tragically unavailable. We were recommended to try this done extra spicy and it did not disappoint; it was firmly my favourite of the whole delicious lot. The divinely soft, medium-rare morsels were accorded sultry spicy warmth and accentuated by creamy cheese. This was THE quesadilla that finally sated my long-standing gnawing hunger for Mexican.

The Blue Ginger

The Blue Ginger – 97 Tanjong Pagar Road

My appetite for Peranakan food is proving insatiable so I paid the famed Blue Ginger restaurant a visit recently. The offerings were very lightly spiced, running against the grain of the robust flavours characteristic of this cuisine. As such, I would recommend the establishment to those trying such fare for the first time or to expatriates unaccustomed to spice; locals will likely be left unsatisfied. Dinner for 3 amounted to a total of $118.

The jury is still out regarding service here for I experienced a strong start but a very poor finish. My waiter was very earnest and proactive, also being able to supply us with quite a few recommendations and advise us on portion size. The plot thickens however; we just made last order and were eventually one of two occupied tables shortly after 10pm. I thought this would not present a problem as both my waiter and a sign outside indicated that the place was open till 11pm. Eventually, the other table cleared and – to my chagrin – the entire wait staff trooped out minutes later, leaving the lone manager casting baleful stares our way. I picked up my eating pace and murmured an apology but he didn’t even acknowledge it! His hostility and desire for us to leave was so tangible that we paid our bill and left despite being merely three-quarters through our meal, exiting the doors just before 10.30pm. We racked up a pretty substantial bill and left a full half-hour before closing time so I am truly at a loss as to how we triggered such aggression. In any case, the entire wait staff leaving while customers were still in the restaurant greatly disturbed me.

We started off with the Otak Otak ($3.20 for 2 pieces) which proved to be the only truly spicy dish of the spread. It had a very strong lemongrass flavour and a generous hit of chilli. The texture had room for improvement though as it was extremely firm, seeming almost like fishcake; it also lacked the rich, custardy-smoothness normally found in this dish as it didn’t contain much coconut milk.

The Duck Salad ($9) was not very well received at my table; too little of the mildly piquant dressing left the crisp alfalfa and bean sprouts rather bland. The fatty, under seasoned bits of duck on top of that guaranteed this was left largely untouched.

The Ngo Heong ($9.90) was very crisp on the outside and had all the right elements of water chestnut, pork mince and shrimp within. However, the filling was way too moist, coming across as being watery. The growingly characteristic mild spicing - a bare smidgen of 5 spice powder here - meant we relied on liberal amounts of sweet sauce to render it palatable.

The Beef Rendang ($11.50) proved to be one of the elusive winners of the evening. A delicious if light rempah had accorded the extremely tender chunks of beef with a subtle halo of flavour. This allowed the natural beefy accents to remain in focus, an unusual but gratifying experience.

I will never complain about Ayam Buah Keluak ($15.80) but I found the sizable pot of rather average stuff left largely to myself. The one thing that stood out to me was that the black nuts had been ground to an extremely fine, smooth paste.

The Chap Chye Masak Titek ($9.50) had a way too subtle flavour that left the extremely soft - perhaps overcooked - vegetables hanging on the threshold of blandness.

Nonya Style Tahu ($9.50) was not something I've tried before but turned out to be a distant cousin of my favourite tahu telor. The firm bean curd was fried to a delicate crispness and was accompanied by an intriguing sauce of fermented beans that was a little on the salty side.

Without a doubt, the Nonya Style Steamed Seabass ($28.80) was the piece de resistance of the evening. The fish was extremely fresh with lovely delicate flakes of flesh. The sauce was a most unusual rendition of a classic asam pedas for instead of tamarind, tomatoes accorded most of the slight acidity and a welcome degree of sweetness too. The lack of characteristic overwhelming heat and sourness allowed the wonderful fish to stand out as the key element, a typically Occidental tactic that worked astoundingly well.

We would have had dessert if it were not for the manager's evil-eyed stare, a real pity.