Taste Matters

Taste Matters – 501 Bukit Timah Road, C;uny Court #02-19

While I'd never say no to dining in a massive, fancy, Michelin-starred restaurant; it's in the little eateries that my heart truly lies. These holes-in-the-wall and corner shops are where you see dedicated people with a true passion and zeal for their craft, unmarred by commercialism and untainted by the money-grubbingness that plagues the big names and their investors. Taste Matters at Cluny Court is one of these little gems, started by Chef Richard Ang and his wife Janelle.

He led me - by my taste buds - through an orchard where the fruits of his labour, dreams and experience from as far afield as Macau lay sweet and ripe. For $28.70, I received not only a meal but a heart-warming experience I won't soon forget.

(If you're sharp, you might spot the "No Photography" warning which I was kindly exempted from.)

First up was a complimentary tasting of his frozen confections which began with Lavender Ice Cream. This I adored so much that I ordered a full serving with French Tuile. Intensely flowery, creamy and rich, it highlighted the characteristic boldness of flavour that all the desserts here share. Even the buttery Tuile was not left out; it had a speckling of black sesame for a robust Asian twist. The marked absence of a purple hue reveals Chef Richard's sincere approach to everything; he states proudly that no artificial colouring is used.

Second on the list was Sea Salt & Caramel Ice Cream, this time the intensity came from the delicious Japanese sea salt ice cream which bordered on being savoury; utterly lovely stuff.

Refreshing and sweet, the South African Gala Apple Sorbet surprised me with the depth of its apple flavour. Departing from its afterthought status behind cinnamon and clove in apple pies or sauce, the fruit takes the spotlight with its crisp sweetness.

Finishing the quartet was Yuzu Ice Cream. That's right yuzu ice cream, NOT sorbet. It was a real symbiosis of the usually disparate elements of acid and dairy. Resplendent with yuzu's heady yet refreshing perfume, it was light, creamy and tart all at the same time; not unlike frozen yoghurt when I think about it.

Gleefully, Chef Richard passed us a Sablé Breton Cookie each, explaining its etymology as “Sands of Brittany" due to its fine, sand-like crumbs. Be warned, these rich, buttery shortbread cookies are extremely moreish!

I could not resist the Crème Brûlée with its lovingly crisped burnt-sugar crust and intoxicating aroma. Very light and surprisingly close to liquidity, it was a welcome change from the cloyingly-rich custards one typically encounters. This would likely be as close to guiltlessness as crème brûlée could possibly get.

Unable to get enough yuzu - as usual - I opted for a Yuzu Curd Tart (and bundled home a freshly-baked lemon one). Once again robustly floral and citrusy, the tangy curd was couched by a classic buttery short crust base.

My dining partner (who's a regular and recommended the place) sipped on a freshly brewed Latte and I on an Americano as we chatted with Chef Richard about his richly aromatic and balanced coffee. No cutting of corners here, it takes him about three minutes from grinding to filtering, turning pure Arabica beans into caffeine-infused elixir.

Jones the Grocer

Jones the Grocer – 333A Orchard Road, #04-21/23 Mandarin Gallery

Few things can get me out of bed on a Saturday morning but the gorgeous oven-fresh pastries from Jones count among them. Piled on a row of uncovered platters at 9am, their rich perfume amalgam of butter and yeast quickly and luxuriously permeates the chic cafe. Thereafter, it wafts out to fill much of the top floor of Mandarin Gallery, luring droves in with an aroma so exquisite it borders on inhalant abuse.

Fret not, breakfast here doesn't cost an arm and a leg despite the location, a full breakfast and comprehensive selection of pastries for 2 cost $60.50.

I will not keep you in cruel trepidation; the crowning glory of the selection would - without a doubt - be the Croissants ($2.50 ea). Flaky and crisp on the outside, the delicate crust yields in a shower of golden-brown petals to reveal the richly buttery, subtly sweet and fluffy-feathery interior. The combination of crunch and airy softness, soft chew and indescribable fragrance renders it absolutely to die for, even without the thick strawberry preserve and generous pat of smooth butter served alongside.

A hop, skip and jump away is the Pain Au Chocolat ($3.50) which is essentially all that croissant glory enrobing amedi toscano black chocolate. Rich and robust, the chocolate tastes halfway between dark and milk chocolate with sufficient depth and character for my dark chocolate desires while possessing enough creamy sweetness for my firmly milk-chocolate-loving dining buddy.

The Blueberry Muffin ($4) is another must-try for it puts the usual gummy, artificial-flavoured, phoney-coloured knock-offs to shame. With a rich and crunchy crumble topping, dense and moist cake as well as thick, sweet blueberry jam filling practically bursting with fruity flavour; your first bite will reveal what you've been missing all this while.

Be warned, the cute, dainty Cupcakes ($4.50 ea) here are for those with a sweet tooth! All three share the same light vanilla sponge base but have different frostings. For one, the Raspberry Cupcake had a generous mound of decadently sweet buttercream with berries actually blended in for a natural flavour and the odd crunchy seed adding textural intrigue. A tart raspberry filling would've added a great deal in my opinion as the sweetness began to overwhelm a few bites into my half; my dining buddy seconded that between bites of his.

The waves of vivid yellow frosting on the Lemon Cupcake accorded it a truly delightful lemony fragrance. It was almost as sweet as its pink predecessor but a smidgeon less frosting meant it wasn't quite as cloying. A touch of tangy, palate-refreshing lemon curd would not be lost on it either. The strongest showing of the trio came from the Chocolate Cupcake. Rich and generously chocolatey, the thick and fudgy frosting totally hit the spot.

All that sugariness called for a savoury main as balance so we zeroed in on the Spanish Eggs en Cocotte ($19.50) supplemented with a side of Grilled Pork Sausages ($4). The bacon-crowned eggs were baked to firmness in a clay dish and napped in a sweet, subtly-flavoured tomato sauce that my dining buddy gleefully mopped up with the thick slices of crusty bread it was served with.

With a satisfied sigh, he washed all that down with a Mocha Mudslide ($7). Sweet, milky and chocolatey with a relatively mild dose of caffeine, this creamy drink was his perfect fix.

Requiring some rocket fuel as usual, an Affogato ($6.50) was my obvious choice and I've been craving another since! Espresso and vanilla ice cream are really a match made in heaven, especially when the former is electric-shock strong and the latter a velvety caress for a true harmony of opposites. Not too sweet and wonderfully thick, this was a world of bliss in a tiny cup.

Au Petit Salut

Au Petit Salut – 40C Harding Road, Tanglin Village (Dempsey)

There's something to be said about good food in a gorgeous setting. The same cuisine is somehow transported to a whole new level when savoured within a tranquil sanctuary or before a breathtaking vista.

Au Petit Salut is one place that takes full advantage of its beautiful Dempsey Road location. Just reserve an al fresco table, fork out $48++ for an executive set lunch and prepare yourself for one of life's most exquisite pleasures.

The amuse bouche Bread Basket was as good as bread baskets get. The warm rolls were fluffy and soft beneath a crunchy crust while the lovely chewy ciabatta was gorgeous with an indulgent smear of sweet butter.

Thick, rich and creamy, the Lobster Bisque with Tarragon and Lobster Ravioli was a concentrated reduction of crustacean flavour that's so intense it clouded all the other senses momentarily.

With a supplement of $5, I indulged on Pan Seared Duck Foie Gras with Baby Spinach and Onions in Xeres Sauce as my starter. Done daringly rare, the exterior was delicately crisp, breaking apart to yield a truly semi-solid and luxuriously creamy interior. The Xeres sauce was a tad salty though.

The third member of my lunch trio went for the Set Lunch ($30) and started off with Sliced Vine Ripened Roma Tomatoes with Mozzarella Cheese and Balsamic Vinegar. It was a well-executed if typical Caprese Salad with remarkably sweet tomatoes.

The focus of Crispy French Duck Confit with Sauteed Potatoes, Bacon and Mixed Greens with Walnut Dressing was strangely not the duck. The flavour-packed walnut oil was an attention-grabbing change from overused extra virgin olive oil, possessing oodles more character besides. Mealy potatoes were excellent with sinful cubes of pork crackling nestled amongst them if the crisp duck skin was not decadent enough. Ladies and Gents, leave that calorie counter at home.

Pan Seared Beef Tenderloin with Shallot Confit and Mashed Potatoes in Red Wine Sauce was perhaps the show-stealer at a supplement of $5. A tender medium left the magnificent cut of meat with good bite while the buttery mash cradled the sweet caramelised onions like a lover in its silky smooth arms.

The set meal came with a less flamboyant but no less gratifying Shredded Confit of Lamb with Shallots, Carrots, Celery and Mashed Potato. An excellent Shepherd's Pie, the sweet and creamy mash was delightfully crisped at the top. Its filling was a peerless lamb stew, herby and brimming with ovine flavour; the concentrated nectar of a stock definitely deserves credit. All that soaked into the lower layers of mash which sealed the casserole, turning it into a luxuriously buttery, rosemary-accented and lamb-infused gloop.

Desserts were much anticipated and proved every bit as divine as the past courses. Light and generously citrussy, the Orange and Grand Marnier Soufflé was eggy and custardy if not exactly smooth in consistency. Wonderfully puffed up and golden brown, it was really quite breathtaking.

An even greater guilty pleasure was the Warm Melted 70% Chocolate Cake with 64% Chocolate Sorbet, Red Currant Jam & Pistachio Nuts. The cake was excellent even with jaded lava cakes now increasingly ubiquitous. Moist and rich, the spongy outer layer yielded to reveal a particularly thick and chocolatey ganache which was balanced by the vivid currant reduction. Next to that, the sorbet seemed a tad thin though.

The set lunch's Creme Brulee with Madagascar Vanilla Bean was served cold but magnificent otherwise. A surprisingly liberal speckling of vanilla beans accorded a delightful depth of vanilla flavour to the thick custard. The crisp layer of burnt sugar was quite thick, lending a lovely caramel warmth and liberal sweetness to all that creaminess.

Prego

Prego – 80 Bras Basah Road, Level 1 Fairmont Singapore

The buffet is a boon for the indecisive individual and it is not unusual for me to find myself unable to whittle my cravings down to the single thing I desire the most. That said, dime-a-dozen, garden-variety buffets don't cut it with their spreads of average fare.

Now, Prego is anything but average with its Olympic-length dessert table and ever-changing yet consistently impressive Occidental offerings. Sure, it's a little pricey at about $70++ a head for Sunday Brunch ($90++ for the Champagne Brunch option) but it more than deserves its status as top choice when I can't make up my mind; I know I'll always leave happily fed.

The only constant is the amuse bouche of crusty, soft and wonderfully chewy Foccacia with a lovely herby, sweet-sour tomato dip reminiscent of gazpacho. Resist the significant urge to fill up on it and save that space to do the mains justice.

I always make a beeline for Oysters whenever I see them. The truth is in the sniffing and these creamy, medium-sized specimens are invariably fresh, smelling cleanly of saltwater and nothing else. Other cold starters include Poached Veal Carpaccio with a delicate bite, milky richness and excellent creamy aioli as well as an Octopus Confit that balanced the meaty orange octopus chunks with sharp fennel on a potato salad base. More conventional was the moist, firm, no-nonsense Frittata and lovely Beef Carpaccio with Rocket. I rounded off my appetizers with Duck and Lentil Salad in which mealy green lentils soaked up gamey duck flavour beautifully.

Now on to the hot stuff. The Gorgonzola Polenta blew my mind with its perfect robustness that stopped just short of being overpowering, exactly like the cheese used in it. Rich and creamy, it was flavour-packed, complete with nutty sweetness and that signature Gorgonzola pungency. The Roasted Vegetables were more interesting than most with lovingly blistered peppers, crunchy celery and tender zucchini.

The Lamb T-Bone in Marsala Pepper was done to a tender medium and napped in a mild, smoky-sweet pepper sauce. Both the Turkey Piccata in Porcini Cream and Beef Rolls Braised with Bacon and Spinach in Port were a tad overcooked and had subtly-flavoured sauces. In contrast, the potent seafood stock of the Seafood Soup set an excellent stage for buttery cod and crunchy shrimp while the Malloreddus Pasta with Pork Sausage, Cherry Tomatoes and Pecorino had a lovely ragù brimming with meaty weight albeit lacking Pecorino richness.

Seconds called for a visit to the carving station and its gorgeous Leg of Lamb, all soft and fragrant with rosemary. The Roast Ribeye had its touch of dryness more than remedied by a gloriously beefy and subtly sweetish gravy. A selection of oven-fresh Thin-Crust Pizzas also beckoned with the richly Umami mushroom and bell pepper partly outshone by a bewilderingly herby onion, bacon and garlic.

Now on to the mind boggling array of desserts! The Pistachio Opera dazzled with a robust pistachio flavour and a lingering note of apricot topped off with rich coffee cream. The shotglass of tart Mango Mousse was superb when counter-balanced by a creamy custard layer.

Crisp and light, the Deep Fried Cannoli was dusted with powdered sugar and laced with a lip-smackingly tart berry coulis. However, the Profiteroles were what stole the show with soft, chewy choux and rich custard filling all encased in a thin, crunchy-sticky caramel shell.

A close second was an unlabelled chocolate confection which I suspect was Panforte. A lovechild of chewy nougat and rich cookie, it was resplendent with pistachios, almonds and macadamias.

Wait, there's more! The Financiers were dangerously sweet with syrup-moistened dense semolina cake crowned with sugary meringue. The Cheese Cake was also quite sweet though redeemably rich if reserved in terms of flavour.

I adored the buttery, dense pastry of the raisin-studded Pear Tart as well as the sweet, thick berry paste of the Rote Grute.

A delicious spiced bread and gorgeous custard with visible vanilla beans warranted a second serving of the Bee Sting while the Bread and Butter Pudding proved a true classic. I finished off with a Peach Strudel that had uncharacteristically un-flaky pastry.

Would you believe me if I said I didn't get round to trying a host of other desserts like Chocolate Creme Brulee, Tiramisu and Raspberry Chocolate Cake? Maybe I'll start with dessert next time...

2am:dessertbar, back for more!

2am: dessertbar – 21A Lorong Liput, Holland Village

For the frequency with which I visit 2am:dessertbar, I don't blog about the place nearly enough. I could wax lyrical ad infinitum about the avant garde desserts presented so gorgeously that you can't bear to eat them and which blow your preconceptions of dessert archetypes to smithereens when you do. Chef Janice seems to specialise in taking the immutable and turning it on its head. The service is among the best I've experienced with a distinct personal touch that makes this über-chic joint ooze with warmth, something typically impossible. But as I said, 2am:dessertbar is anything but typical.

For a good overview of what they have to offer, I recommend the 4x4. A painstakingly crafted menu of 4 desserts, each paired with a wine that alters and amplifies; taking the wonderful into the realm of magical. Cab Fare: $12. Meal for two: $107.80. Experiencing untold pleasure: Priceless.

We started off with a delightful surprise of Yuzu and Paprika Chocolates, compliments of Chef Derrick. My dining partner's expression of combined bliss and wonderment pretty much sums up the combined effect of Yuzu and Chocolate with that floral citrus tang balancing smooth bitter chocolate. The 2 little lumps of gold did not even last long enough to be photographed. The bronze ore below is Paprika Chocolate, a first for me which threatens the supremacy of chilli chocolate in my book. The spice adds a robust smokiness and heat just shy of being too intense that accentuates the equally dominant chocolate flavours.

The first course on the menu was Purple, a violet and indigo caterpillar of sweet, rich purple potato purée, thick blackberry parfait, tangy fruits of the forest sorbet and leather lavender marshmallows that lap at the palate like creamy-crested waves of tranquillity.

The dessert's fruit and flower theme was upheld in the wine pairing of Kir Royale, a combination of 1+1=3 Cava Rosé and Crème de Cassis. The blackcurrant liquor gave the sparkling wine a dose of added character and a gorgeous, seductive finish.

Course number two was a sweet-savoury masterpiece called Popcorn. Various creamy mounds offered sporadic flashes of simple flavours like peanut butter and freshly toasted bread while a pile of crispy rubble turned out to be salty crumbled popcorn. Dill flowers were fragrant, herby bursts in the delightful tangle which was finally underwritten by a scoop of yuzu sorbet. If the individual elements were wonderful deconstructions of familiar food, having them all together smashes all notions previously held for a bewildering sensorial rush.

The pairing of Prophet's Rock Pinot Gris 2007 was a stabilizing juxtaposition. Amidst the beautiful chaos of Popcorn, its clean finish and ample acidity clears your head and sharpens the focus of your taste buds for yet another psychedelic high.

It was my friend's firm favourite but - to me - the jury's still out on the Vinegar Chocolate Table. Intense and sharp, the vinegar in the vinegar chocolate mousse totally eclipses all else for a lip-pursing, shiver-inducing experience. It grew a little cloying after the first few mouthfuls though. The crispy caramel morsels were pleasant albeit embedded in the mousse, as was the chocolate 'table' all that was under.

Paired with that is an equally sharp Tintoralba Garnacha Syrah 2007. Deliberately allowed to oxidise excessively, the wine balances a hair's breadth away from vinegar; complete with that potent, vinegary smell.

Compliments of Chef Derrick once again (Am I spoiled or what?) was a Trio of Sorbets. Apparently he notices the joy written plain on my face every time I tuck into his frozen creations. I've yet to find another lemon sorbet with acid and sugar in such perfect balance and ice crystals as fine as his, parting soft and smooth in each snowy mouthful. The blood orange balls were far less sour but with an intense floral note, it was utterly magnificent stuff. Even more intriguing was the grapefruit with its tart and bitter undertones; studded with what seemed like grapefruit marshmallows. It contrasted two different kinds of softness; that of yielding semi-solid sorbet and chewy, spongy sugary confection.

Finishing things off with a bang was my favourite of the quartet, Alpaco Chilli Chocolate - generously spiced chocolate with peanut butter and wheat ice cream. Scorching chilli padi heat renders taste buds tender and sensitive only to be summarily flooded by the sensorial overload of rich, dark chocolate. The rush you get likely outstrips that of strapping yourself to a rocket. For wimps, the lovely, creamy ice cream is always on hand to douse a chilli inferno. We couldn't restrain ourselves so the pic below is actually of a slightly eaten dessert!

This was paired with Valdivia Pedro Ximenez, a syrupy nectar that similarly threatens to overwhelm; this time with sugary intensity. Thick honeyed notes cling to the tongue for a lingering luxuriant finish.

Choupinette

Choupinette – 607 Bukit Timah Road #01-01

Ah, the joys of a French Cafe. Tucked in a little nook along Bukit Timah, Choupinette is a cosy eatery with a bare handful of tables and chairs that are virtually always filled. A largely expatriate crowd typically gathers for leisurely weekend brunches, picking up a gorgeous loaf of freshly baked bread from a sizable variety in wall-mounted baskets on their way out. Prices are consequently significantly above the norm though you are paying for quality, brunch for 2 amounted to $92.40.

If the Bread Basket amuse bouche was anything to go by, I'll be back for a loaf of bread soon. Soft, airy and light, it had a gorgeous chewy yet yielding crust.

Oddly, the coffee that came with my brunch set (described later) came first. I found the Doppio Espresso of middling strength, pleasant yet not the rocket fuel I typically favour.

I could not go without an a-la-carte Le Croque Monsieur ($17), a French working-class signature of a grilled ham sandwich cloaked in molten cheese. The generous amount of shaved ham had been lovingly crisped at the edges and stuffed between slices of fluffy white bread. Now, bursting at the seams, it is plugged and sealed in a sheath of mild cheese – Emmental's my guess - for an exquisitely decadent result.

Following this, I found true love in the scandalously-priced Eggs Benedict Set ($20). At ten bucks an egg, the bar was set extremely high but it was arguably met. The eggs were absolutely perfect with a fragile, just-solid white holding a liquid yolk together. They were clearly fresh as my first yolk slithered out of the white still whole, oozing gooey golden goodness only when prodded. The Hollandaise napping it was pretty much the best I've ever had; rich and creamy without being too heavy, it was balanced by the most delicate lemon tang. I doubt I could've returned a cleaner plate once I was done mopping the drippings with crusty bread.

The set came with a very light, mildly-flavoured Cranberry Juice which was daintily tart and not too bitter.

My dining partner started off with Le Gazpacho de Monsieur Jason ($11). Thick, sweet and mildly herbaceous, it was perfectly refreshing on what was a hot, muggy day.

He then moved onto the Papi's Set ($36) which set the stage with a Salad de Mélange of super sweet, orange-hued cherry tomatoes and lightly dressed crisp greens.

Course two was a much anticipated Daube Provencal avec de Frites or Provencal-style beef stew with homemade fries. The beef was excellently done in my opinion, retaining a semblance of bite just shy of being melt-in-your-mouth. With tender, sweet carrots and a wealth of flavour from a generous amount of shallots, it easily induced sighs of pleasure.

All that was washed down with Grapefruit Juice that was as light and clean-tasting as the earlier cranberry. Neither too sweet nor too sour, it was pleasantly balanced.

The set is rounded off with any dessert from their repertoire and we went for a dramatic Cream Puff about the size of a rugby ball. This proved to be the one weak link though; the custard filling was delightfully creamy and subtly sweet but proved way too much for one to attempt to finish alone. Furthermore, the choux pastry was dry and almost hard, a far cry from the soft chew I'm used to.