There's a certain allure to Chinese cuisine in a Western fine-dining setting; it brings to mind the old world grandeur of 60s
The Peking Duck Roll represents one of the finer examples of Chinese cuisine, hitting the sweet spot in both taste and presentation. The robust flavours of gamey duck, rich and sweet hoisin sauce as well as a wedge of crunchy cucumber were neatly and elegantly packaged in a delicate crepe.
The Marinated Duck Fillet and Pork Knuckle Slices was delightfully sinful. The pillow soft and silky smooth bean curd was an exceptional backdrop for the sweet duck and gelatinous crunch of chilled, well-marbled pork.
The Double Boiled Seafood in a Coconut was one of the more unconventional items on the menu but proved every bit as amazing as the well-executed classics. The broth was delicate yet full of flavour and chock full of a myriad of luxuries like crunchy fish maw, sweet scallops and massive shrimp.
The Braised Superior Shark's Fin with Bamboo Pith and Scallops was an old mainstay given new life. The classical element was a superb stock with extra flavour lent by dried scallops and thickened just right. The generous amount of fin was crunchy and - a new twist here - the freshest shrimp I've had in a long time stole the show with their natural sweetness instead of the usual wisps of crab.
The Braised Seafood Casserole had a light and subtly flavoured gravy as a stage on which extremely fresh scallops and a lovely chewy-crunchy sea cucumber proved stunning.
I thoroughly enjoyed the Braised Abalone for this fine specimen of the coveted invertebrate was arguably perfectly cooked. At once soft and chewy with delicately sweet yet meaty flesh, it was a far sight better than the tough canned specimens I'm used to. The rich gravy also napped crunchy broccoli florets and delightfully musty shitake mushrooms.
The Steamed Cod Fillet with Shredded Meat in a Lotus Leaf was a parcel of beautifully intermingled flavours. The delicate flakes of rich fish had soaked in the lovely fragrance of the lotus leaf packaging while the meat was infused with heady Chinese wine notes.
The Baked King Prawn with Dried Halibut was every bit as impressive as it sounded, the prawn was massive! The dried halibut imparted a pleasant umami richness to the sauce and the spinach leaves were crisp.
Sauteed Scallops with Honey Peas and Lily Bulbs proved a minor disappointment. While the peas were sugary and plump, the onions semi-cooked to a delicious crunch and the lotus root chip intriguing; the dry, overcooked scallops spoilt an otherwise flawless picture.
The Braised Crab Meat Wrapped in an Egg White Crepe stretched the limits of ambition a little too far. The fishy combination of crab, prawn and water chestnuts just came across as odd.
The Fried Rice with Spinach Puree and Seafood was light and delicate with more extremely fresh, extremely sweet shrimp and scallops.
I've always loved Ee Fu noodles and the Stewed Ee Fu Noodles with Conpoy has my stamp of approval. The noodles have no flavour of their own and rely wholly on the stock base for character. The springy noodles in this case were bursting with it due to an excellent, richly nuanced stock containing cuttlefish among other things.
After catching a glimpse of it passing our table, we couldn't resist ordering some Crisp-Roasted Pork Belly ($10) before dessert. The amazingly crispy skin was not the least bit oily and the combination of rich marbling, tender meat and sharp mustard had me in toe-curling rapture.
The Mango Pudding was rich and melt-in-your-mouth but could've had a stronger mango flavour.
The Mashed Taro with Ginkgo was fantastic and perfectly small-portioned so the rich dessert did not overwhelm. The paste was smooth and not too sweet while much care had gone into removing the ginkgo stems so the nuts would not be bitter.
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