Le Bistrot Du Sommelier

Le Bistrot Du Sommelier – 46 Prinsep Street #01-01 Prisep Place

A stone’s throw away from Orchard Road lies a nondescript row of shophouses where Singapore’s best kept French secret may lie. Le Bistrot Du Sommelier’s kitchen is helmed by Chef Patrick Heuberger - formerly of the famed Au Petit Salut - while impeccable service is rendered by enchanting Frenchwoman Charlotte Meunier. Expect a delightful evening of hearty French fare (no pretentious, tiny portions here) at a price higher than most are willing to pay but well worth it in my opinion; a 4-course dinner for two with wine came up to $163.

Duck Rilettes ($13.50) would be the French answer to corned beef. The gamey taste of duck was almost imperceptible in the generous strips of rich, salty meat. With gherkins as a flawless foil and Italian parsley for fragrance, the duck was pure bliss on thick slices of crusty baguette.

It is white asparagus season now so I could not pass up the chance at White Asparagus with Hollandaise and Ham ($35), typifying the French treatment of vegetables in the most luxurious fashion. The pale spears were delightfully tender and sweet while the Hollandaise was rich and seductively smooth, perfectly balanced with a lemony acidity that was not a disparate element but in harmony with the creaminess. The shaved ham – though good – was completely eclipsed.

My dining partner opted for the Ouglet de Boeuf aux Ichalotes ($26), a pan seared beef ouglet (a cut from the chest) with shallots, garlic and French fries. The unusual cut turned out to be rather similar to brisket with a meaty bite almost to the point of toughness at times. Deliciously caramelised shallots with a generous hit of garlic provided comforting, familiar tones of flavour that oozed with the warmth of home-style cooking. The fries seemed out of place as a result but worked well in mopping up the drippings, thicker-cut spuds would have been better though.

Le Bistrot Du Sommelier has many seasonal off-menu items that are well worth inquiring about, such as my Cou De Cochon a la Moutarde ($32). The generous cut of pork neck was deliciously tender with a delicate layer of crisp char. The lovely pinkish meat had a layer of fat explosive with sinful, porky richness and was coated in a superbly balanced mustard cream sauce with herby accents including thyme and garlic primarily. If that were not enough to bowl me over, it was accompanied by the smoothest, buttery mash conceivable.

Charlotte recommended a wine pairing of Krey Perrieres’06 from their massive wine menu (the establishment’s name is not for nothing). I was in for a treat from this light French red with the slightest hint of tannin, moderate fruitiness and a clean finish. While good yet unremarkable by itself (I still need to brush up on my wine appreciation), it opened up a whole new depth of flavour alongside the creamy pork.

Tragically, my dining partner and I had space for but one dessert so after much deliberation, we settled on the Profiteroles au Chocolate ($12) which was a big part of the reason for our visit in the first place. Profiteroles are usually a disappointment of sogginess and cloying creaminess lacking any flavour whatsoever. Le Bistrot Du Sommelier’s take – while not classical – delivered a layered combination of varied textures, temperatures and flavours. Between the crisp choux pastry and crunchy almond flakes at room temperature, semi-solid vanilla ice cream and warm chocolate sauce, a glorious sensory explosion of nuclear proportions is delivered in every mouthful. I was in a quandary between taking a moment to stop to savour it and wolfing down another mouthful, an excruciating pleasure one does not often face.