Tucked away in the upper-middle class neighbourhood of Greenwood along Bukit Timah, Café Iguana is a Mexican-themed bar and restaurant with good food in a laidback atmosphere. Service is prompt, attentive and personal; the wait-staff had initiative and were alert to when we were sharing, providing side plates without request. Dinner for 3 came up to $134.55 after a 15% discount courtesy of Citibank.
Complimentary Tortilla Chips were served warm with piquant, smoky salsa that – while flavourful – could have done with a little more heat. We couldn’t resist a side order of creamy Guacamole ($3.99) that was a little on the salty side, nevertheless we asked for a refill of it.
To get the party started, we ordered a jug of house-pour Margarita ($18 11am-3pm, $26 3pm-6pm, $34 6pm-8pm, $50 8pm-11pm, $34 11pm-closing) which was a good mix of sweet and sour but sorely lacked tequila kick; a drink for designated drivers and teetotallers.
Camarones al Diablo ($18.99) was an intimidating-sounding dish composed of massive, crunchy prawns napped in a lip-smackingly tangy and spicy sauce. We wiped our plates clean with soft jalapeno-stuffed corn crepes. While one may not traditionally associate seafood with Mexican cuisine; that might soon change if word gets out about these devilishly good camarones.
The Green Chile Stew ($14.99) left an impression as a sensational creation of pulled pork in a thick, richly-spiced gravy. Eaten with soft, buttery pilaf or stuffed into thin flour tortillas, it was nothing less than the epitome of Mexican comfort food.
The Shredded Steak Chimichangas ($19.99) were massive, stuffed to bursting point with tender chunks of perfectly marinated beef and crowned with a generous dollop of sour cream.
The White Cod Tequila Grill ($28.99) was a tad overdone but pleasantly fatty and well infused with the secret tequila marinade. The squash, onion and bell pepper kebab as well as potatoes and corn provided sweet and starchy reprieve from the richness of the generous portion of oil-rich fish.
The Ancho Chile Chocolate Cake ($11.99) was true to its Mexican raw-cocoa roots: rich, chocolatey and not very sweet. It might have been a little dry if not for the sizable scoop of creamy vanilla ice cream with actual specks of vanilla bean visible in the semi-frozen ball; no artificial-flavour subterfuge at this establishment.
The Soppapilla ($10.99) was a bit of Mexican magic delivered right to our table. When flour tortillas are deep-fried, they undergo a metamorphosis; puffing up into crispy, robust pastry that is just divine when served generously honeyed, dusted with cinnamon and topped off with the aforementioned vanilla ice cream. It is only with great effort that I do not wax lyrical about its rich, creamy goodness again!
Greenwood Fish Market & Bistro – 34 Greenwood Avenue Hillcrest Park
This visit I paid Greenwood will be my last. It was not the undecided food quality (dishes were an even mix of hits and misses) or above-average pricing ($141 for 2) that did me in but the singularly abysmal service that ruined my lunch. I find it a real shame that a concept with such potential could be ruined so utterly.
The Seafood Chowder ($8.95) was thinner than traditional but therefore does not leave one too full, a good soup to whet the appetite by any account. The flavorful broth contained a good variety of seafood.
Oysters ($1 each with any main ordered on Tuesdays) were a mix of massive, creamy specimens and skinnier ones that were brimming with mineral flavour. All two dozen save one were so fresh that a dash of hot sauce or a spritz of lemon was not necessary. Tragically, my penultimate oyster was one of the worst things to ever enter my mouth: a bad oyster can only be described as a supremely noxious rotten egg thrown into the sea.
The dressing of the Swordfish Carpaccio ($15.95) brought out the meatiness of a fish usually broiled or grilled to cardboard dryness and flavourlessness. On a bed of crisp greens, this was a lesson in flavour marriage I might try to decipher and replicate.
Nestled in buttery garlic mashed potatoes and crowned with sweet, crunchy vegetables, the beautifully assembled Grilled Salmon ($21.95) was a deception. Overcooking at too gentle a temperature gradient resulted in a tough, dry interior and a lack of crisp sear.
The Pan-fried Ocean Trout ($29.95) outperformed its genetic cousin by a long shot with a good crisp skin and an almost steak-like meatiness. Its subtle richness was well complemented with a sweet and tangy side salad.
I predicted that the Pineapple Cheesecake ($9.95) would have a flavour profile similar to a pina colada with acidity from the pineapple cutting through a cloyingly heavy cake. However, it surprised me as a cross between a light New York Style cheesecake and a pineapple tart as the cooked fruit had lost any acidity and instead lent the dessert a rich caramel.
The Brownie ($8.85) was unremarkable if rather dry until I discovered what appeared to be a bit of charcoal in the cake. This was where the unfortunate turn of events really began, turning a meal of minor speed bumps into a flaming car crash. The sizable black speck was visibly darker than the surrounding brown, powdery and very bitter so I asked the waiter if my cake was a little burnt in as discreet and jovial a manner as possible. Instead of apologising or offering to replace the dish, the irate manager whom the waiter had consulted virtually bellowed condescendingly that it was obviously a marshmallow. I was taken aback, speechless and just shy of angry but didn’t want to cause a scene; letting it slide without a word. Outrage aside, if one was attempting to mimic the effect of marshmallows in s’mores; shouldn’t the candy be molten and gooey as opposed to burnt to a cinder?
Julien Bompard – 2 Finlayson Green, 2nd Floor of The Ascott
Julien Bompard Restaurant is a fine example of dining that is as exquisite as it is practical. Its extensive a-la-carte menu includes fine-dining trademarks like foie gras but it also offers a no-nonsense daily breakfast catering to the needs of tenants at The Ascott serviced suites where it is situated. This final port of call on my restaurantweek journey put a spin on the hitherto ‘fixed menu’ concept by offering additional options at extra charge to both supplement and embellish the already seductive set. The meal came up to about $280 for a table of 3; the decision to go for a few more items and wine on top of the $55 per pax restaurantweek set was certainly one we did not regret.
I must state that the service was truly exceptional with staff going the extra mile and beyond. They generously accommodated our request for a table with good lighting by placing us in a semi-private room, gave in-depth wine recommendations tailored to our choice of mains and a blow-by-blow explanation of each course. The clincher was Edith Lai-Bompard herself lending a personal touch to the meal by visiting our table with anecdotal hints of how to best savour each dish. This made for a most wonderful evening and illustrates how service is such an integral part of the dining experience, something many establishments fail to realise.
The bread was served a little too cold in my opinion, even if it is not oven-fresh, I tend to like mine toasted to create the illusion that it is? That said, the cranberry bread was amazing with the glorious pat of French butter. I could sing the praises of French butter till the cows come home! Once you’ve had some, there is no going back to the old stuff; I always have some Echiré in my chilled drawer. The wholemeal or sourdough was good if less fantastic than the cranberry, it was in mopping up the sauce from subsequent courses that it truly shone.
We opted for a supplement of a Half Dozen Shucked French Oysters to be served first. Before they arrived, we were warned that French waters lend a strong mineral flavour to the shellfish and to brace ourselves for it. On sight, another French characteristic was evident: like the archetypal Frenchman, these were scrawny little buggers! They were not fantastic in my book flavour-wise for I prefer mine fat and creamy like the Canadians I favour. The mineral taste was not exactly off-putting and there was really nothing to complain about but by that same token there was nothing to shout about either.
The shallot vinegar they were served with was good if predictable but I absolutely adored their nifty little lemon press!
Next up was the eagerly anticipated Slow Cooked Egg with Black Truffle; this meticulously prepared dish involved the gradual poaching of an egg for 3 hours, napping it in a creamy bacon infusion and showering it with black truffle shavings. In a dramatic escape attempt (perhaps the eggs were free-range…), the yolk slipped free of the white, slid off my spoon and plopped back onto my plate, indicating that the eggs were extremely fresh as it retained its shape without breaking into a gooey mess. The bacon infusion was so delightfully strong that I half expected to feel the crunch of crispy rashers but was treated to silky-smooth cream instead. None of this unabashedly sinful nectar was wasted as we mopped up every last drop with our second basket of bread! The truffle shavings seemed superfluous as virtually no truffle notes were discernible amidst the smoky, porky flavour. It did make for a gorgeous raven contrast to the pale cream sauce and egg though!
A second supplement was in store for us before the mains arrived, Escargot in Red Wine and Garlic Butter. I found the unusually large invertebrates a little overcooked and chewy but in a lovely, sweet heady sauce that would have benefitted from a slightly stronger garlic flavour.
The Braised Lamb Rump with Ratatouille and Garlic & Rosemary Sauce was soft and moist without being yielding as lean rump cuts do not quite have the marbling to achieve the melt-in-your-mouth effect. My portion had not quite absorbed the flavour of the braising liquid as is evident from the pink tinge in the picture below. My friend’s on the other hand was a uniform rich brown and the piece she snuck onto my plate could only be described as having soaked up the rosemary herbiness and garlic pungency like a sponge, it was fantastic. When I mentioned this disparity to Edith when she dropped by, she explained that it could be attributed to separate sous-vide pouches. I had had my first sous-vide experience without even realising it!
For the uninitiated, sous-vide cooking involves exposing the ingredient to the eventual internal temperature you want it to be at for a long time as opposed to a far higher temperature for a short time. This has to be done under carefully controlled circumstances as the lower temperatures would allow any bacteria to multiply rapidly; the radical focus of this method is to bring out the flavours and textures in the ingredient and not simply cauterize it as in regular cooking. If done right, the almost horizontal temperature gradient results in perfectly cooked meats of virtually uniform texture and doneness. Imagine a steak that is completely, perfectly medium rare; sous-vide Wagyu is all the rage for good reason.
My other friend who had the Snapper with Provencal Escabêche, Basil Oil and Balsamic Vinegar described it as excellently seared though a little on the dry side. The vegetables it was served with also did not quite complement the fish apparently.
The Chilled Apple Tart with Olive Ice Cream and Caramelized Almond Coulis was a harmony of almond nuttiness and caramel richness refreshed with tartness from the surrounding berries. Oddly, any sourness and much of the flavour had been cooked out of the apples, rendering it a curious vessel for the other flavours instead. Indeed, this was a deliciously devious dessert in the guise of an apple tart! It was explained that the tart base was not a pastry of any kind but an ingenious paste of nuts and chocolate. The ice-cream was a rebel too, putting a spin on the traditional a-la-mode concept with an olive oil infusion. However, the mere smidgeon layered below the apples did not brook any investigation.
Takumi Tokyo – 2 Keppel Bay Vista, #02-01 Marina at Keppel Bay, Singapore
Takumi Tokyo is nestled in the gorgeous KeppelBay, offering Japanese fine dining for those willing to fork out staggering amounts (~$180) for it. As such, lunching here at a mere $25 per person - thanks once again to the geniuses behind restaurantweek - was an opportunity I pounced on. I must say that if this meal was a true indication of this restaurant’s standards, the adage “a fool and his money are soon parted” could not ring more true.
We received a warm, friendly reception when we arrived early to an empty restaurant, lunch was not ready and we had to wait. The chef struck up a conversation with us, explaining his background and expressing delight at my friend residing near his hometown in Japan while she was living there.
Alas, the first faux pas was just ahead: no menu! (I have improvised dish names in this review.) Suddenly, all the food arrived in ominous covered black bento boxes and while I’m as fond of surprises as the next guy, this was not a good move; even if the food had been amazing. Lunch - in my opinion – should be an enjoyable, relaxed affair, not something out of a Tom Clancy thriller.
I went for the Vegetable Tempura first, hoping to eat this crispy Japanese signature while at its piping hot prime. To my horror, the vegetable fritter was stone cold! While still crispy, it seemed like my portion had been made hours ago instead of the fifteen minutes we had just waited for it to be prepared. To be fair, the vegetables themselves were good variety of sugary sweet potatoes and savoury patties fried just right if a little on oily side.
After that disappointment, I turned to the beautifully garnished Unagi Don to salvage the meal. In Japanese cuisine, this staple can make or break the meal with Japanese chef-apprentices spending months attempting to perfect it. I will make a final lamentation about the temperature; my entire bento had been rendered frigid by this point due to the air-conditioning. Perhaps serving all the courses together could be a design flaw as cold sushi or soba is good while cold don or tempura is not. However - and a big however at that – the rice was probably the one consolation of the entire meal. The fluffy, fragrant grains were delicately flavoured with the subtle nuances of piquant ginger pickles balancing the rich, caramelly unagi that had been boned and chopped; a smart move as this ensured no pesky bones interrupted the pillow-soft mouthfeel.
My confidence bolstered, I tried the deceptively beautiful Steamed Root Vegetables next but was disappointed once again. A bite of powdery, overcooked pumpkin was followed by a mouthful of tasteless sweet potato and finally utterly flavourless eggplant. I seriously had to suppress a slight gag reflex at the last one as the starchiness of the eggplant coupled with the total lack of flavour whatsoever is nothing short of shudder-inducing.
I moved on to the Stewed Pork Belly with much trepidation and was rewarded somewhat. The asparagus was tender and perhaps the coldness worked in its favour here? The pork had a generous layer of fat but was somewhat on the tough side though perhaps I am used to such cuts being braised to melt-in-your-mouth softness?
All that remained was the Grilled Horse Mackerel which I left to last for this fish is not the easiest to handle as its often overpowering fishiness often renders it inedible to a person with a nose as sensitive as my own. Ambivalence would be the operative word for while it had a good balance of crisp skin and meaty flesh going, it was pretty far on the oily side with the extremely sour pickle garnish serving to keep me from feeling sick.
The meal was brought to a quiet close with Matcha Ice Cream topped with Azuki. I could not help but chuckle at the fact that a meal of unpleasantly cold food was being topped off with ice cream. The ice cream itself was pleasant if nothing to shout about and the orthodox Azuki complement was a cliché that I grew tired of a long time ago. I mean I’m here for Japanese fine dining, show me what you’ve got! If you’re not going to be creative at least throw some Yuzu or Nama chocolate at me?
Il Lido – 27 Bukit Manis Road, #02-00 Sentosa Golf Club, Singapore
Fine Italian dining, a panoramic view of the beautiful Sentosa Golf Course and a cool evening breeze blowing in from the ocean; now that’s a setting for a dinner! Diffused light made for a most romantic atmosphere though it made taking photographs a real challenge. The $55 per-head restaurant week price was exceeded as we just had to sample some wine from the list that earned Wine Spectator magazine’s Best of Award of Excellence. The final bill came up to $280 for a 4-course dinner for 3.
(I must note the striking similarity between Forlino and Il Lido’s menus, I mean the choice between Cod and Wagyu Beef Cheek as a main and Lava Cake for dessert is just uncanny.)
The Porcini Mushroom and Truffle Cream Soup was smooth and creamy with a viscosity that was just right. However the flavours were somewhat subtle and it was found to be under-seasoned, a lament that would be echoed throughout the meal. I had the Scallops with Chanterelle Mushrooms, Sweet Garlic Cream and Crispy Prosciutto on the other hand were a delight with fresh, pillowy, sweet shellfish bathed in a rich, flavourful sauce. The chanterelles seemed a little soggy though.
The Angel Hair with Spicy Baby Prawns was pleasant but overcooked and soggy if unfairly compared with the flawless al-dente experience I had just hours before. The sauce was spectacular though, with a rich sweetness that only the painstaking reduction of a masterfully prepared stock could achieve.
The slow cooked Wagyu Beef Cheek with Celeriac and Crunchy Vegetables had a lovely, soft texture though not quite achieving the melt-in-your-mouthness symbolic of the prized, marbled meat. Flavours were balanced but once again under-seasoned; we could not help but request for salt and pepper, a decision not regretted for the nuances were truly brought out thereafter.
I felt like seafood again and chose the Atlantic Cod with Chanterelle Mushroom, Baby Leeks and Prosecco Wine Sauce. From the get-go, the presentation and taste profile were a little too similar to my scallop appetiser for comfort. The leeks were delightfully sweet and tender but alas, the fish was overcooked to the point of toughness, a true tragedy for such a fine and fresh cut that was so deliciously buttery that the dish might have been too rich if not for the fabulous pinot grigio I had with it. The chanterelles had a more pronounced flavour this time around which might indicate a slight lack of consistency on the kitchen’s part.
The Molten Lava Chocolate Cake in Hazelnut Crust with Vanilla Ice Cream arrived sans-hazelnut crust as the waiter belatedly explained they ran out of hazelnuts; replacing the vanilla ice cream with hazelnut ice cream instead. The cake itself was pleasantly rich though the chocolate used was not dark enough for my liking. The hazelnut ice cream struck the right balance of richness and nuttiness but the strawberry coulis threw an unpleasant spanner into an otherwise harmonious taste profile reminiscent of a milk chocolate praline.
The meal was closed with two sweet wines that continued the theme of mixed-feelings that was characteristic of the dinner. The first was a Frangolino Rosso Non-vintage that had the most magical nose so full of blackcurrant and berry notes that I would liken this elixir to Ribena’s sexy, seductive older sister. It is a most accessible wine with an almost alcopop taste profile. In short, I loved it.
The Moscato D Asti 2007 intrigued me initially as I have never encountered a sparkling Moscato before. It had a champagne-like appearance in the glass but any impressiveness stopped there as it had no nose to speak of and was frankly quite bland.
There could be no better way to start this (blog) ball rolling than with two double bills back-to-back. This weekend, I savour the offerings of four of Singapore’s definitive fine dining establishments as part of the inaugural restaurant week during which participating eateries slash prices on a handful of hotly-contested tables. Today’s two stops: Forlino and Il Lido!
Forlino - 1 Fullerton Road, #02-06 One Fullerton, Singapore
One of Singapore’s most famed Italian eateries; it has garnered accolades from Wine and Dine, Elle and IS magazines. The $25 per-pax 4-course meal was a steal at a place that would usually set one back about $100 per person.
The amuse bouche of cured salmon was an indication of the delectable things to come with the rich fish counterbalanced by the tangy salad dressing. A safe bet and crowd-pleaser by any account, my friend’s only grouse with it was that her portion of fish seemed smaller than mine.
The foccacia that came with it was warm and pillowy with just the right balance of crisp and chew in the crust!
The Crab Salad with Sweetpea Sprouts and Cantaloupe sounded a little edgy at first but delivered magnificently. The cantaloupe chunks and puree brought out the natural sweetness in the generous cake of crustacean in a fashion that both intrigued and delighted the taste buds.
Now on to the mains; I opted for the Homemade Spaghetti with Black Cod, Baby Artichokes and Mint. I’m somewhat of a pasta nut so a forkful of the perfectly al-dente pasta made my eyes close and lips curl in inexpressible bliss; such divine silkiness and chew is a rare find despite the ubiquity of pasta these days. However, they were rather stingy with the stray flakes of fish and the crispy toasted vegetables were incongruous with the lovely texture of the pasta. That said; the sauce was brimming with flavour that soaked right into the glorious noodles and more than redeemed the dish to me.
One friend went for the Wagyu Beef Cheek Braised with Marsala Wine and Herbed Mashed Potatoes and was in raptures about it for the rest of the meal. Melt-in-your mouth tender, the meat was braised to the point of one not having to chew. Furthermore, the sauce was a beautiful love-child of the rich beef and sweet Marsala whose flavour was surprisingly discernible; something that no doubt took hours of tender loving care to achieve.
The other friend had the Halibut Fillet with Orange. Green Asparagus and Martini Vermouth Sauce which was very fresh, though the lovely fish was paired with a too-buttery sauce that made the dish rather rich. The asparagus spears were tender and sweet but this dish underperformed next to the other two mains which were nothing short of spectacular. To quote said friend, “I’ve had better.”
We awaited Molten Lava Chocolate Cake with Banana Gelato and Rum Sauce with eager anticipation, and it was arguably the piece-de-resistance. The warm, rich, chocolaty ooze was a paradox of sin and divinity which the delightfully unusual banana gelato accentuated beautifully. Finally, the tart, sweet raspberry cut through the richness for a perfect finish.
Petit fours and freshly-brewed Italian coffee seemed a muted afterthought for while good, they merely echoed the splendour of the preceding two courses. I took a moment to appreciate the gorgeously minimalistic presentation though.
