Salt

Salt – 2/5 Nash Street, Rosalie Village, Paddington, Brisbane

Whenever my sister comes home from the holidays, she never fails to wax lyrical about this place. Since my parents went down to visit her, they’ve been raving about it too. Now that I’m finally in Brisbane, I had to make a point to pay Salt a visit. Breakfast is apparently the best meal to sign yourself up for – I certainly have no complaints – so rouse yourself and make your way down before noon. My table of 4 racked up a bill of $92.10.

I started off with a Skinny Hot Chocolate ($4.50) which left me wide-eyed when it arrived as a three-piece set; a shot of thick molten chocolate, creamy white chocolate buttons and a massive bowl of steamed milk that required two hands to wrap around as it had no handle. As you might guess, one mixes it according to one’s preference so I went for just a neat shot of dark chocolate in the milk, choosing to nibble on the buttons. While it might have been empirically good, the involvement it called for elevated my bowl of chocolate to a near-magical experience.

Continuing the theme of playing with preconceptions, the unassuming-sounding Iced Coffee ($4) turned out to be an affogato with generous blobs of creamy vanilla ice cream giving the rich, smooth coffee a flavourful kick.

Truffled Mushrooms with Scrambled Eggs ($17.90) were the perfect morning indulgence. Meaty sautéed shitake mushrooms crowned a crusty slice of fluffy white bread impregnated with the earthy perfume of truffle paste and rich, fruity note of olive oil. Instead of simply using their namesake, Salt craftily relied on the brininess from several rashers of beautiful bacon to make up the saline quotient. Very effective and very flavourful.

The Duo of Sausage ($21.90) comprised a pork & fennel banger paired with a spicier Moroccan lamb sausage and a side of white bean mash. The sausages were both wonderful with a delicate spice accentuating the respective porcine and ovine traits of the meat. I found the lamb sausage particularly commendable in that respect for the spices did not overpower the meat as in the case of most lamb forcemeats. The white bean mash was hearty and rustic, a wonderfully comforting foil to the rich sausages.

If I had one last visit, the Potato Galette ($16.90) would be my most likely order. The wonderful herbed galette was fluffy and light with a delicate crisp and soft mealiness reminiscent of a hash brown. Hand-made, it was smooth, creamy and sweet. If that were not enticing enough, the side of honeyed bacon is to die for with its crispy caramelized crust, the mere thought of it leaves me salivating. To finish, one mops up the yolk of poached eggs and sweet red onion jam with fingers of toasted Turkish pide that were gorgeously griddle-crisped on two sides and chewily absorbent on the inside.

My Roast Beef Omelette ($16.90) was good if a tad less sensational than the other offerings. I was told cream cheese added richness and creaminess to the extremely fluffy egg mixture and slicing through it was like opening a treasure chest. The interior was overflowing with huge thin slices of roast beef, tangy mustard, scallions and sprigs of rocket all glued together with creamy hunks of molten brie. Be sure to soak up the thick, slightly tart and richly beefy jus with more fingers of pide and finally cleanse your palette with the mound of sweet tomato chutney sitting atop it all.

A side order that I highly recommend is the Caramelised Balsamic Vinegar with Garlic ($4.50). Thick, syrupy and glossy, the balsamico was generously sweet and possessed immense depth when reduced and caramelized in this manner. It went deliciously with pretty much everything we ordered and be sure to fish out a clove of creamy roasted garlic before they’re all gone.

Regatta Boatshed

Regatta Boatshed – 543 Coronation Drive, Regatta Hotel, Toowong, Queensland

My favourite SAT question: Worshippers are to temple as carnivores are to… STEAKHOUSE! There is something about a gorgeously browned-on-the-outside, rosy-on-the-inside hunk of cow, positively oozing with juice and flavour that pleases on such a fundamental level.

In the suburb where I currently am, the Boatshed Restaurant at the Regatta Hotel is the place to beat when it comes to steak. Dinner for 7 with dessert and a good bottle of wine amounted to just $363.70.

You know you’re in for a good steak when the cuts of meat are on display for all to see. I contemplated skipping the menu and picking my cut right from the display.

We started off with a Corn and Seomlina Cob Loaf ($8) with three dips. The chewy, sweet bread was wonderfully neutral and absorbent, a great vector for the three tantalizing accompaniments. I enjoyed the subtle Indian influences on the tomato dip flavoured with coriander while the smooth, vividly-hued beetroot puree was punchy, sweet and tangy. I didn’t get to try much of the olive oil and dukkah for the mixture of crushed nuts and seeds including cumin, bay and crushed garlic vanished almost immediately, it was that good.

The gorgeous Balsamic Glaze Brochette Bread ($9) did not last long either. Soft and pillowy, it was a veritable sponge for the olive oil and balsamico it was drizzled with. The juicy tomatoes were wonderful though more basil would’ve made them pop.

There were steaks all round and I only resisted the urge to shed all social decorum and run around snapping pictures of everybody else’s because the aroma wafting from my 300g Eye Fillet Steak – Medium Rare ($30.90) had me in its seductive embrace. The first thing that struck me as I sliced through my gorgeously tender steak was how thick it was – about 2 full inches – and how it managed to be cooked just right despite that. A beautiful sear left it with just the right amount of sharp smokiness while the rosy hue within meant a bite that resisted just a little before parting to your teeth, absolute perfection.

The sides I chose were not to be trifled with either, commanding attention all by themselves. My Double Cream Truffle Mash was every bit as decadent as it sounds. Luxuriously smooth without being gummy, generously laced with truffle flavour, rich and creamy, it did not even need the fantastic Veal Jus perfumed with bay, rosemary and thyme that I compulsively tipped over it. I went so far as to separate it into two mounds, with and without the jus, to be savoured independently. To ensure there was some green to my meal, I chose Poached Pear and Parmesan Snow Pea Tendrils as my second side; I never expected it to prove so crisp, so sweet and such an exquisite pleasure to eat.

The Lemon Curd Pie with Blood Orange Sorbet ($9.50) was the most popular dessert at our table, and for good reason. The sweet, crumbly, buttery shortcrust was the perfect foil to the lemon curd which was tart, thick and not too sweet. The only thing one could possibly split hairs about was the sorbet which was so delicately acidic that I initially mistook it for strawberry.

White Chocolate Crème Brûlée with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream ($9.50) came in a close second with its extremely thick, almost fully solid custard and thick burnt sugar crust. With a generous speckling of vanilla bean, this usually fussy and over-refined dessert actually managed to be rustic and satisfying.

Grill'd

Grill’d – 19/21 Nash Street, Rosalie Village Food Hub, Brisbane, Queensland

I’m in Australia for the next two weeks partly preparing for college that begins in approximately 7 weeks, partly playing my new role as brother-in-law for Christmas and partly getting a head start on the wonderful food culture here. It’s amazing how much a country’s role as a food-producer shows through in its cuisine; from the quality of ingredients to the value you get for every dollar spent, no importer can hope to match that. So – while I’m here – I intend to get all the gorgeous Aussie beef and lamb I can!

Now, there is no better way to get an idea of how access to good meat impacts daily life than by having a good burger. Plain and simple, a burger is a no-fuss daily staple that fuels everyone from a college student lunching between lectures to a go-getting executive in need of a quick bite. Grill’d is a great place to experience this and brunch for 4 amounted to a mere $51.50. Their take-away menus proudly proclaim “SAY NO TO BAD STUFF” and there are no heated shelves of pre-assembled burgers oozing grease through their wax-paper wrappers to be seen; each sandwich is made to order. I think someone ought to be sainted for that alone.

While eating bizarre creations may be fun and exciting, sometimes complete focus on a single core element is required to give it the respect it deserves. So, to give the juicy hunk of cow its due, I had a Simply Grill’d with Cheese ($9.90): a 100% lean beef patty accompanied in the most basic and classic fashion with salad greens, relish, herbed mayonnaise and cheese. It was a decision I will never regret for that first bite left me dizzy from the purest, clearest sensation of – quite possibly - the perfect grilled patty. Parallel grill marks of char explode with sharp smoky flavour while the lean chuck defies logic to yield an astonishing amount of beefy juice; there is neither greasy aftertaste nor gummy chew of fillers. The garnish is barely discernible except for the crunch it provides; all is right in the world.

Another beast to keep one’s eyes peeled for this time of year (out of spring and into summer) is lamb. Well aware of that, the other carnivore of my party zeroed in on The Full Minty ($11.90), a summer special. A grilled lamb patty crowns a carefully crafted mélange of sweet beetroot, astringent rocket, juicy tomato slices, crisp Spanish onions, creamy herbed mayonnaise and the characteristic neutralizing perfume of mint jelly. Just like the beef apparently, this excellent lamb pattie was the main focus and dwarfed everything else in presence on the palate. The potentially off-putting ovine character of lamb was very mild but it still retained meaty flavour. That unusual and complex combination of vegetables provided the right combination of flavours and textures to form a throne for the princely lamb.

The only legal companion of a burger would be Regular Chips ($4.30), the immense portion was thick cut and dusted with a mild spice mix. With the barest touch of salt, the natural sweetness and creaminess of the spuds shone. The slight dryness was easily remedied with either the creamy and aromatic Herbed Mayonnaise ($0.70) or the mild heat and sweetness of Sweet Chili Mayonnaise ($0.70). It was a pity that no vinegar was on hand though…

For those weight-watchers amongst us, the menu also included a substantial array of alternatives like salads. The Grill’d Chicken Salad ($12.50) was a tad dry as the chicken was lean and naturally not very rich in flavour or juice, more sauce was needed.

A far better choice was the Mushroom Feta Salad ($11.50) as it was graced with the earthy juice of sliced Portobello. This mushroom is often used as a meat substitute because of its character and capacity to satisfy in a manner typically limited to roast or grilled beast. Crumbled feta added a burst of sharp flavour and salinity while the bed of rocket was wonderfully generous and outclassed typical lettuce with its astringency and herbaceous character.

Imperial Treasure Teochew Cuisine

Imperial Treasure Teochew Cuisine – 391 Orchard Road, Ngee Ann City, #04-20A

The more I visit Chinese restaurants, the more I begin to think that service is a Western ideal. Forget about them noticing that one of my party was clearly very Indian and spoke not a word of Chinese, every member of the wait staff simply rattled away in mandarin. Do not even expect thought to be put into your pace of eating when dishes are served for everything is dumped on your table at once; too bad if much of it grows cold before you manage to get round to it or if you lack room to move. Yet, these places manage to draw snaking queues because the food miraculously redeems all that with its variety and scrumptiousness. My party of three racked up a massive $115.93 bill and polished off every last morsel.

Our order of Marinated Duck's Tongue ($8) had a most curious texture midway between crunch and gelatinousness. While rather fussy going with a central shard of bone, it was excellent with a sharp white vinegar dip.

Vermicelli Soup with Roast Goose ($8) had a mixed reception for the jury's still out on whether the roast goose was pleasantly moist or soggy.

However, the thick, milky vermicelli soup with wonderful springy noodles found a fan in me for it seemed to have drawn inspiration from sliced fish noodles, one of my favourite comfort foods.

The Deep Fried Pig's Intestines ($8.40) were absolutely sensational. Extremely crisp on the outside, luxuriously soft and creamy on the inside while managing to remain not the least bit oily; it bordered on perfection.

Alas, the Pig's Trotters with Egg and Black Vinegar ($5.50) was proof that some things are best left to home cooks. The ginger sections were unpeeled, leaving a chewy, unappetizing layer of skin to ruin the mouthfeel of the tender young roots. Furthermore, the meat was not braised nearly long enough for the fat to be emulsified by the vinegar so the trotters were still tough and fatty rather than melt-in-your-mouth with little visible marbling. By cutting corners and saving time, all that remained noteworthy in this simple dish was a pleasantly syrupy sauce.

The Stewed Pig's Shank with Peanuts ($5) fared much better with its thick, rich gravy, generous chunks of gelatinous tendon and soft, delicate layer of skin.

The Steamed Teochew Dumplings ($3.30) were one of the more unusual dim sum offerings. Stuffed with turnip slices, black fungus and peanuts, they had a wonderful combination of textures.

I had to try a steamer of Har Kau ($4.40) which had delightfully soft skins stuffed till the verge of bursting with deliciously crunchy shrimp.

The Siew Mai ($4) were a touch too salty though but otherwise aced the combination of tender, juicy chicken stuffing and still more springy shrimp.

I loved the strong, grassy pungency of chives in the Pan Fried Chive Dumplings ($3.50) but they could have been far less greasy.

The Steamed Chicken with Fish Maw ($4.80) presented a gorgeous amalgam of flavours and textures with spongy fish maw, chewy shiitake, meaty ham chunks and juicy chicken pieces.

Shanghai Steamed Pork Dumplings ($3.60) are my perennial favourite but - as always - featured skins that were way too fragile. Nevertheless, I enjoyed whatever dribble of thickened meat broth and marinated mince that reached my mouth.

The Fish Maw Soup with Pearl Leaves ($9) was decidedly average though I always marvel at how a swim bladder can even be rendered edible. The crunchy fungus and small bits of mince provided the bulk of the texture and flavour though.

I much preferred the Minced Beef with Vegetables in Thickened Soup ($8) as the beef was not overcooked to toughness and flavoured the eggdrop-thickened soup generously.

A Chinese restaurant meal is never complete without a Mango Pudding ($4) and this one was a princely specimen with actual mango chunks embedded in the gelatinized mango purée, no chemical aftertaste detected.

The Walnut Cream ($4) was another winner with a pleasant viscosity and that bittersweetness I adore.

Less remarkable were the Egg Tarts ($3) which were a little too flaky but the custard struck a good balance of firmness and moistness.

Privé Bakery Café

Privé Bakery Café - Marina at Keppel Bay, 2 Keppel Bay Vista

Privé has been on my list of places to visit for the longest time for a number of reasons. I heard they do a mean brunch, they are situated in a gorgeous location and they have Eggs Benedict/Royale on their menu. Alas, my long wait was for a $52.90 meal for two that ultimately proved disappointingly average.

My dining partner started off with a TWG French Earl Grey ($4.80) which was wonderfully refined and delicate, filling your nose with the rich perfume of bergamot and your tongue with clean, clear astringency; credit here rightfully goes to TWG whose outlet at ION I adore. Next to that, the crunchy oatmeal-raisin cookie seemed out of place as it was a flavour of comfort rather than of sophistication. A Sable Breton nibble would have been a better fit IMHO.

This was followed with the decadent-sounding Prawn Bisque with Cognac and Prawn Ravioli ($12) which was far from what it promised. Flat-tasting and underseasoned, it lacked even moderate crustacean sweetness; a dribble of sherry would have also given it much-needed depth. The ravioli offered an equal dearth of flavour with a slight doughiness to them too.

The extensive selection of pastries would have been excellent IF they had not been stone cold. Ignoring that, the Lemon Twist ($2) was delightfully flaky and light. Sweet but not cloying, its lemony character lay purely in an intensely citrusy aroma as it was not tart at all.

Even better was the Blueberry Muffin ($2.80) which was so rich, dense and moist that it almost resembled a pudding at points. Generously studded with sugary and richly hued blueberries, it was quite gorgeous. If only warmed slightly and served with butter...

The Croissant ($2) was another let-down though, too buttery to the point of being oily and lacking that characteristic flaky airiness.

Things did improve somewhat after that though. The Eggs Royale ($14.50) was sensational despite initial appearances. I was taken aback at the sight of fully-cooked smoked salmon but ventured a taste and was rewarded. Beneath a layer of molten cheese, the bernaise was luxuriously thick and creamy, clinging to the delicately poached eggs and oozing over the firm, flaky grilled smoked salmon.

Finishing things off was the Hazelnut Praline Royale ($6.80), highly recommended by our waiter and helping tip the scales just slightly further away from an unsatisfactory brunch. Rich, smooth and creamy; the mousse had a generous dose of lovely hazelnut flavour while the crisp base added that contrasting crunch for a balanced mouthfeel.

Lavender Corner

Lavender Corner - 195 Lavender Street

This food centre was my family's go-to place for a good Chinese fix in my picky-eating childhood days. While they would enjoy the typical bak chor or wanton noodles, I'd only sample the more unusual items; and that's the stuff that has brought me back all these years later instead of to any run-of-the mill neighbourhood joint. You simply can't find this stuff in other hawker centres, let alone literally next to each other under one roof.

Ju Hao La Mian Xiao Long Bao (#01-29)

I've always had a soft spot for Xiao Long Bao ($5.50 for a steamer of 8). This is a cousin of the fiddly sort almost exclusively found in mid-range Chinese restaurants, I'll explain how shortly. Each of these little soup-filled parcels delivers an unfailingly surprising gush of flavour when its chewy outer layer yields under your teeth, sending steaming, rich thickened pork stock spurting in all directions (hopefully within your mouth). That's my private Asian version of present-opening Christmas joy; and I can have it all year round with a lovely astringent ginger-black vinegar dip.

This perhaps plebeian sort differs from the over-refined restaurant XLBs in the way their thicker skins allow my chopsticks to find purchase and lift them to my lips without the constant threat of a premature explosion. The deft, limp chopstick grip mastered by my Chinese ancestors wasn't something I inherited, as any casualty of a dim sum lunch with me will attest to.

Bugis Street Ngak Seah Beef Kuay Teow (#01-28)

I will never understand why Beef Kuay Teow ($5) is so elusive in Singaporean hawker centres. Do people fail to appreciate the allure of springy, chewy tripe; that unparalleled mouthfeel of gorgeously gelatinous tendon chunks or even the magic of beef strips morphing from blood-red to rosy pink as they are flash-cooked for mere seconds in boiling broth? I can't even begin to describe that mysterious thick, black, umami-vinegary-peppery sauce napping the chewy noodles that I've tried for years - in futility - to deconstruct. I'm delightfully resigned to a pilgrimage here whenever a craving takes me.

As a sidekick to all that richness is a meatball soup that is as simple as it is exquisite. Two dense, springy meatballs float in clear beefy stock. Do dip generously in tangy, fiery chili.

Kin Turtle Soup Geylang Lorong 35 (#01-27)

Before you go all PETA on me with the whole save-the-cutesy-turtles spiel; imagine with me the meaty bite of mutton meeting the leanness of chicken and the lovely jelly glory of sea cucumber, all available in one package. I trust you've exchanged your arms for cutlery?

The $15 bowl I ordered differs from the $10 option in that it contains wonderful sea-cucumber-esque turtle blubber and only the tenderest, choicest cuts of the reptile. The latter goes best with a simple garnish of cilantro and ginger or - for the bold - fiery vinegar-based chili sauce. The mildly herbal broth gets its characteristic bittersweet flavour from wolfberries and a dozen mysterious herbs; don't ask what, just eat.