Khmer Delight

Khmer Delight – 922 Upper East Coast Road

While Thai and Vietnamese food has hogged the limelight over the past few years, Cambodian food has yet to establish as strong a following; which is surprising as it is amazing! Khmer Delight is – to date – the only authentic Cambodian restaurant in Singapore, tantalizing taste buds with the cuisine’s refreshing lightness, refined delicacy and milder spice as compared to her more mainstream cousins. Prices are comfortable with a full dinner setting me back $45.75.

Service here is a fine specimen with my cheerful and dynamic waitress brimming with suggestions and recommendations. A distinct personal touch is evident from how a rapport is established with each and every person entering the restaurant, be it by humoring an excited infant or attempting to guess my ethnicity.

I whet my appetite with the Chicken and Banana Blossom Salad ($7.90). The sweet and tangy dressing was exceptional with a delicate spiciness blooming on your tongue for a millisecond at first crunch before dimming to gentle warmth, much like a firework display. I loved the fact that the chicken was not dry or tough but soft and rather moist. Together with banana blossoms, crunchy cabbage, a scattering of refreshing mint leaves and pickled ginger, it made for a delightfully light start to the meal.

Off to a strong beginning, I attacked the Beef Lok Lak ($14.90) with gusto. This signature Cambodian dish is almost indistinguishable from a really, REALLY good stir-fried black pepper beef. The generous portion of thickly sliced lean beef had good bite while remaining tender and was tossed with sugary-sweet, delightfully crisp chunks of bell pepper and onions. However, the knockout punch would have to be the smoky, warm and syrupy pepper sauce lying in a gorgeous, glossy sheen over everything.

The Fish Amok ($11.90) came next in quick succession. Despite what its intriguing moniker might suggest, there was nothing chaotic about this utterly beautiful dish. Unlike the typical homogenous fish-paste otah most are used to; the Cambodians opt for meaty chunks of firm fish buried like nuggets of treasure in a rich, chili-and-spice infused coconut cream custard. While a little overwhelming on its own, the wobbly custard is nothing short of divine when messily scooped up with crunchy prawn crackers.

I brought my meal to a close with Banana and Sesame Fritters with Ice Cream ($6.90). Apparently, bananas grow abundantly in Cambodia and no part of the plant goes to waste. Banana blossoms went into the salad; banana leaves were used to wrap the fish amok, imparting a delightful flavor; now the fruits take centre-stage in my dessert. Black sesame seeds added a wealth of dimension to the crispy coating of the fritter which was thick, serving a dual purpose of not turning soggy too quickly and providing a layer of thermal insulation between the piping hot banana and cold ice cream. I have no idea how they managed to get a hot banana robed in warm pastry but it worked out beautifully. The banana itself was more sour than sweet, relying on the ice cream for sugar quotient, resulting in a symbiosis between fruit and frozen confection of not only temperature but taste as well. In short, it was absolutely delish!

Spruce (Second Visit)

Spruce (Second Visit) – 320 Tanglin Road

As I mentioned in my first post about Spruce, the lovely food and gorgeous setting just makes one ache to spend a lazy day there. As such, I returned with company to while away a sunny Saturday afternoon and try some of the things which beckoned to me last time around but I tragically had no space for. An afternoon’s eating for 3 amounted to $64.74.

I simply could not get the Ahi Tuna Tartare ($21) out of my head since I first saw it on the menu. True to my daydreams, the fish bordered on the indescribably divine; sweet, rich, velvety-smooth and melt-in your mouth. Accented with a marinade of shallots, garlic and spring onions, paired with a creamy chunk of fresh avocado and piled – as generously as you see fit - on a hunk of soft, olive-oil-drizzled foccacia… I found gastronomic Nirvana, that rare instance when your mind goes blank when registering an utterly overwhelming pleasure.

The Spruce Big Brekkie ($18) lived up to its claim with a plate piled high with hearty breakfast classics. The thick, crusty slices of toast were crisp with a soft, yielding interior; prefect to soak up the yolk of double sunny-side-up eggs. The massive sausage had a thick casing that was bursting with generously spiced meat. Chewy, lean rashers of back bacon and a sweet, almost syrupy roast tomato completed the massive portion.

The Yoghurt and Buttermilk Panna Cotta with Seasonal Fruit ($12) is a must-have for any sweet tooth watching their waistline. It is essentially a breathtakingly-layered parfait of rich, unsweetened yogurt which takes on the sugary sweetness of sultanas, cherries, craisins and a generous layer of apricot preserve. This is weight-watchers with pizzazz for a complex harmony is found between the aforementioned sweetness and richness along with the warm tones of rolled oats and a dusting of spicy cinnamon.

We finally decided on the Purple Velvet ($9) out of their massive array of baked items. The deep purple-black of this chocolate cake is accorded by beetroot which also contributes a hint of added flavour and sugariness. While the cake itself was moist, rich and dense, the cream cheese frosting was surprisingly light and almonds added a variation of flavour to this rarely-found classic. It was pleasantly if immensely filling for one but I advise sharing it if you want space for anything else.

Tarts

Tarts – 2 Recipes by Jamie Oliver

There’s something wonderful about a delectable filling in an edible cup that I just cannot get enough of. From savoury quiches and chicken pot pies to the classic apple pie a-la-mode, everyone can find a tart or pie they love as any conceivable ingredient can be turned into one. Included below are two of Jamie Oliver’s short-crust tart recipes which I tried recently that are characteristically idiot-proof (endorsed by an idiot right here) and fuss-free for simple, unpretentious deliciousness.

Lemon Lime Tart

(The basic short-crust pastry is a great for other things too!)

For Pastry

125g butter

100g icing sugar

Pinch of salt

250g flour

2 egg yolks

2 tbsp cold milk

For Filling

340g caster sugar

8 eggs

350ml double cream

200ml lime juice

100 ml lemon juice

1. Cream butter, sugar and salt then pulse in flour and egg yolks.

2. Add milk when mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs.

3. Lightly work and shape into a ball of dough with minimal kneading.

4. Roll into a log and refrigerate for an hour.

5. Slice 0.5cm discs and line tart tins.

6. Freeze for an hour.

7. Egg-wash and blind bake at 180 degrees Celsius for 12 min.

8. Whisk sugar and egg followed by cream then juices.

9. Pour filling into shells and bake for 40min at 180 degrees till slightly wobbly.

Chocolate Tart

For Pastry

170g unsalted butter

115g caster sugar

A pinch of salt

280g plain flour

Zest of 1 orange

1.5 eggs

35g cocoa powder

For Filling

100 ml whole milk

290 ml double cream

30g caster cugar

175g dark chocolate

1 egg

1. Cream butter, sugar and salt together.

2. Fold in flour, orange zest, eggs and cocoa powder.

3. Work coarse-breadcrumb texture into a ball of dough but do not work dough too much or it’ll be chewy.

4. Wrap in cling film and refrigerate for an hour.

5. Roll out, line tart tins and freeze for half an hour.

6. Blind bake for 15 minutes at 180 degrees till almost biscuit like.

7. Heat milk, cream and sugar in a saucepan till at a gentle boil.

8. Take off heat and whisk in broken chocolate followed by eggs.

9. Fill pie shells and bake for 15 min at 170 degrees till a slightly wobbly.

Wild Rocket

Wild Rocket – 10A Upper Wilkie Road, Hangout @ Mt Emily

Fusion food has always held a special significance to me because of my mixed heritage. As such, it was with much excitement that I headed to the famed Wild Rocket last Sunday. The adventure to get there (refer to footnote) was well worth it for Chef Willin Low amazed me with a trifecta of service, ambience and food that made for an exceptional experience I won’t soon forget. Brunch for 2 set me back $65.90, tip not included.

That’s right, I had to tip my amazing waiter Ravin as the service I received is a rare thing to find in Singapore and I’m loath for it to vanish due to lack of support. First, they called me to confirm my reservation; an elegant touch. Next, they provided me with precise directions when I called back 20 minutes later, utterly lost on foot and melting in noonday sun; they know their stuff. When I finally arrived, Ravin greeted me by name and wittily asked me how my “swim” was before seating me and slipping me a thick stack of napkins; now that’s initiative! When he noticed my friend was running late, I was given a stack of magazines to bide my time; I’m rendered speechless by this point. That was on top of basics like Ravin effortlessly fielding my request for recommendations with suggestions from every section of the menu, refreshing our bread without request and accommodating my need to pop out when my parking coupon expired. That’s the kind of service that will guarantee a customer’s return.

With a third of the restaurant-perfection trinity secured, I move on to ambience. While finding Hangout @ Mount Emily is like searching for Shangri-La, this ensures it is a sanctuary well away from the hustle and bustle. The clean lines, comfortingly muted colours and wood panelled floors are chic and classy. My request for a table with good light was accommodated with a lovely, quiet seat next to the window perfect for pictures and the catch-up session I had planned with an old friend.

Now on to the food, the Foccacia and Olive Oil-Balsamico Dip amuse-bouche was a rather tame offering albeit a good one. The bread was feather light and pillow soft with a moist yet crumbly composition.

We availed of the brunch menu which was a very affordable $28 per pax for 3 courses. I started off with the Grilled Tofu Baby Spinach Salad with Yasai Dressing which was delightfully light, simple and beautifully presented. The baby spinach leaves were crisp and tender while the cherry tomatoes were plump and sweet. The grilled tofu was firm and meaty, surprisingly satisfying for what I expected to be a light starter. All this was lightly drizzled with a dressing possessing more depth than I anticipated; its subtle sweetness with hints of ginger beneath quality soy sauce accentuated the delicately flavoured ingredients with the necessary light touch.

My friend went for the Black Pepper Soft Shell Crab with Granny Smith Apples. The crisp-fried crab had sweet, creamy flesh and was lightly fried to a crisp that was not oily. The small amount of black pepper sauce was more than sufficient for it was a thick, potently flavoured combination of sweet smokiness and warm fire. All that was balanced with matchsticks of tart, sweet green apples; an unusual yet excellent combination that was a herald of the wonders yet to come.

As compliments of the Chef, we got a taste of Rosé with Lychee. I was surprised to find that this rosé had a subtle nose and little inherent flavour, lacking the typical strong berry notes common in my favourite type of wine. This choice was evidently made on purpose for after letting the lychee sit in the sparkling liquid for awhile, and nearing the bottom of my glass, I was greeted by the delicate accents of the fruit for a pleasantly unique result.

I opted for the famed but unadventurous Wild Rocket Burger as my main. This was a princess among burgers; a diminutive size belied a creation right up there with the rest of the greats. The rich, onion-studded patty was done to an incredibly moist medium rare. A thin layer of sundried tomato relish was full of sweet, smoky flavour that took things to the next level. The side was an experience unto itself as well, a piquantly-dressed salad on a papadam for more crunch and flavour than croutons could ever provide.

The Spicy Dried Shrimp and Scallop Spaghetti left my friend in excruciating ecstacy between slurping up the lovely pasta and gulping down copious amounts of water to battle a spice beyond her ken. The hei bi hiam accorded an explosive Asian flavour to the Italian classic, a bold move that gave it new life and verve.

My eyes lit up at the sight of my Pandan Infused Panna Cotta with Gula Melaka dessert. This was a truly beautiful Oriental-Occidental marriage that gives further proof of the compatibility between South East Asian flavours and Italian techniques. The near-perfect custard was creamy and rich with a slight stickiness to its melt-in-your-mouth, halfway-between-solid-and-liquid texture. The pandan flavour was subtle yet discernible and danced beautifully with the traditional dark brown palm sugar sauce that had a touch of salt to bring out its sweetness like any authentic chendol vendor would tell you.

The Kueh Baulu Tiramisu was excellent if less groundbreaking than the panna cotta. Very sweet with velvety-smooth creaminess, the mascarpone was excellently done. Kueh baulu mimics the effect of Savoiardi Ladyfinger biscuits almost to a tee with a slightly airier feel.

Footnote: I would advise against heading to Hangout @ Mount Emily for the first time if you do not have a car and a good sense of direction; taking a taxi there will likely leave you stranded after your meal. Even armed with my month-old license, a prodigious sense of direction left me utterly lost so I wound up parking opposite Selegie Centre and taking a 20-minute walk. My dining partner led me to free parking next to the restaurant when my coupons ran out halfway through the meal.

TWG Tea Salon and Boutique

TWG Tea Salon and Boutique – 2 Orchard Turn #02-21 ION Orchard

The concept of having tea would typically bring to mind the old world charm of nibbling on small pastries and sipping from delicate china cups, enjoying scintillating conversation with good company. I’m glad to say that – as much as society today is in a truly sorry state of degeneration – the long queues outside TWG indicate that all is not lost. Personally, an afternoon amidst the polished silverware and delicate finger food went a long way towards undoing the damage one and a half years of plebeian military barbarism has wrought. If I may quote Mastercard: Parking in Orchard: $5. Tea at TWG: $42.50. Beautiful afternoon with a closest friend: Priceless.

Our choice of tea for the day was T5008 Strawberry Tea ($10.50) which was very floral and fruity. It had a lovely strong berry aroma that I spent my time inhaling luxuriantly. It comforted me on a very primal level for a bizarre reason that only came to light after much pondering – it smelt just like the strawberry animal toothpaste I used as a child.

We started off with the much-touted Green Tea Financier ($4 ea) which I found a little underwhelming. For a place famed for tea, the matcha flavour was surprisingly subdued. That said, it had a lovely dense richness that left me sad when the little cake vanished in just three bites. Alas, the dainty diminutive portions are both the best and worst aspects of tea.

The Red Tea Jelly and Clotted Cream served with the Green Tea financiers was nothing short of amazing. Its heady fruitiness and sour edge left me at a loss to place just what flavour it was.

As a clear indicator of the exceptional service at TWG, the waiter was not only able to field my question about the jelly’s flavour but also offered us an alternative Geisha Blossom Jelly. This was a wholly different creature from its red tea counterpart. The green tea and passionfruit combination was a lot more refined and nuanced in my opinion with a lighter, marmalade-like feel with the bitter tannin edge mimicking the effect of citrus peel beautifully.

So impressed were we with the tea jellies that we just had to order Scones ($4 ea), how can tea be complete without these pastries anyway? The sizable, raisin-studded masterpieces were deliciously buttery and moist with the trademark salty tang; they were delicate without being too crumbly.

Finally, we arrived at the piece de resistance, arguably the main reason for our visit to TWG, the TWG Macarons ($2 ea); we tried all 8 flavours. The consistent theme that won me over was the gradual strengthening of flavours that were not too apparent at first bite but developed on the palate.

Moroccan Mint Tea (white) had an initially subtle mintiness that grows gradually as the delicate construction of icing sugar and almond flour melts in your mouth; at its peak, the mint is delightfully strong without being medicinal.

Bain de Rose (pink) blooms beautifully in the mouth, growing in intoxicating strength from delicate bud to robust blossom that leaves a lingering kiss long after you’ve polished off the confection. It was easily my favourite.

Napoleon Tea and Caramel (black) fell short of the mark as its colour was indicative of a burnt sugar feel, rather than caramel. Too sweet and too bitter, it lacked the subtle nuances and refined feel of the other flavours.

Earl Grey and Chocolate (brown) was most unusual with the bitter accents and strong flavours of dark chocolate appearing first before the bergamot notes rise in an ever-increasing crescendo.

Lemon Bush Tea (yellow) was refreshing, fruity and generously sour. If you were to close your eyes, an image of the citrus fruits ripening gorgeously on the tree in time-lapse photography comes to mind.

Camelot Tea and Praline (dark brown) was quite brittle compared to the softer biscuits in the others. It lacked any strong flavour accents to the point that the almond notes in the almond flour were more apparent than hazelnuts.

1837 Black Tea and Blackcurrant (dark pink) was a little on the sweet side but had a truly lovely berriness.

Grand Wedding Tea, Passionfruit and Coconut (Purple) was quite sweet as well but balanced with a tinge of sourness. The desiccated coconut added an intriguing textural variation and a subtle coconut note which danced surprisingly well with the passionfruit.

Rong Guang BBQ Seafood

Rong Guang BBQ Seafood – 301 Ulu Pandan Road

If one were to ever drive down Ulu Pandan road after dusk, it would be absolutely impossible to miss this casual eatery’s gaily coloured sign and perpetual crowd. Their renditions of the cze char mainstays are solid, and somehow the ambience of formica tables and plastic chairs add so much to the experience. Should I crave a simple, satisfying supper, this place tops my list. A pretty massive late-night munch for two came up to $53.93.

The complimentary Keropok prawn crackers have generous crunch, a unique crisp, airy texture and highlight Rong Guang’s absolutely addictive Cincalok. I have seriously considered the possibility that they’ve snuck opiates into this piquant and sweet-spicy condiment alongside the crunchy shallots, chilli, lime, vinegar, sugar, salt and fermented prawns for one develops a manic craving for it that borders on being a withdrawal symptom.

The Sambal Stingray ($10/12/14) is undoubtedly their signature dish which I’m hard-pressed to find a close second to elsewhere. The firm meaty flesh is cooked to absolute perfection with a thin layer of crisp, slightly bitter char belying flesh that is surprisingly moist and not at all fishy. It might sound blasphemous to purists but I scrape the sambal off – content with the merest lingering hint of belacan flavour – and defer to a generous dose of cincalok.

The Sambal Squid ($10) is a little on the oily side but generously spicy in a way that will make you smack your lips and savour that slightly masochistic burn as it spreads rapidly through your palate.

Always have a glass (or two!) of Lime Juice ($1) on hand for when the spice borders on the overwhelming. The deliciously shudder-inducing nectar might be squeezed on site for its sourness is far punchier than the typical flat-tasting sugary-sweet cordials.

The Mee Goreng ($6) is a solid classic if not as exceptional as the aforementioned items. The generous portion is of the wetter species with the noodles coated in a moist mixture of ketchup jazzed up with chilli powder spice and cooked to firmness. They’re quite generous with sweet prawns, chewy squid, crunchy lettuce and tomato chunks too.

Do not pass on the Shrimp Paste Chicken ($8) which will leave you fighting over the last piece. An industrial-strength fire that you can hear from the eating area facilitates a brutal temperature gradient which allows a loudly crunchy-crisp golden layer to lie just next to the delicate and tender chicken. The batter contains belacan which is what elevates this beyond the realm of normal friend chicken as that pungent stuff accords a veritable wealth of flavour that sets me salivating just thinking about it. It goes without saying that the cincalok (yes, I mention it yet again) is the ideal condiment for this as it cuts through the greasiness and adds a hit of spice necessary to take things from lips-licking-deliciousness to eyes-closed-groan-of-pleasure.

Still unable to get enough, we ordered the You Tiao ($8) which are dough fritters stuffed with minced squid and served with mayonnaise. This was my ultimate treat as a child, the combination of crispness on the outside and springyness on the inside coupled with the sweet creaminess of mayonnaise just speaks to me on a fundamental level. It still gets me all googly-eyed…

Kim Choo’s Kitchen

Kim Choo’s Kitchen – 109/111 East Coast Road

I’ve always had a soft spot for Peranakan food but the home-cooked care, painstaking preparation and meticulous attention to detail that are the essence of this cuisine also renders it difficult to fit into a viable business model. Nevertheless, this eatery tenaciously sticks to its roots and traditional feel by keeping everything relatively small-scale so that every mouthful conjures images of a wizened old grandma keeping vigil over a simmering pot. The establishment also manages a stand with a dazzling array of the famed Peranakan kuehs which I shall not cover in this post so as to give them their due attention. A substantial lunch set my table of 2 back $63.80.

The complimentary Achar was comfortingly familiar and authentic. Sweet, piquant and tangy with a touch of chilli for added zing, this pickle really whets the appetite. Delightfully moreish, the generous portion of lovely crunchy vegetables topped liberally with fragrantly toasted peanuts vanished in a flash.

Bawan Kepiting Soup ($12) is the archetypal pick-me-up when you’re nursing a cold. Don’t let looks fool you for this clear soup is actually a hearty broth of fermented beans teeming with slippery tang hoon as well as meatballs containing a complex list of ingredients including crab, minced pork, bamboo shoots, topshell and mushrooms. The amalgam of flavours was perfectly balanced and soaked into the luxuriously smooth glass noodles. However, it was the meatballs that stole the show with their delicate spice, satisfyingly meaty flavour and amazing pillow-softness with just a hint of chew. If I could have this whenever I’m ill, I’d find every excuse to catch the flu!

The subtly-flavoured gravy of the Babi Pongteh ($8) was a perfect platform for the well-marbled pork to shine in its melt-in-your-mouth glory alongside massive shitake mushroom caps and bamboo shoots. This dish is one of the less spicy offerings but a side of fiery sambal is on hand for chilli-heads like me, the heat really bringing out the richness of the meat.

Itek Siow ($12) had a truly lovely blend of spices including generous amounts of tamarind that opened up the gamey notes of the duck. The green chillies had had their heat braised to a manageable warmth that added further dimension to the already complicated mix of flavours. My only grouse was the rather bony pieces of duck; a great deal of picking yielded the barest scraps of meat which was a shame as it was so good!

Ayam Buah Keluak ($8) is easily and indisputably my favourite Peranakan dish. The thick, enigmatic sauce has the colour and viscosity of crude oil and is at once sweet, sour and bitter with a thick, heady aroma. The juicy, tender chunks of thicken thigh are thoroughly basted in the thick, syrupy blackness; taking on the complex mixture of spices beautifully. The crown jewels amidst all this splendour would have to be the buah keluak themselves, black nuts that I have not seen cooked in any other way. These nuts are actually poisonous if not done right; a hole is cracked in their thick shells, the flesh within chopped up and spooned back through the crevice before cooking. The end result simply cannot be put into words; I’d imagine that it mimics the sweetness of freshly turned loam? I know truffles are described as earthy too but these nuts are earthy in a wholly different way. I could keep waxing lyrical but still not be able to provide someone who hasn’t tried the stuff with the vaguest idea; it is a wholly unique and sublime experience.

Nonya Ngoh Hiong ($8) are excellent finger food and would be peerless bar-bites. Literally named “5 flavours”, the delicious mixture of meaty pork mince, sweet prawn and crunchy water chestnut in a crisp-fried beancurd skin is explosively flavoured with 5-spice powder. When dipped into a caramelly sweet sauce, it is nothing short of divine.

Chinatown Market

Chinatown Market

The exhaustive myriad of authentic, dirt-cheap (my crappy army pay can’t support posh nosh everyday) Chinese food at the Chinatown market warranted yet another pilgrimage to the dingy, crowded sauna. My food-mania triumphs over filth-phobia once again.

Yam Cake and Chee Cheong Fun ($2) are carbohydrate-laden breakfast mainstays that spell doom for any Atkin’s diet. It is an exercise in futility to resist the intoxicating fragrance of sesame oil wafting out of the grease-proof packet. Two unique and distinct pleasures are present between the rich, creamy steamed yam pudding and the silky smooth flat rice noodles; both slathered in a savoury, viscous sauce. The sublime experience is completed by a thick sambal belacan, a potent chilli sauce animated by the pungent magic of fermented shrimp.

Cantonese Mung Bean Rice Dumplings ($3) are proof that a God exists, and that He enjoys His food. These sinful but oh-so-delicious parcels are a simple concoction of mung beans and well marbled pork. Magic happens as the pork fat melts when steamed and – liberated from the delicate folds of meat – are free to ooze and flow, impregnating and saturating the fragrant glutinous rice grains and mealy bean mash with buttery richness and porky flavour.

Economical Bee Hoon ($1) is fuel, plain and simple. The impressionable rice vermicelli soaks up character from quality soy and vegetable stock while a punchy chilli sauce adds depth and pizzazz. This simple dish has given generations of blue-collar workers the raw energy required to eke out a living; many of whom still queue up at the same stalls as white-coiffed retirees by force of habit. Long line of old people = good food.

Fish and Peanut Porridge ($1) is not one of my favourite breakfast staples for the nutty accents from the boiled peanuts combined with the strong scent of salted fish make my eyes water and head spin unpleasantly. That said; the 10 or so people seated around me slurping up the stuff with gusto obviously disagree.

Pork Porridge ($2) is more to my taste with the thick, creamy gruel chock full of various porky treasures. From the coppery tang of perfectly semi-cooked liver to chewy intestine segments and clumps of coarsely minced pork, one develops a deliciously intimate understanding of porcine anatomy.

A porridge breakfast is never complete without a Raw Fish Salad ($3). The meaty, gelatinous and slightly sticky fish is extremely fresh, swimming amidst the vibrant tones of fragrant sesame oil, salty soy, astringent ginger and herby cilantro.