Sunday, January 30, 2011

Les Amis

Les Amis – 1 Scotts Road, #02-14/16, Shaw Centre, Singapore



Les Amis


In the third and final installment of Fatlittleboy’s Singapore grand finale, I visited Les Amis. The Les Amis group is synonymous with fine food in Singapore and the eatery that started it all has garnered a long list of accolades dating as far back as 1995. More recent achievements include The Miele Guide Asia’s 5th (2009) and 11th (2010) Best Restaurant as well as ranking 60th (2009) and 78th (2010) on the Restaurant Magazine UK’s World’s Top 100 Restaurants.



LA Seat


The service was among the best I’ve experienced with a perfect balance of warmth and professionalism. The wait staff really knows its material, volunteering recommendations and painting an almost poetic picture of your order as it arrives. One waiter blew me away by giving me a brief history of the culinary use of the Maitake mushrooms I asked about. Set lunches come in two forms, a 3-course (1 appetizer, 1 main, 1 dessert) for $60++ and a 4 course (2 appetizer, 1 main, 1 dessert) for $80++. My substituting to include two of the chef’s signatures resulted in my lunch for two amounting to $364.87.



LA Menu


The Wholemeal, White and Sourdough Breads with Bavarian Sweet Mustard Butter and Butter were exceptional. I adored the warm, olive-studded sourdough with unsalted butter as the rich flavour and brininess of the olives remained in perfect focus. What stole the show – however – was the lovely mustard butter. The combination of sugar and butter is crucial to baking but I never thought sugary butter could be so good on its own, especially when balanced by the subtle acidity of mustard.



Mustard Butter


Scottish Salmon Tarte Flambé was served compliments of the chef. A play on the traditional Alsatian flatbread, it substituted crème fraîche, onions and bacon with the lighter flavours of raw salmon, a sprinkling of salt and a hint of truffle oil. I clean forgot my camera when these treats arrived so here’s stock picture from the Les Amis site.



Scottish Salmon Tarte Flambe


My starters were both chef signatures and seemed to have a marked Singaporean influence that began with Lightly Smoked Eel Tiede with Crispy Pork Crouton, Horseradish and Dijon Mustard Emulsion. Who knew that the delicate, tender chew of rich smoked eel and a crispy pork-infused wafer could perfectly replicate the mouthfeel and flavour profile of siew yoke, Chinese crisp-roasted fatty pork? Well it does, especially with sinus-clearing horseradish-mustard sauce on the side as I’ve always eaten the stuff with Coleman’s mustard. This dish takes gastronomic deconstruction to a whole new plane, transcending the usual rehashed alternate assembly of the same elements and instead sourcing near-identical flavour from the unlikeliest of sources. Absolute genius.



Eel Tiede


My second starter was not even on the lunch menu but they obliged – at a supplement of course – and I got to experience my second delicious mind-screw of the day. Shocking but true, the Homemade Pasta with Japanese Shrimp and Black Périgord Truffles ($20) perfectly emulated Hokkien Prawn Noodles. The noodles were cooked soft - beyond the al dente of the other pasta we ordered - to become an occidental doppelganger of yellow noodles. The pool of liquid that the mound of pasta rested in was a potent shrimp stock with that trademark combination of crustacean sweetness and umami found in its Hawker Centre muse. Of course there were a few additional bells and whistles thrown in, like the crunchy tiny shrimp usually encountered in Asian shrimp crackers. However, the black truffles were wasted in my opinion as their flavour was completely overpowered; perhaps sambal belacan instead?



Truffled Hae Mee


My dining partner opted for Marinated Winter Vegetable Salad with Melba Toast and Fennel Pollen Vinaigrette which was good though not quite as groundbreaking as the other dishes. The mix of crisp fresh vegetables and soft boiled ones made for an interesting mouthfeel while the melba toast-wafer was a pleasant alternative to typical croutons, albeit a little oily.



Winter Salad


She continued with a second starter of Homemade Smokey Mushroom Pasta with Japanese Snow Crab and Spring Onion that was a mixture of hits and misses. The sweet if chewy crab leg would have been better if it was not nestled in a fishy foam or espuma of some sort. The combination of mushrooms and a sweet seafood stock was a winner though, slurped up with good al dente noodles.



Smokey Mushroom Pasta


We opted for another chef signature for our main, at a sizable supplement. Our Baby Monkfish on the Bone with Maitake Mushrooms, Lettuce and Caper-Lime Jus ($170, serves two) was served with much flourish. Brought to our table whole, it was sliced and served before our eyes.



Monkfish


This was my first taste of famed monkfish and I found that the tail flesh indeed lives up to its reputation of having a texture similar to lobster; though I’d say with a suggestion of firm fish like snapper. It had little inherent character though, relying on the caper sauce for oomph.



I was a little underwhelmed until I had my first taste of the toasted Maitake mushroom. The tender folds of flesh had a subtle earthy perfume with near-floral notes, infinitely more refined and delicate than the heady aroma of truffles. The waiter obliged with a little history lesson about its roots as a medicinal agent in ancient china.



Monkfish Served


Also dissected for us were monkfish cheeks, the choicest portion of the undeniably ugly fish with a texture firmer than the tail flesh. With a leaf of crisp baby romaine, a clove of bittersweet, wonderfully aromatic roast garlic, a chunk of meaty Maitake and caper sauce, it was phenomenal.



Monkfish Cheek


Our desserts promised another display of creativity, as evinced in my Pickled Hawaiian Papaya with Frozen Curry, Yogurt, Ginger and Lime; breathtakingly presented and in a manner that made it hard to tell what was what. I deliberated a fair while before nibbling a little white stuff that turned out to be a sugar confection similar to honey comb, tangy with the citrus punch of lime. Emboldened, I ventured into the blocks of gradually melting yellow stuff that revealed itself as turmeric frozen yogurt; good but quite odd. The orange discs of pickled papaya were quite pungent and the dots of yogurt had a beautifully strong ginger heat; not quite designed to be eaten on their own. Finally, after a lot of deft work, I maneuvered all the elements into a single spoon and was rewarded with a veritable explosion of flavour and texture.



Pickled Papaya


My dining partner selected Char-Grilled Ciku with Palm Sugar and Thyme; the embodiment of warm, sweet tropical flavour. The first thing to hit us was the intense aroma from the caramelized ciku; the fruit’s naturally strong perfume gathers still more depth and character when the abundant sugars brown. As though dissatisfied with the beautifully nuanced palm sugar ice cream he created, the chef included chunks of the raw stuff to be sure. Definitely one for those with a sweet tooth.



Ciku


To finish off, we had petit fours of Lemon Madeleines and Chocolate Fudge. Dainty and elegant, the madeleines were buttery, fluffy and sweet with a subtle lemon fragrance. On the other hand, the pistachio-studded fudge proved robust, it was very dense, very chewy and very, very sweet.



Lemon Madeleine

Friday, January 21, 2011

Iggy's

Iggy’s – Level 3, The Hilton Hotel, 581 Orchard Road, Singapore



Iggy's


Food is a very subjective area so simultaneously being The Miele Guide Asia’s Number One Restaurant (2010/11) and making it onto the S. Pellegrino list of the World's 50 Best Restaurants (2010) is about as close to objective excellence as Iggy's could possibly get.



Bar


I not only scored a lunch reservation for two at the Singapore Hilton's crown jewel but also no less than ringside bar seats at the open-concept patissier section. It would not be an exaggeration to describe restauranteur extraordinaire Ignatius Chan's fusion cuisine as a tingly, fuzzily pleasurable dream-like experience. It is profusion of flavours one struggles to sort and place amid a near-constant state of delirious ecstasy; sort of like being a gastronomic Alice in Wonderland. It did come at an equally surreal bill of $282.48 for two though.



Menu


I thoroughly enjoyed the Ceviche of Kiname with Ankimo Sauce and Ostrecia Caviar. The pleasantly pungent ceviche was amazing with the punchy flavour of the monkfish liver sauce while what appeared to be a half-cooked potato sliver was an ingenious and effective base for the marine brininess of the caviar.



Kiname


At first, the amuse bouche of Eggplant Garlic Bread with Parmesan & Salt Smoked Butter actually looked disappointingly mundane. Even the bread itself had a simple crusty chew that was pleasant but did not set off any fireworks. However - like a sprinkling of fairy dust - the smoked butter made my eyes widen in amazement. The sweet butter base made a bold, gorgeously potent smokiness pop; that being the dominant flavour instead of a more subdued yet still distinct garlic accent. The occasional salt crystal provided just the hint of saline tang needed.



Smoked Butter


My first course was Duck Confit with Yukon Gold Potato, Mache and Alba Black Truffle which left me unsure of where to start with the numerous discs of black truffle littering it. The meat was superbly soft and not overly salty the way confits tend to be. Nevertheless, that truffle earthiness still went best with the potato purée. So sweet, silky smooth and creamy yet not in any way gummy, I initially mistook it for some sort of cream sauce; with a sliver of black truffle, it was a truffled mash unlike any I've had before.



Duck


My dining partner opted for the Kohada with Tomato, Clementine, Mango, Quinoa and Beet instead which had a creative blend of flavours from nutty quinoa, sweet beetroot and tart mango. Her only lament was that the raw fish was quite fishy.



Kohada


My second course continued with more truffle decadence, this time the even more luxurious white variety; Spaghettini with Poultry Jus and Alba White Truffle Shavings. If I had to describe the Spaghettini in a single word, it would be intense. The jus was so incredibly concentrated that its wonderful umaminess had a mildly bitter edge, going magnificently with that heady truffle perfume. The noodles added a hint of bite and body to a dish that gives one an idea of what pure flavour might be. The three grams of Alba White Truffle came at a $45++ supplement.



Spaghettini


My dining partner's second course was equally decadent; Gnocchi with Truffle Salsa and Poached Egg. The truffle salsa was lumpy with what appeared to be coarsely minced black truffle; it likely was if the generous earthy flavour was any guide. A mouthful of tiny, pliantly chewy gnocchi dripping with that rich, aromatic mush indemnified any unceremoniousness that came with piercing the poached egg and stirring that rich yellow goop into the thick mess.



Gnocchi


My main course of Lamb with Baba Ganoush and Cornbread seemed like four dishes in one as I had the excruciating pleasure of choosing between savouring the meltingly tender meat nude, coated with sweet and crisp cornmeal, dabbed with creamy baba ganoush or with a pungent clove of roasted garlic.



Lamb


My dining partner's main was a dramatically presented John Dory with Asparagus and Watermelon Radish. The flaky fish was coated in a deliciously crispy spicy Cajun batter to which smooth, creamy asparagus purée provided a juxtaposition of flavour and texture.



John Dory


Her dessert of Soursop with Baby Tomato, Cherry and Mascarpone that followed was the ideal fruity, tangy, palate-cleansing close to the meal. The acidic sorbet went remarkably with the dense, sweet cake while the paper-thin sheet of crystallized watermelon sugar provided clean, fruity flavour in addition to aesthetic appeal.



Soursop


My dessert of Cinnamon Ice Cream with Textures of Chocolate & Mandarin was breathtakingly assembled before our eyes at the bar. I have always adored pairing rich dark chocolate with refreshing citrus perfume but the added smoky spice of cinnamon transports things to an entirely different plane.



Chocolate


The mouthfeel of four different textures of chocolate was unlike anything I experienced before; velvety mousse, chewy brownie, coarse cookie rubble and the glorious snap of dark chocolate all in a single mouthful. The last was only possible through meticulous monitoring of the chocolate as it was tempered; with a nifty thermo-gun.



Thermogun



As a side point, I just adore their Coffee ($6) mugs.



Coffee

Thursday, January 13, 2011

Garibaldi

As Fatlittleboy nears its 10,000th page view and as my time in Singapore draws to a close, I shall piece together a grand finale of sorts. Lined up over the next few weeks is a selection of Singapore’s definitive fine-dining establishments. These are the big players found in the Miele Guide and on the S. Pellegrino list, offering up ultimate decadence at – some might say – ultimate prices.


The scrimping and saving of military pittance wouldn’t have funded me through the door so a huge “thank you” must be given to my parents for an extremely generous and undeserved allowance as well as dining companions/financiers upon whose appetite and benevolence this was all possible.



Interior



Garibaldi – 36 Purvis Street #01-02, Singapore 188613



Garibaldi


This 7-year-old eatery is one of the most decorated around, ranking 7th in the Miele Guide of Asia’s Finest Restaurants 2008/2009, bagging both Restaurant AND Restauranteur (Chef Roberto Galetti) of the Year at the 2009 World Gourmet Summit as well as making it to both Singapore Tatler’s and Wine & Dine Magazine’s lists of top restaurants for 6 consecutive years. That’s just an excerpt from the lengthy list, mind you.



Bar


From my perspective, I found the food every bit as sensational as one could possibly expect and huddling in a comfy chair amidst diffused lighting on a drizzly day certainly scored for cozy ambience; but it was the spectacular service that really transported things. My agnolotti bordered on gastronomic nirvana yet it is the warm conversation and cheery smile of my waitress that would make me remember Garibaldi the next time I’m in town. An extravagant lunch with a full-blown seasonal degustation* for two and a 6-course a la carte selection for one amounted to $514.35.



IMG_9598


The Sundried Tomato Foccacia amuse bouche was served hot enough to make you feel pleasantly warmed yet cool enough to be comfortably handled. What I remember the most was the mouth feel of remarkable crustiness and moist fluffiness in each bite without a gradient in between, this more so than the safe, classical flavour profile.



Amuse Bouche


Pio Tosini Parma Ham Prosciutto with Traditional Romagna Fried Dough ($25) wowed with the subtle pungency and robust porcine character of aged, dry-cured, spiced Italian ham sourced from an artisanal curing company with a 105 year history.



Proscuitto



On top of that, one wraps the ham around crisp, buttery hollow dough puffs that were warm and sweet to juxtapose the meat’s cool saltiness.



Proscuitto Wrap


It is not humanly possible to turn down Wagyu Beef Carpaccio with Parmigiano Cheese and Rocket Salad ($28), no offence to vegetarians. I daresay Carpaccio is the ultimate way to enjoy quality beef – flavours are most potent when enjoyed in the raw – especially wrapped around a shaving of sweet-salty Parmigiano and a forkful of astringent rocket.



Carpaccio


Course one of the Menu Stagionale ($138) was a single Coffin Bay Oyster with Caviar and I appreciated how the incredibly creamy yet subtly-flavoured Australian Pacific variety formed the perfect decadent yet subdued platform for the marine salinity of black gold to take the spotlight.



Ostrica


The Pan Seared Hokkaido Scallop with Caponata & Liquorice that followed was another treat. I have yet to get over the magic of Hokkaido scallops since my brush with Absinthe’s Carpaccio of them that I savoured in July and this dish served to ignite rather than diminish my fascination. Firm and meaty with a crisp outer sear and a sweet, yieldingly chewy interior, I sliced off tiny fractions to make the shellfish last as long as possible; which still was a flash. The thick, stew-like vegetable caponata accompanying the scallops was brilliantly refreshing with its vibrant, sweet-sour mixture of tomato and aubergine too.



Capesante


The Pumpkin soup with Truffle Mascarpone Cheese intrigued me as you sort of assemble your own truffled cream of pumpkin by stirring together the globules of aromatic truffle oil and creamy mascarpone suspended in the smooth pumpkin puree. The end result was sweet, smooth and brimming with that wonderful pungent earthiness I love about truffles.



Pumpkin Soup


As a comparison, the a la carte Soup of the Day ($16) was a lovely carrot soup with crab. Suffused with sweet crustacean flavour, it was incredibly aromatic and the tender crab provided a hint of bite to the smooth puree.



Carrot Soup


Course number four of the seasonal menu was perhaps my favourite of the lot, Ox-Tail Beef Agnolotti with Celery Root Purea & Pistachio. I have always liked stuffed pasta but while more common raviolis are filled with a paste of ricotta or a puree of pumpkin, Agnolotti takes things a step further with a fully solid filling; slivers of tender ox-tail in this case. The bold flavour of the meat was matched with a gorgeous herby, classical browned butter with sage. One particular agnolotti crowned with a sage leaf (visible below) was a veritable explosion of flavour on my tongue that left my taste buds in delicious shell shock.



Agnolotti


After the splendour of the agnolotti, the dramatically presented Pan Fried Jumbo Prawns with San Marzano Tomatoes and Orange did not shine quite so brightly. The famed sauce tomatoes did make for a spectacular, rich sweetness in the gravy but I found the enormous, meaty shrimp a tad overdone. Still it was good, very good.



Gamberi


The Roasted Australian Lamb Rack with Caramelized Pearl Onion & Mustard Sauce was truly a work of carnivorous art; I paused for a long moment to revel in that wonderful aroma and breathtaking sight before tucking in with gusto. Pink, juicy and packing meaty, ovine punch; medium rare is lamb enjoyed at its prime state to me. The side of caramelized shallots was downright dreamy with a sugary sweetness worthy of dessert status.



Carre


The a la carte selection made at the table was for First Grade Angus Beef Tenderloin with Potato Gratin and Red Wine Sauce ($48). My dining companion ordered his tenderloin done medium well but it still managed to be superbly tender and moist, I was in awe. The halo of sweet carrot balls and crunchy zucchini lumps around the glorious hunk of beast certainly made for a pretty picture. Would I be wrong to think that Chef Roberto Galetti serves up authentic Italian fare with the aesthetic finesse normally found in the French?



Manzo


My dessert was a Rhubarb Tart Amaretti and Chocolate Coulis that was certainly pleasing if not groundbreaking. I loved the tangy chunk of rhubarb I unearthed within that soft almond cookie as much as the wonderfully tart sorbet crowning it. The chocolate coulis was good on its own but seemed at odds with the other components to me.



Tarteletta


The dessert my companion chose a la carte was a Lava Cake that was certainly good as he’s quite a connoisseur of this confection and it’s his standard order here.



Lava


* A second degustation menu's also available for $98++ but it was much more tame.

Tuesday, January 11, 2011

Scratchley's

Scratchley’s – 200 Wharf Road, Newcastle, New South Wales



Resaurant Exterior


Newcastle is a mere two hours drive away from Sydney and offers a great escape with some beautiful beaches and sensational seafood. One place that a visit to Newcastle is not complete without a meal at is Scratchley’s. A veritable institution located right on the water, it offers a stunning view of the harbour, if you can spare a moment to look up from your plate that is.



View


The seafood was spectacular even though my visit during the Christmas – New Year period meant that I didn’t get a chance to try out the famed “Specials”, an ever-changing menu available during off-peak periods which is constructed according to the seasonal fish hauled in. A lunch for five amounted to $285, complete with drinks all round.



Restaurant Interior


I started out with Scratchley’s Famous Char-grilled Antipasto ($19); this appetiser portion is conveniently half the size and price of having it as a main. Every single marine critter was done complete justice despite the immense variety on my plate; each one was grilled its individual point of perfection balancing flavourful char and springy softness or delicate flakiness where appropriate. The squid was likely the best I’ve ever had with a yielding chew and a remarkable sweetness I had never tasted in squid before. However, it was ultimately the plump, juicy baby octopus accentuated by a robust, coarse basil-almond pesto that stole the show completely and which continues to defy adequate description.


Grilled Antipasto



Another starter popular at our table was the Scratchley’s Seafood Chowder ($15) with a masterfully executed classical Velouté base of light stock thickened with blond roux. Smooth and adequately yet not overpoweringly flavoured, it set a new standard that typically lumpy, over-thickened and starchy chowders fall far short of. A solid combination of vegetables like carrots, corn kernels and scallions supported the sweet shrimp, pliantly chewy octopus and tender fish, all chopped into bits that were large enough to be distinguished on the tongue yet small enough so as not to detract from the velvety smooth feel.



Chowder


The Garlic King Prawns Sautéed in Garlic, Shallot, White Wine and Cream Sauce with Steamed Basmati Rice ($19) was quite breathtaking with that gorgeously glossy sauce napping the massive prawns and gradually soaking into fluffy grains.



Garlic King Prawn


Both the Garlic Bread ($5) and Herb & Cheese Bread ($5) were pillow-soft and extremely fluffy. A mere half-centimeter layer of flavouring agent on the surface of the bread provided all the punch and character necessary. This allowed both bread and spread to harmonise but remain distinct, thus avoiding the typical soggy saturatedness or rock-hard crispness found in most flavoured breads.



Garlic Bread



Herb & Cheese Bread


My Red Emperor Fillet Dusted in Cajun Spices on Smashed Kipfler Potatoes with Char-Grilled Balsamic Vegetables, Carrot & Ginger Raitha and Sweet Potato Curls ($38) was every bit as spectacular as that wonderfully detailed description promised. Firm and moist, it was fragrantly spiced yet subtly enough that the natural flavour of the supremely fresh fish was not overwhelmed but further accentuated by a creamy, tangy raitha sauce. The coarse mash had a mind-boggling array of flavour and texture from sweet pepper to salty zucchini and mealy potato, all perfumed with a generous amount of thyme.



Red Emperor


I couldn’t cross-examine my fellow diners for their opinions on their own mains but I think the pictures alone will suffice as more than adequate descriptions!



Scratchley's


Blue Eye Cod Fillet Roasted in Thai Flavours with a Corn & Coriander Crust on Saffron & Lime Basmati Pilaf and Green Curry Coconut Sauce ($35).


Blue Eye Cod



Snapper Fillet Roasted in Lemon, Garlic & Thyme on a Salad of Black Lentils, Preserved Lemon, Pine Nuts & Coriander with Coconut Yoghurt Dressing ($38).



Snapper


Tender Calamari Golden-Fried with Real Tartare Sauce & Lemon ($32).



Calamari