Friday, September 17, 2010

2am:dessertbar, back for more!

2am: dessertbar – 21A Lorong Liput, Holland Village


For the frequency with which I visit 2am:dessertbar, I don't blog about the place nearly enough. I could wax lyrical ad infinitum about the avant garde desserts presented so gorgeously that you can't bear to eat them and which blow your preconceptions of dessert archetypes to smithereens when you do. Chef Janice seems to specialise in taking the immutable and turning it on its head. The service is among the best I've experienced with a distinct personal touch that makes this über-chic joint ooze with warmth, something typically impossible. But as I said, 2am:dessertbar is anything but typical.


For a good overview of what they have to offer, I recommend the 4x4. A painstakingly crafted menu of 4 desserts, each paired with a wine that alters and amplifies; taking the wonderful into the realm of magical. Cab Fare: $12. Meal for two: $107.80. Experiencing untold pleasure: Priceless.


We started off with a delightful surprise of Yuzu and Paprika Chocolates, compliments of Chef Derrick. My dining partner's expression of combined bliss and wonderment pretty much sums up the combined effect of Yuzu and Chocolate with that floral citrus tang balancing smooth bitter chocolate. The 2 little lumps of gold did not even last long enough to be photographed. The bronze ore below is Paprika Chocolate, a first for me which threatens the supremacy of chilli chocolate in my book. The spice adds a robust smokiness and heat just shy of being too intense that accentuates the equally dominant chocolate flavours.



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The first course on the menu was Purple, a violet and indigo caterpillar of sweet, rich purple potato purée, thick blackberry parfait, tangy fruits of the forest sorbet and leather lavender marshmallows that lap at the palate like creamy-crested waves of tranquillity.



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The dessert's fruit and flower theme was upheld in the wine pairing of Kir Royale, a combination of 1+1=3 Cava Rosé and Crème de Cassis. The blackcurrant liquor gave the sparkling wine a dose of added character and a gorgeous, seductive finish.



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Course number two was a sweet-savoury masterpiece called Popcorn. Various creamy mounds offered sporadic flashes of simple flavours like peanut butter and freshly toasted bread while a pile of crispy rubble turned out to be salty crumbled popcorn. Dill flowers were fragrant, herby bursts in the delightful tangle which was finally underwritten by a scoop of yuzu sorbet. If the individual elements were wonderful deconstructions of familiar food, having them all together smashes all notions previously held for a bewildering sensorial rush.



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The pairing of Prophet's Rock Pinot Gris 2007 was a stabilizing juxtaposition. Amidst the beautiful chaos of Popcorn, its clean finish and ample acidity clears your head and sharpens the focus of your taste buds for yet another psychedelic high.



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It was my friend's firm favourite but - to me - the jury's still out on the Vinegar Chocolate Table. Intense and sharp, the vinegar in the vinegar chocolate mousse totally eclipses all else for a lip-pursing, shiver-inducing experience. It grew a little cloying after the first few mouthfuls though. The crispy caramel morsels were pleasant albeit embedded in the mousse, as was the chocolate 'table' all that was under.



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Paired with that is an equally sharp Tintoralba Garnacha Syrah 2007. Deliberately allowed to oxidise excessively, the wine balances a hair's breadth away from vinegar; complete with that potent, vinegary smell.



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Compliments of Chef Derrick once again (Am I spoiled or what?) was a Trio of Sorbets. Apparently he notices the joy written plain on my face every time I tuck into his frozen creations. I've yet to find another lemon sorbet with acid and sugar in such perfect balance and ice crystals as fine as his, parting soft and smooth in each snowy mouthful. The blood orange balls were far less sour but with an intense floral note, it was utterly magnificent stuff. Even more intriguing was the grapefruit with its tart and bitter undertones; studded with what seemed like grapefruit marshmallows. It contrasted two different kinds of softness; that of yielding semi-solid sorbet and chewy, spongy sugary confection.



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Finishing things off with a bang was my favourite of the quartet, Alpaco Chilli Chocolate - generously spiced chocolate with peanut butter and wheat ice cream. Scorching chilli padi heat renders taste buds tender and sensitive only to be summarily flooded by the sensorial overload of rich, dark chocolate. The rush you get likely outstrips that of strapping yourself to a rocket. For wimps, the lovely, creamy ice cream is always on hand to douse a chilli inferno. We couldn't restrain ourselves so the pic below is actually of a slightly eaten dessert!



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This was paired with Valdivia Pedro Ximenez, a syrupy nectar that similarly threatens to overwhelm; this time with sugary intensity. Thick honeyed notes cling to the tongue for a lingering luxuriant finish.



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Choupinette

Choupinette – 607 Bukit Timah Road #01-01


Ah, the joys of a French Cafe. Tucked in a little nook along Bukit Timah, Choupinette is a cosy eatery with a bare handful of tables and chairs that are virtually always filled. A largely expatriate crowd typically gathers for leisurely weekend brunches, picking up a gorgeous loaf of freshly baked bread from a sizable variety in wall-mounted baskets on their way out. Prices are consequently significantly above the norm though you are paying for quality, brunch for 2 amounted to $92.40.



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If the Bread Basket amuse bouche was anything to go by, I'll be back for a loaf of bread soon. Soft, airy and light, it had a gorgeous chewy yet yielding crust.



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Oddly, the coffee that came with my brunch set (described later) came first. I found the Doppio Espresso of middling strength, pleasant yet not the rocket fuel I typically favour.



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I could not go without an a-la-carte Le Croque Monsieur ($17), a French working-class signature of a grilled ham sandwich cloaked in molten cheese. The generous amount of shaved ham had been lovingly crisped at the edges and stuffed between slices of fluffy white bread. Now, bursting at the seams, it is plugged and sealed in a sheath of mild cheese – Emmental's my guess - for an exquisitely decadent result.



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Following this, I found true love in the scandalously-priced Eggs Benedict Set ($20). At ten bucks an egg, the bar was set extremely high but it was arguably met. The eggs were absolutely perfect with a fragile, just-solid white holding a liquid yolk together. They were clearly fresh as my first yolk slithered out of the white still whole, oozing gooey golden goodness only when prodded. The Hollandaise napping it was pretty much the best I've ever had; rich and creamy without being too heavy, it was balanced by the most delicate lemon tang. I doubt I could've returned a cleaner plate once I was done mopping the drippings with crusty bread.



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The set came with a very light, mildly-flavoured Cranberry Juice which was daintily tart and not too bitter.



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My dining partner started off with Le Gazpacho de Monsieur Jason ($11). Thick, sweet and mildly herbaceous, it was perfectly refreshing on what was a hot, muggy day.



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He then moved onto the Papi's Set ($36) which set the stage with a Salad de Mélange of super sweet, orange-hued cherry tomatoes and lightly dressed crisp greens.



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Course two was a much anticipated Daube Provencal avec de Frites or Provencal-style beef stew with homemade fries. The beef was excellently done in my opinion, retaining a semblance of bite just shy of being melt-in-your-mouth. With tender, sweet carrots and a wealth of flavour from a generous amount of shallots, it easily induced sighs of pleasure.



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All that was washed down with Grapefruit Juice that was as light and clean-tasting as the earlier cranberry. Neither too sweet nor too sour, it was pleasantly balanced.



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The set is rounded off with any dessert from their repertoire and we went for a dramatic Cream Puff about the size of a rugby ball. This proved to be the one weak link though; the custard filling was delightfully creamy and subtly sweet but proved way too much for one to attempt to finish alone. Furthermore, the choux pastry was dry and almost hard, a far cry from the soft chew I'm used to.



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Thursday, September 2, 2010

Esmirada

Esmirada - 442 Orchard Road, #01-29 The Orchard Hotel


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I'm not one to judge a book by its cover but I knew I was in for a treat when I stepped into this gorgeous lamp lit, stone-tiled Mediterranean eatery and wine bar.


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Esmirada at The Orchard Hotel is able to bring elegance to rusticity with its lovely beaten-copper menus and tables of aged wood.


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The $18.90 2-course set lunch or $22.50 with dessert is arguably one of the best around with an excellent selection. My dining partner and I opted for the former and supplemented a little. My first course was a delicious Potato Corbasi, a hearty potato, onion and cabbage soup of Turkish origin that is richly flavoured with Paprika. Its sweet warmth was just the thing to whet my appetite.


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The soup was divine when mopped up with robustly garlicky and generously buttery Garlic Bread, served as an entire baguette.


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Ever conscious of her svelte figure, my dining partner went for a salad of Feta, Lettuce, Tomatoes, Onions, Cucumbers and Bell Peppers with Oregano Dressing. The crisp vegetables and plump, sweet tomatoes were gorgeously presented and were good if nothing magical.


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In the mood for meat, I went with Pan-Roasted Lamb Steak in Rosemary Wine Sauce with Potato Wedges and Ratatouille for my main. Done rarer than what I'm used to for a medium rare, the lamb was superbly tender and juicy with a subtle ovinity beneath layers of cloaking herbs. The red wine sauce was a tad bitter but the ratatouille was magnificent and not too sour as I've come to typically expect. The natural, crisp and unadorned wedges were just the thing to soak up any drippings.


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I paired this with a recommended Merlot-Shiraz ($13) blend that was deliciously fruity and tannin-free with a wonderful floral bouquet.


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My friend chose the Grilled Swordfish with Grilled Salsa Vegetables and Saffron Rice and - while pleased - was not quite as impressed as I was with mine. The firm fish had good char for smokiness but the vegetables and rice it had for a stage were unremarkable.


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This was paired with a Riesling ($13) that she found not quite to her taste either for it was quite sweet, bordering on the sugar of a dessert wine.


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