Taste Matters

Taste Matters – 501 Bukit Timah Road, C;uny Court #02-19

While I'd never say no to dining in a massive, fancy, Michelin-starred restaurant; it's in the little eateries that my heart truly lies. These holes-in-the-wall and corner shops are where you see dedicated people with a true passion and zeal for their craft, unmarred by commercialism and untainted by the money-grubbingness that plagues the big names and their investors. Taste Matters at Cluny Court is one of these little gems, started by Chef Richard Ang and his wife Janelle.

He led me - by my taste buds - through an orchard where the fruits of his labour, dreams and experience from as far afield as Macau lay sweet and ripe. For $28.70, I received not only a meal but a heart-warming experience I won't soon forget.

(If you're sharp, you might spot the "No Photography" warning which I was kindly exempted from.)

First up was a complimentary tasting of his frozen confections which began with Lavender Ice Cream. This I adored so much that I ordered a full serving with French Tuile. Intensely flowery, creamy and rich, it highlighted the characteristic boldness of flavour that all the desserts here share. Even the buttery Tuile was not left out; it had a speckling of black sesame for a robust Asian twist. The marked absence of a purple hue reveals Chef Richard's sincere approach to everything; he states proudly that no artificial colouring is used.

Second on the list was Sea Salt & Caramel Ice Cream, this time the intensity came from the delicious Japanese sea salt ice cream which bordered on being savoury; utterly lovely stuff.

Refreshing and sweet, the South African Gala Apple Sorbet surprised me with the depth of its apple flavour. Departing from its afterthought status behind cinnamon and clove in apple pies or sauce, the fruit takes the spotlight with its crisp sweetness.

Finishing the quartet was Yuzu Ice Cream. That's right yuzu ice cream, NOT sorbet. It was a real symbiosis of the usually disparate elements of acid and dairy. Resplendent with yuzu's heady yet refreshing perfume, it was light, creamy and tart all at the same time; not unlike frozen yoghurt when I think about it.

Gleefully, Chef Richard passed us a Sablé Breton Cookie each, explaining its etymology as “Sands of Brittany" due to its fine, sand-like crumbs. Be warned, these rich, buttery shortbread cookies are extremely moreish!

I could not resist the Crème Brûlée with its lovingly crisped burnt-sugar crust and intoxicating aroma. Very light and surprisingly close to liquidity, it was a welcome change from the cloyingly-rich custards one typically encounters. This would likely be as close to guiltlessness as crème brûlée could possibly get.

Unable to get enough yuzu - as usual - I opted for a Yuzu Curd Tart (and bundled home a freshly-baked lemon one). Once again robustly floral and citrusy, the tangy curd was couched by a classic buttery short crust base.

My dining partner (who's a regular and recommended the place) sipped on a freshly brewed Latte and I on an Americano as we chatted with Chef Richard about his richly aromatic and balanced coffee. No cutting of corners here, it takes him about three minutes from grinding to filtering, turning pure Arabica beans into caffeine-infused elixir.

Jones the Grocer

Jones the Grocer – 333A Orchard Road, #04-21/23 Mandarin Gallery

Few things can get me out of bed on a Saturday morning but the gorgeous oven-fresh pastries from Jones count among them. Piled on a row of uncovered platters at 9am, their rich perfume amalgam of butter and yeast quickly and luxuriously permeates the chic cafe. Thereafter, it wafts out to fill much of the top floor of Mandarin Gallery, luring droves in with an aroma so exquisite it borders on inhalant abuse.

Fret not, breakfast here doesn't cost an arm and a leg despite the location, a full breakfast and comprehensive selection of pastries for 2 cost $60.50.

I will not keep you in cruel trepidation; the crowning glory of the selection would - without a doubt - be the Croissants ($2.50 ea). Flaky and crisp on the outside, the delicate crust yields in a shower of golden-brown petals to reveal the richly buttery, subtly sweet and fluffy-feathery interior. The combination of crunch and airy softness, soft chew and indescribable fragrance renders it absolutely to die for, even without the thick strawberry preserve and generous pat of smooth butter served alongside.

A hop, skip and jump away is the Pain Au Chocolat ($3.50) which is essentially all that croissant glory enrobing amedi toscano black chocolate. Rich and robust, the chocolate tastes halfway between dark and milk chocolate with sufficient depth and character for my dark chocolate desires while possessing enough creamy sweetness for my firmly milk-chocolate-loving dining buddy.

The Blueberry Muffin ($4) is another must-try for it puts the usual gummy, artificial-flavoured, phoney-coloured knock-offs to shame. With a rich and crunchy crumble topping, dense and moist cake as well as thick, sweet blueberry jam filling practically bursting with fruity flavour; your first bite will reveal what you've been missing all this while.

Be warned, the cute, dainty Cupcakes ($4.50 ea) here are for those with a sweet tooth! All three share the same light vanilla sponge base but have different frostings. For one, the Raspberry Cupcake had a generous mound of decadently sweet buttercream with berries actually blended in for a natural flavour and the odd crunchy seed adding textural intrigue. A tart raspberry filling would've added a great deal in my opinion as the sweetness began to overwhelm a few bites into my half; my dining buddy seconded that between bites of his.

The waves of vivid yellow frosting on the Lemon Cupcake accorded it a truly delightful lemony fragrance. It was almost as sweet as its pink predecessor but a smidgeon less frosting meant it wasn't quite as cloying. A touch of tangy, palate-refreshing lemon curd would not be lost on it either. The strongest showing of the trio came from the Chocolate Cupcake. Rich and generously chocolatey, the thick and fudgy frosting totally hit the spot.

All that sugariness called for a savoury main as balance so we zeroed in on the Spanish Eggs en Cocotte ($19.50) supplemented with a side of Grilled Pork Sausages ($4). The bacon-crowned eggs were baked to firmness in a clay dish and napped in a sweet, subtly-flavoured tomato sauce that my dining buddy gleefully mopped up with the thick slices of crusty bread it was served with.

With a satisfied sigh, he washed all that down with a Mocha Mudslide ($7). Sweet, milky and chocolatey with a relatively mild dose of caffeine, this creamy drink was his perfect fix.

Requiring some rocket fuel as usual, an Affogato ($6.50) was my obvious choice and I've been craving another since! Espresso and vanilla ice cream are really a match made in heaven, especially when the former is electric-shock strong and the latter a velvety caress for a true harmony of opposites. Not too sweet and wonderfully thick, this was a world of bliss in a tiny cup.

Au Petit Salut

Au Petit Salut – 40C Harding Road, Tanglin Village (Dempsey)

There's something to be said about good food in a gorgeous setting. The same cuisine is somehow transported to a whole new level when savoured within a tranquil sanctuary or before a breathtaking vista.

Au Petit Salut is one place that takes full advantage of its beautiful Dempsey Road location. Just reserve an al fresco table, fork out $48++ for an executive set lunch and prepare yourself for one of life's most exquisite pleasures.

The amuse bouche Bread Basket was as good as bread baskets get. The warm rolls were fluffy and soft beneath a crunchy crust while the lovely chewy ciabatta was gorgeous with an indulgent smear of sweet butter.

Thick, rich and creamy, the Lobster Bisque with Tarragon and Lobster Ravioli was a concentrated reduction of crustacean flavour that's so intense it clouded all the other senses momentarily.

With a supplement of $5, I indulged on Pan Seared Duck Foie Gras with Baby Spinach and Onions in Xeres Sauce as my starter. Done daringly rare, the exterior was delicately crisp, breaking apart to yield a truly semi-solid and luxuriously creamy interior. The Xeres sauce was a tad salty though.

The third member of my lunch trio went for the Set Lunch ($30) and started off with Sliced Vine Ripened Roma Tomatoes with Mozzarella Cheese and Balsamic Vinegar. It was a well-executed if typical Caprese Salad with remarkably sweet tomatoes.

The focus of Crispy French Duck Confit with Sauteed Potatoes, Bacon and Mixed Greens with Walnut Dressing was strangely not the duck. The flavour-packed walnut oil was an attention-grabbing change from overused extra virgin olive oil, possessing oodles more character besides. Mealy potatoes were excellent with sinful cubes of pork crackling nestled amongst them if the crisp duck skin was not decadent enough. Ladies and Gents, leave that calorie counter at home.

Pan Seared Beef Tenderloin with Shallot Confit and Mashed Potatoes in Red Wine Sauce was perhaps the show-stealer at a supplement of $5. A tender medium left the magnificent cut of meat with good bite while the buttery mash cradled the sweet caramelised onions like a lover in its silky smooth arms.

The set meal came with a less flamboyant but no less gratifying Shredded Confit of Lamb with Shallots, Carrots, Celery and Mashed Potato. An excellent Shepherd's Pie, the sweet and creamy mash was delightfully crisped at the top. Its filling was a peerless lamb stew, herby and brimming with ovine flavour; the concentrated nectar of a stock definitely deserves credit. All that soaked into the lower layers of mash which sealed the casserole, turning it into a luxuriously buttery, rosemary-accented and lamb-infused gloop.

Desserts were much anticipated and proved every bit as divine as the past courses. Light and generously citrussy, the Orange and Grand Marnier Soufflé was eggy and custardy if not exactly smooth in consistency. Wonderfully puffed up and golden brown, it was really quite breathtaking.

An even greater guilty pleasure was the Warm Melted 70% Chocolate Cake with 64% Chocolate Sorbet, Red Currant Jam & Pistachio Nuts. The cake was excellent even with jaded lava cakes now increasingly ubiquitous. Moist and rich, the spongy outer layer yielded to reveal a particularly thick and chocolatey ganache which was balanced by the vivid currant reduction. Next to that, the sorbet seemed a tad thin though.

The set lunch's Creme Brulee with Madagascar Vanilla Bean was served cold but magnificent otherwise. A surprisingly liberal speckling of vanilla beans accorded a delightful depth of vanilla flavour to the thick custard. The crisp layer of burnt sugar was quite thick, lending a lovely caramel warmth and liberal sweetness to all that creaminess.