Cafébiz

Cafébiz – 1A Cuscaden Road, Ground Floor, The Trader’s Hotel

For this month alone, the trader’s hotel by Shangri-La has flown in guest chefs from Shangri-La Chiang Mai to spice up its buffet spread at Cafebiz. This restaurant has always had an eclectic and extensive spread catering to western tourists’ cautious appetite for Asian exotica. This was reflected in the Thai additions to its selection which – while authentic – were obviously watered down in terms of spice. That said, for $53 per person for Sunday dinner, this is well worth checking out.

Starting off with soups, the Tom Yam Kung was the only thing that satisfied my appetite for spice with numerous potent little chilli padis swimming about with crunchy, sweet prawns when I stirred the massive tureen. The creamy and rich Fish Chowder existed mainly to quell the flames of its spicier counterpart as it itself was unremarkable with a mild flavour and only tiny, stray chunks of fish.

For my first round at the buffet table, I started off with the two quintessential Thai staples; Pineapple Rice and Phad Thai. While the rice was unremarkable with too little of the fruits sweetness or acidity, the noodles shone as – on top of having that soft, chewy texture that I love about rice noodles in general – one could use a variety of condiments including Thai fish sauce and chilli powder to augment the flavours to one’s specifications.

Thord Man Pla (Thai Fish Cake) always has a wonderful medley of flavours from the spice mixture used that typically contains a generous amount of fragrant lemongrass and coriander. This version lacked that lip-smacking spicy kick and was a little on the dry side; a Thai chilli-sauce accompaniment could have easily remedied both problems.

Kra Pro Nue (Stir-Fried Beef with Basil Leaves) comprised tender strips of meat well-infused with a sauce that was the veritable embodiment of lovely basil flavour which also breathed new life into the hitherto bland pineapple rice.

The Thai Curried Prawns were rather large and perfectly cooked to a yielding crunch though the sauce had a little too much coconut milk. Pla Kapong Rad Prik (Deep Fried Sea Bass Topped with Chilli Sauce) had sat in the closed container for too long and was no longer crispy. Aside from that, it was amazing with a vibrantly sweet and tangy sauce that was jazzed up with curry leaves.

A buffet spread is sadly never complete without the ubiquitous Stir Fried Mixed Vegetables, which was bland – as always – despite having an alternate moniker of Pad Pak Ruamit. The Gratinated Oysters were overcooked and hard, rather tragic for they were massive specimens which would have been phenomenal if treated right.

I was somewhat surprised to discover Vegetable Jalfrezy and Dal Makhani amidst the myriad for they are lesser-known Indian dishes compared to typical chicken or fish-head curry. They were decently executed though, the Jalfrezy was a good balance of spicy and sour while the Dal was rich and creamy if a little undercooked.

Eggplant in Tomato Sauce completed my first round of dishes with a blandness that was made even starker by the intense flavours of the Thai and Indian food.

The Char Siew Pau was so good it warranted a second helping. Chock full of generous strips of lean yet tender meat napped in a deliciously caramelly sauce, it was an indicator of how the Chinese chefs at Cafebiz really know their stuff. The dim sum offerings were of a similarly high standard with diminutive Siew Mai served ingeniously and deliciously with a sweet sauce more commonly seen alongside fried liver rolls.

I am not usually a fan of Kueh Pai Tee (too messy for this neurotic) but the intriguing minced-meat topping as opposed to the usual turnip-carrot mixture won me over.

In an obscure corner next to the untouched breads lay two unlabelled items (my pet peeve after bad service): a massive Baked Fish and Crispy Rice Balls. The former was crisp and meaty with a trace of fishiness that was masked by an excellent Thai Chilli Sauce. The latter was coated with an interesting sweet and piquant glaze but was a little on the hard side. A messily explosive crunch also sent bits flying in all directions should one attempt to cut it.

From the salad station, the Yam Hed Kem Thang Goong Sod (Spicy Enoki Mushrooms with Shrimp) was simple and pleasant though the prawns were a little overcooked and lacking heat overall. The signature Tam Ma Maung (Thai Green Mango Salad) delivered a good hit of spice though the fruit was perhaps a little tired and was more soft than crunchy. Yum Nua (thai Beef Salad) was very flavourful with a good sour tang that complimented the lightly spiced beef while the Larb Gai (Spicy Minced Chicken) was a little tough but redeemed by the texture of glass noodles which I just adore.

The Stir Fried Squid with Vegetables in Abalone Sauce was rather tough and the rich sauce turned out to be quite bland; one of the more disappointing dishes in the spread. The Braised Beef Rib Bourguignon was a valiant attempt though a longer braising period would have allowed the flavour of the red wine sauce to better meld with the meat.

The Chiangmai Curry Noodles from the noodle station are not diet friendly. Springy rice noodles in a decadent gravy that was not only sugary but extremely rich from a rather heavy handed use of coconut milk. Beware of whiplash!

A second trip to the noodle station yielded a bowl of Fish Vermicelli that revived my palate with its delightfully sour stock and a touch of magic in the form of Thai fish sauce. Light, flavourful and satisfying; this would be the kind of Thai fare I appreciate!

Adjacent to the noodles was the Chinese roast station which did not disappoint. The Roast Pork had an excellent crisp skin and the Roast Duck had good, gamey flavour accentuated classically with Hoisin sauce.

Conversely, Indian tandoori meats were a disappointment; the Fish Tikka was bone-dry, tough and fishy-smelling while the Chicken Tikka was marginally moister. The Roti Prata was also sacrilegiously stale, cold and chewy. Skip the pickles too if you have a nose as sensitive as mine for while it was rich with the flavour of dried prawns, it takes a little more than that to mitigate the overpowering odour of stale, sweaty socks in my book.

Another must-have at any buffet would be a token range of sushi and salmon sashimi. While not bad, the sushi was unremarkable and largely untouched with guests understandably reserving their appetites for the more enticing offerings and dessert.

Finally, I arrived at the desserts which were disappointingly more Nonya-themed than Thai. The Pumpkin Custard was exotically presented and pleasantly rich if a little on the bland side. It was outclassed by the Banana with Coconut Milk which – though simple – struck a good balance of sourness, sweetness and richness.

The Blueberry Mousse had a harmonious taste combination of tartness, sweetness and creaminess but the textures of too-liquid mousse and hard sponge did not accord a good mouthfeel. The Caramel Custard Layer Cake was simpler in comparison and very good if one overlooked its almost overpowering sweetness.

The Rainbow Kueh was gorgeous with the trademark slightly sticky texture and starchy-caramel smell; it brought back memories of my childhood as I ate it layer by layer.

The Steamed Tapioca with Coconut Milk was not too sweet and was perfectly suited to my preference as one added one’s own coconut milk. The loose Mango Pudding was the typical Chinese restaurant incarnation which was merely missing a side of evaporated milk. The Durian Pengat was a potent one with both a flavour and smell that knocked me off my feet.

The Pistachio Financier was a lovely, buttery and dense pound cake that had a good, strong pistachio flavour. Finally, the nonya cakes were finished off with the Banana Cream-Jelly Confection I’ll never quite appreciate due to its odd texture.

The dessert station was completed with a wide array of “jello shots” in all shapes and sizes. The Mango Pudding paled in comparison to its loose counterpart with a chemical aster aftertaste and little real flavour. The Herbal Jelly was a little too authentic for comfort, I found the bitterness to be initially interesting but it became unpleasant once the novelty wore off. The Tiramisu was delightfully creamy if a little soggy at the base while the Custard Cream was pleasantly rich and eggy. Finally, the Coconut Sago had a most disconcerting chemical flavour; I didn’t eat much of the creepy stuff.

Pictureless: Private Affairs, B³, DeSté

Fans of my amateur photography will be disappointed this week. The bus I was on ran over a fatefully-placed pothole, leading to an untimely finger slip which caused a reformat and loss of the photographs documenting not one, not two but all three places I visited this past weekend. If I might add, the photographs were particularly good to boot! I offer my sincerest apologies and will try to be as descriptive as possible. I took the liberty of grouping these three entries for Private Affairs, Burger, Bench & Bar and DeSté together below.

Private Affairs – 45 Joo Chiat Place

I gave my close foodie friend Krystle a birthday brunch treat here on Sunday. It is a real tragedy that the pictures went up in smoke for the plating and presentation at this establishment is truly exceptional with a good combination of attention to detail and artistic flourish. The extensive brunch menu was intriguing but made repeated use of the same elements (e.g. papaya seed dressing, Avruga caviar) which were good but detracted from the wow factor it built up. The total damage came up to $177.14 with the additional indulgences of sparkling water and coffee.

I must add that although they offer you coffee at the end of the meal, it is not included and that six dollars could get you a better cuppa elsewhere. I’ll give them the benefit of the doubt and chalk it up to a miscommunication rather than opportunism.

The Hazelnut Bread amuse bouche was a cross between a croissant, a brioche and a Chinese mantou. There was no discernible hazelnuttiness and it would have been great with French butter (yes, you can’t have too much of that stuff).

We started off with the oyster bar and its intimidating selection of five different toppings. The shellfish were plump, creamy and fresh; my lemon wedge placed so artistically in the composed shot (close your eyes and visualise that for a moment please) was untouched thereafter. The dressings were – without exception – creative, unusual and a pleasure to taste, though some seemed quite similar. Miso Powder & Yuzu Jelly accorded an interesting Oriental feel and was surprisingly more sweet than salty. The Namjin Dressing had a delicate sweetness to it along with a pleasant fragrance while the Rice Vinegar and Coriander Marinade was a refreshing alternative to the usual shallot vinaigrette. Both the Papaya Seed Dressing and Carrot Puree – while good - were a little too sweet in my opinion and the latter’s carrot flavour almost overpowered the shellfish.

The brunch heavyweight Eggs Benedict was served with crispy but stringy bacon and sausages that had a little too much starchy filler. The eggs were excellent and were covered with cheese as opposed to the traditional hollandaise. The Cured Salmon with Pickled Leek, Avruga and Yuzu Vinaigrette was assembled gorgeously with vibrant hues of pink and green contrasting sharply with the jet-black caviar. We suspected honey might have been used in the curing solution as a lovely sweetness and the distinct floral-caramel accent of honey was discernible in the rich fish.

The Green Pea Parfait with Mango and Tomato Salsa, Horseradish and Basil Cream was very, very rich. A stronger horseradish presence would have undercut the cloying creaminess effectively. The mango and tomato salsa was in a little mound by itself, a palate cleanser that was effective but an obvious afterthought.

The Yoghurt Parfait with Berry Espuma was beautiful to look at: brilliantly vivid pink-red foam atop creamy, pale yoghurt. This was admittedly my first brush with espuma so excuse me for preferring weightier, tangible, substantial coulis instead. It was Krystle’s favourite though.

The Strawberry & Raisin Muesli was bursting with fruit for a very light and refreshing breakfast classic that had a little too much honey.

Scones with Basil Crème Fraiche & Jam were good albeit unexciting. I appreciated that the pastries were moist and not too buttery, crumbly or flaky; I was able to savour them neatly. Alongside them were Banana & Chocolate Chip Muffins which were adorable little bite-sized morsels that adopted a classic flavour combination perfectly; a touch of the basil crème fraiche from the scones added a pleasant twist.

We were served Potato and Leek Moussline as compliments from the chef. This was presented in a most interesting manner with the mousseline piped into a crisp cone perched in a shot-glass of black uncooked rice; quite dramatic. Its most distinctive characteristic was its pungency along with an interesting blend of crisp and smooth textures.

The Duck Carpaccio with Granny Smith and Mustard Dressing was amazing! The lovely gaminess of duck is so much more tangible when it is raw; coupled with richness from a thin streak of fat, it was nothing short of phenomenal. My only conceivable complaint would be that the portion – though beautifully layered and wrapped round a fork – was tiny!

I am always a sucker for Indian food attempted by non-Indian restaurants; my curiosity gets the better of me as to whether they kept to the standard recipe or bastardized it in some way. In this case, the Naan Pancakes with spicy Eggplant, Cucumber in Green Pumpkin Seed Oil & Sherry-Oyster Vinaigrette was obviously a heavily modified creature, in a good way. The soft, yielding, spongy pancakes were very unlike the typically compact and chewy flatbread but shared the common trait of being an excellent vessel for flavour. I must say that the chutney was good though perhaps it’s my Bengali genes talking when I say I would’ve preferred the pumpkin seed oil replaced with mustard seed oil for a more flavourful result.

Prawn Bisque is a far lighter and less overpowering cousin of lobster bisque. This rendition was pleasantly smoky with strong flavours emerging from a well-made stock base. On the other hand, the Seared Hokkaido Scallops with Scrambled Cauliflower, Avruga and Yellow Curry Emulsion was not as impressive. The scallops were overcooked and more than a little tough. The balanced and flavourful cauliflower curry redeemed it somewhat though.

The Alaskan King Crab Cake with Mango, Cilantro Salsa, Peanut and Laksa Leaf Vinaigrette was perhaps the most peculiar dish of the meal. It had too much mixed vegetables and too little crab meat to fit into the classic crab cake profile; it was closer to a croquette IMHO. Now, throw in peanut sauce plus more vegetables by the side and it achieves an effect remarkably similar to the Indonesian dish gado gado. Is that odd or what?

The Kurobuta Pork Ribs with Confit Onion and Arugula tossed in Papaya Seed Dressing suffered from a rather heavy handed use of Worcester sauce that masked everything else, porky flavour included. The cooking process also robbed the black pork of most of its signature marbling, leaving behind a tragically tough, hard and stringy piece of meat. This is an illustration of how a promising idea and premium ingredients can trip up.

I have a theory going that foie gras goes with everything, I’ve served it as a savoury starter on crostinis, as an accompaniment to healthy mains like Ratatouille and even as a semi-dessert alongside wine poached pears. Another winning combination was revealed in the Pan Fried Foie Gras with Rosemary Brioche and Cherry & Beetroot Reduction. The creaminess of the liver and the tart sweetness of the reduction performed pirouettes across my tongue like a pair of Olympic figure skaters. I’ll have to replicate this sometime.

After giving the appetisers their due attention, we finally moved on to the mains. I had the Roasted Rabbit with Green Curry Spatzle and Crushed Potato in Riesling Cream Sauce which was presented like one of those pretentious but undeniably gorgeous modern art showcases. This was my first textural encounter with rabbit (it was shredded in a risotto in my previous experience) and I cannot help but say – as cruel as it might sound to some – that rabbit tastes exactly like the animal looks: soft and fluffy. Another thing the meat shares with the pointy-eared, snow-white archetype is guiltlessness; for it was completely lean despite its pillow-softness. The Riesling cream sauce was lovely, a real pity that there was precious little of it.

The Duck Leg Confit with Potato Moussline, Pickled Carrot and Raisin Salad, Carrot Foam and Apple Vinaigrette that my friend had was far less enchanting than mine. The meat was tough, dry and stringy, most of its juice and moisture had been sapped in the cooking process to leave behind a skeleton of a drumstick. The highlight of the dish was the pumpkin chunk garnish which was divinely rich, sweet and creamy.

Our desserts arrived in an elegant 3-tiered contraption that typifies the quaint, old-world quality of tea parties and brunch; I loved the effect although it made photo-taking hellish (not that it matters now). The Passionfruit Cheesecake with Pistachio Crumbs was a little too firm and could have done with a little more passionfruit flavour. The Chocolate Brownie with Vanilla Ice Cream was a good take on the old classic though I would have preferred a spanner thrown in the works like what was done in the case of Bread and Butter Pudding with Black Sesame Ice Cream. This bold blending of East and West really works for the Black Sesame adds a much needed dose of pizzazz that the usual vanilla accompaniment cannot provide to the typically mildly flavoured pudding.

The final offering was Lemon Curd Hazelnut Cannelloni which bore a strong resemblance to traditional cream horns. That said, they were extremely good and just the thing to close the rich meal. I have always loved the seemingly impossible combination of richness and acidity achieved in lemon curd. The cannelloni – as with the amuse bouche – had nary a trace of hazelnut but was good all the same with a brandy-snap quality.

Burger, Bench & Bar - 8 Grange Road #01-02 Cathay Cineleisure Orchard

As promised before, I returned to this lovely little hole-in-the-wall at Cathay Cineleisure for a snack on Saturday. I had the Sarawak Black Pepper Beef Burger ($7.90) this time around and it did not disappoint. The Sarawak pepper sauce was more sweet than spicy and added a good, unique touch to the burger. This is a lot more than can be said for run-of-the-mill pepper sauces which tend to be taste bud-numbingly peppery even by my standards. Unlike my take-out experience not too long ago, the patty was a lovely medium-rare that positively oozed with juice this time around. That is probably the reason my previous burger was a drier well-done for the lack of a barrier between the patty and bun in the burger architecture would have resulted in a soggy bun by the time I got round to eating it.

For an added dollar to our burgers, my friend (he had the sautéed mushroom burger I reviewed last time around) and I tried the famous Hand-Cooked Crisps which proved to be a little underwhelming. The portion was small and cold but I did savour the crunchier texture that hand-cooking accord to crisps in general. I prefer Kettle Chips to Ruffles, Pringles and Lays for that reason alone.

Still not completely satisfied, we split a Grilled Chicken Burger with Relish and Jalapeno ($8.50); this was a bad call. While the jalapenos and relish made for a good dose of flavour, sweetness and spice, the meat was so dry that we resorted to washing it down with ice lemon tea. Stick with the beef at this joint.

The final to-eat on my list at Burger, Bench and Bar was the Dark Chocolate Soft-serve ($3). It sounded really enticing on paper but was actually decidedly average, largely indistinguishable from regular chocolate soft-serve. A touch more bitterness would have set it apart in the opinion of this dark chocolate nut.

DeSté - 313 Orchard Road #01-25, 313 @ Somerset

I had to eat my words after persuading a bunch of friends to try it out by selling it as “an institution since it has 120 years of history”. I will not even dignify this with a lengthy post and analysis aside from how it is a shock that a patisserie helmed by the “fifth generation of one of Italy’s most accoladed family of pastry chefs” could be so disappointing. Prices are steep and service is awful, the waiter was either fatally blur (I don’t know how he’d cross the street) or flatly ignoring us for I had to walk to the counter to place my order and practically dislocated my arm before he gave us the bill.

The Soffiato ($8.90), a chocolate fondant, was way too sweet without even a passable amount of chocolateyness. Furthermore, the crater in the centre took half the fun out of eating a lava cake: poking into a seemingly solid cake and having the glorious goo suddenly and somehow always surprisingly ooze out. The chocolate chip ice cream was an awful combination of flavourlessness (not even an attempt at chemical vanilla here) and an insane amount of sugar.

The Truffle Cheesecake ($8.40) was dry, tasteless and unsatisfying; I’ll leave it at that. The only consolation – and a marginal one at that – was the Limoncino ($7.80) which was a cake-take on lemon meringue pie. There was an adequate lemon tanginess which perhaps masked the recurring theme of sugar over-use. That said, the whites had been whipped to soft peaks instead of hard, yielding a meringue that was too spongy and formless for my liking.

Almond Couscous Muffins

Almond Couscous Muffins - Recipe

Similar in spirit to their corn counterparts, Almond Couscous Muffins have a touch more mealiness and nutty undercurrents from the almond flour used in this recipe. A little rich from the generous amount of butter and egg yolks, they are perfect with preserves for breakfast or with Dulce de Leche for a satisfying snack. Lemon and poppy seeds may be an addition worth looking into.

Ingredients for approximately 2 dozen smallish muffins

300g Butter

300g Couscous

150g Egg Yolks

250g Sugar

110g Egg White

75g Flour

1 generous pinch Baking Powder

100ml Milk

200g Almond Meal

1. Cream butter and couscous in an electric mixer for 10 minutes until fluffy and place in refrigerator overnight.
2. Beat yolks and sugar till pale yellow and in ribbons.
3. Fold yolk mixture into thawed couscous.
4. Beat egg whites till stiff peaks form and fold it into the couscous as well, retaining as much air as possible.
5. Sift in flour plus baking powder and add almonds alternately in two half-batches; thinning with the milk in between. This helps ensure a homogenous mixture with less mixing.
6. Fill greased muffin tins till ¾ full with the mixture and bake for approximately 20 minutes at 170 degrees Celsius until an inserted toothpick comes out clean.

Making a batch of these beauties totally redeemed an awful day ruined by my mean little commander. Cooking – like chocolates and kisses – just makes everything better.

2am: dessertbar

2am: dessertbar – 21A Lorong Liput, Holland Village

I make a pilgrimage to this chic establishment once a month for I just can’t get enough of it! I mean what could possibly be better than dessert and booze right? The service here is truly top notch with detailed explanations of the gorgeous deserts from genius pâtissier duo Astoria and Derrick, personal wine recommendations from gregarious, charismatic manager Robert while Krystle – a recent addition to the wait staff – is my close friend of seven years and remains the sweetest and most dynamic girl I know. The fact that I get the yummy odds-and-ends left over from sculpting the latest gorgeous thing out of the kitchen because I’ve befriended the crew cements this place as my regular haunt for as long as I’m in town (ten months give-or-take).

In my latest visit, I started off with Nivasco Piemonte Brachetto 2008. The perfect aperitif, it intensified my already gnawing appetite tenfold. A bouquet of berries almost physically hits you in the nose while an alcopop sweet-sour accessibility delights the taste buds. Light, fizzy and fruity; playful would be the operative adjective to describe this elixir.

The Toffee Pudding ($14) came highly recommended by Krystle and thus naturally knocked me off my feet. The dense pudding was a delicious vessel for the surrounding flavours, essentially rendering it six desserts in one. While absolutely lovely by itself, a touch of warm toffee sauce left me with my eyes close in bliss. A smidgeon of jasmine rice ice-cream morphed it into a glorious harmony of hot and cold, solid and liquid amidst an intoxicating olfactory cocktail of floral perfume and spice. A smuckle of the boldest whisky jelly ever (you could probably get drunk on the stuff) turned it into a boozie’s wet dream, and was hence my favourite accompaniment of the lot. A comforting vanilla custard sauce was the classic foil to the seductively spiced cake while an almost savoury butterscotch sauce cast a whole new light on my rapidly diminishing pudding. A final dab of cassis coulis cut through all that glorious richness for a perfect finish that left me positively aching for more.

I’ll take a moment to eulogize the jasmine rice ice cream as it was an intriguing delight that left me furrowing my brow trying to pin down the flavours sending waves of pleasure through my entire nervous system. It was simultaneously creamy yet light with a subtle exotic scent of jasmine and a comforting aroma of freshly steamed rice.

I selected Caramello Crisps, 70% Truffle Chocolate Mousse with Truffle Salt and Lavender Gel paired with Pu-Erh Tea blend with Apple, Cherimoya and Caramel ($17.60) from a limited-edition menu featuring Gryphon tea pairings. It was beautifully presented in a martini glass so much so that I was hesitant to dig into it and thereby destroy its painstaking construction. It was composed of chocolate mousse, Sasafra (a relative of Sasparilla) chamomile ice cream, Lavender gel, Caramello and garnished with caramel paper as well as a dusting of truffle salt. The ice cream was very fragrant and floral which – together with the creaminess – was nothing short of amazing.

Truffle salt with chocolate mousse is something that really blows the senses to smithereens. I would have to say that it isn’t a very accessible taste combination as I am still unsure whether I like it or hate it. The two fabulous and strong flavours appear to be in pitched battle with the Truffle salt gaining an olfactory advantage (smell is 60% of taste) while the chocolate holds its own in the aspects of richness and bitterness. I guess it depends on the individual as to whether they clash or complement but the tea mellows everything for a good finish with a luxuriously strong caramel aroma and apple undercurrents.

TGI Friday's

TGI Friday’s – 260 Orchard Road #03-K5 The Heeren

After an almost decade-long hiatus, TGI Friday’s is making a comeback just across the street from their former premises at the glass house. I was anxious to try out this restaurant chain which holds so many fond memories from my childhood and was a little disappointed to find a creature somewhat different from what I remembered back in the 90s. Bring your appetite for typical American tex-mex fare of burgers, ribs and appetisers that are stuffed, coated or topped with cheese. While the food was decent, there was a mudpie-shaped emptiness in my heart left unfilled as they did not bring their signature dessert back. Don't forget your Benjamins along with your cholesterol pills for the damage came up to $134.65 for a table of 3.

We got the ball rolling with a small order of Loaded Potato Skins (10.90 for 4) which were average and a good size to whet the appetite. I liked that it was not too salty unlike most things with bacon and cheese. The ‘taters’ relied on the sour cream for richness as the cheese was light. A little on the bland side, a dusting of cayenne pepper would have done a lot of good but chilli sauce sufficed in this pinch.

The Jack Daniel’s Glazed Ribs (24.90 for a half rack) was surprisingly lean but a little dry as a result. The famed marinade accorded a smoky sweetness reminiscent of Chinese barbecued pork in this setting; critics could say this was just fancy char siew. The caramelised onion dip had an interesting twist in the form of molasses instead of sugar which gave it depth and character. This made up for the fries which were – across all the board – overseasoned in the way the potato skins were underseasoned.

The Cheesy Bacon Cheeseburger ($19.90) stole the show. The medium rare patty was juicy and moist accompanied by a good balance of creaminess from the fried mozzarella, sweetness from the red onions and tanginess from the piquant pickles. I would have preferred it if they had not buttered the sesame seed bun though.

The Jack Daniel’s Burger ($18.90) was far less fantastic that the cheeseburger. Done medium, it turned out on the far side of dry and the marinade did not perform as well on the beef patty as it did on the pork ribs earlier.

The Grilled Salmon ($25.90) was the biggest disappointment. The fish was dry, bland and overcooked; priced a step above the burgers, it could be considered a rip-off. In general, if you’re eating at an American-themed place, I would advise you to stick to the terrestrial offerings.

In the absence of a mudpie, I opted for the Brownie Obsession ($13.90) which epitomised the adage “if you’re gonna do something wrong, do it right”. The devilishly sweet, rich and moist cake was topped with vanilla ice cream that was gloriously creamy and not sweet in comparison (the cake made up the sugar quota really). This sizable mass was finished with a dusting of crunchy Oreo crumbs and toasted nuts as a tasteful textural flourish. I would have preferred it if the gooey caramel sauce were replaced with chocolate fudge which was tragically missing from an otherwise fantastic dessert.

Canelé Pâtisserie Chocolaterie

Canelé Pâtisserie Chocolaterie – 1 Scotts Road #01-01A Shaw Centre

Boyfriends beware! Stalking a corner of Shaw Centre is this rather pricey dessert place. With its chic interior as well as irresistible line-up of seductive cakes and row upon row of multicoloured macarons, even I was powerless to fight the attraction as it reeled me in. Despite exercising masculine restraint, a $32.80 burn for a light snack was in store for my buddy and me. Meanwhile, the male half of the couple next to us could only look on with despair as his paramour ordered with wild abandon.

The first of the two signature cakes we sampled was the Strawberry Shortcake ($6.50). Soft, delicate sponge sandwiched generous layers of cream studded here and there with strawberry sections. More of the tart berries – this time with a sweet gel glaze – crowned this apotheosis of feminine cakes, cutting through the richness in a sharp but pleasant fashion.

Next in line was the Le Royale ($7), an elegant creation of very sweet chocolate that was a good combination of feather-soft mousse and crispy biscuit base. I would have much preferred a darker, more robust chocolate but something tells me that sort of rawness would be lost on the dainty female clientele this place targets.

The Macarons ($14.80 for 6) were the real wallet-decimator here but were the real draw in the first place. Don’t get me wrong, the confections were good! Not too sweet and of a pleasantly chewy texture, the gaily-coloured biscuits with perfect “feet” sandwiched rich and vibrantly flavoured buttercreams.

Forest Noire (cue French phrasebooks) was a special edition with the trademark trio of bitter chocolate, tart cherries and rich cream; what’s not to love? Subtle Hazelnut was not very sweet with the almond base more evident than hazelnuts. Exotique was another special edition with an intriguingly authentic unripe banana flavour, complete with tartness and distinct sappy aftertaste.

The intoxicating, heady perfume of Violet was enhanced by a rich but neutral buttercream filling. I had to go for the 70% Dark Chocolate but was disappointed with a chocolate flavour far more subtle than the earlier black forest. Pomme a la Pomme (Enough French already, s’il vous plait!) rounded out our selection with a lovely distinct chestnut flavour but the apples it so proclaimed were nowhere to be found.

Brunch and Burger

Relish – 501 Bukit Timah Road #02-01 Cluny Court

After staring longingly at its sign from a passing bus on numerous occasions, I finally ventured into Relish at Cluny Court. It was a sunny Saturday and light was pouring into the airy space, the perfect backdrop for a luxuriant, leisurely brunch. Service at Relish is attentive though unhurried – keeping with the laidback theme – and prices are reasonable ($71 for a party of 3) for honest, quality comfort food. This is an eatery I see myself visiting on many a lazy weekend in future.

Served on toasted English muffins, coated with a thick layer of rich-without-being –cloying Hollandaise and crowned with crispy rashers of bacon that had just the right amount of fat; my Eggs Wild Benedict ($17) was dressed to kill. Poached to semi-firmness on the outside whilst remaining gloriously gooey on the inside, the eggs were delicate without being too fragile. The side of crisp-on-the-outside, mealy-on-the-inside potato cubes were perfect to soak up any remaining hollandaise or yolk. This dish was well thought out, masterfully executed and beautifully assembled.

The eponymous Wild Rocket Beef Burger ($17) brought over from Relish’s sister restaurant lived up to my high expectations. Sweet, smoky sundried tomato relish sat on a rich, moist medium-rare patty lying on a bed of crisp Arugula drizzled with tangy Sarawak pepper cream; this seemingly complex burger architecture became simple, primal bliss upon first bite. The side of fries was terribly addictive too!

Through sheer genius, Relish managed to get the blue cheese sauce soaked into the patty of their Blue Cheese and William Pear Beef Burger ($19). This more than delighted my friend’s taste buds though the walnut peanut butter mentioned in the menu’s description was apparently imperceptible.

The Bacon and Cheese Beef Burger ($18) had a most unusually moist patty, in a good way. The bacon and Emmental cheese took their rightful place as subtle background elements, neither overwhelming with saltiness nor stealing the textural spotlight from the beef which a layer of thick, sweet relish enhanced.

RBurger – 2 Orchard Turn #B4-56/57 ION Orchard

The Rburger (3.80) can only be described as blasphemy. The tiny, gummy steamed bun stuck frustratingly to the roof of my mouth with each bite. The stingily thin patty was poorly constructed, disintegrating whilst still in the bun after a few bites. The attempt at umami sauce was flat, lacking any character whatsoever. Finally, shiso leaves – usually seen alongside sashimi – could not have been more out of place in this tragic parody of a food that is a way of life unto itself.

This chain is marketing itself on an oxymoron: burgers as health food. I’ll have a burger when my conscience makes allowance for a sinful, greasy transgression of preferably epic proportions. Buns enriched with marine collagen? If I wanted good skin, I’d go for a facial instead.