Brunch and Burger

Relish – 501 Bukit Timah Road #02-01 Cluny Court

After staring longingly at its sign from a passing bus on numerous occasions, I finally ventured into Relish at Cluny Court. It was a sunny Saturday and light was pouring into the airy space, the perfect backdrop for a luxuriant, leisurely brunch. Service at Relish is attentive though unhurried – keeping with the laidback theme – and prices are reasonable ($71 for a party of 3) for honest, quality comfort food. This is an eatery I see myself visiting on many a lazy weekend in future.

Served on toasted English muffins, coated with a thick layer of rich-without-being –cloying Hollandaise and crowned with crispy rashers of bacon that had just the right amount of fat; my Eggs Wild Benedict ($17) was dressed to kill. Poached to semi-firmness on the outside whilst remaining gloriously gooey on the inside, the eggs were delicate without being too fragile. The side of crisp-on-the-outside, mealy-on-the-inside potato cubes were perfect to soak up any remaining hollandaise or yolk. This dish was well thought out, masterfully executed and beautifully assembled.

The eponymous Wild Rocket Beef Burger ($17) brought over from Relish’s sister restaurant lived up to my high expectations. Sweet, smoky sundried tomato relish sat on a rich, moist medium-rare patty lying on a bed of crisp Arugula drizzled with tangy Sarawak pepper cream; this seemingly complex burger architecture became simple, primal bliss upon first bite. The side of fries was terribly addictive too!

Through sheer genius, Relish managed to get the blue cheese sauce soaked into the patty of their Blue Cheese and William Pear Beef Burger ($19). This more than delighted my friend’s taste buds though the walnut peanut butter mentioned in the menu’s description was apparently imperceptible.

The Bacon and Cheese Beef Burger ($18) had a most unusually moist patty, in a good way. The bacon and Emmental cheese took their rightful place as subtle background elements, neither overwhelming with saltiness nor stealing the textural spotlight from the beef which a layer of thick, sweet relish enhanced.

RBurger – 2 Orchard Turn #B4-56/57 ION Orchard

The Rburger (3.80) can only be described as blasphemy. The tiny, gummy steamed bun stuck frustratingly to the roof of my mouth with each bite. The stingily thin patty was poorly constructed, disintegrating whilst still in the bun after a few bites. The attempt at umami sauce was flat, lacking any character whatsoever. Finally, shiso leaves – usually seen alongside sashimi – could not have been more out of place in this tragic parody of a food that is a way of life unto itself.

This chain is marketing itself on an oxymoron: burgers as health food. I’ll have a burger when my conscience makes allowance for a sinful, greasy transgression of preferably epic proportions. Buns enriched with marine collagen? If I wanted good skin, I’d go for a facial instead.