Magma German Wine Bistro –
Once a stone’s throw from Singapore’s Chinese Red Light District, the beautifully restored rows of shop-houses lining Bukit Pasoh are now home to upmarket eateries attracting a well-heeled and far less shady crowd. Magma German Wine Bistro is a casual establishment with a dauntingly authentic German menu (I dare you to pronounce their list of entrées) and a very zealous sommelier only too happy to help pair your choice with something from an even more intimidatingly extensive wine list. A semi-open concept kitchen provided entertainment in the way of massive flambés that bathed the intimate dining area in sporadic flashes of warm light. While aesthetically pleasing, it did exacerbate the latent heat of the restaurant poorly ventilated by a lone air-conditioning unit. Despite the cool night, I was already perspiring profusely well before I placed my order. Dinner came up to $314 for a party of 5.
The Spätburgunder or German Pinot Noir we were recommended had little in the way of nose but was pleasantly sweetish and virtually tannin-free, rendering it very drinkable. Still, smell constitutes 60% of taste and I prefer wines with a nice bouquet.
A Flammkuchen is the German take on pizza; the brainchild of 19th century farmers, this flatbread is baked in an oven in direct contact with embers. We opted for Chicken Breast, Tomato, Onion Apple and Cheese ($29) which had a surprisingly harmonious flavour profile with the savoury, caramelized apples complementing the tender chunks of chicken. The sour cream base added a light creaminess reminiscent of mozzarella but lacking its adhesive properties, this deliciously messy pie is not date food.
The Berlin-style Boiled Pork Knuckle with Boiled Potato and Sauerkraut ($26) was surprisingly flavourful despite its unappetising name. The skin took on a marvellous gelatinous texture while adopting a creamy richness from the generous underlying layer of fat. How its porky flavour was not leeched but enhanced by the boiling process mystifies me. The sauerkraut was refreshing and eliminated jadedness of palate whilst working through the massive German portion.
The Bavarian-style Roasted Pork Knuckle with Mashed Potato and Sauerkraut ($26) had a deliciously crisp skin that was nothing short of amazing with mustard. The meat – however – was rather bland.
Spring chickens are apparently in season in Germany this time of year and the chef displayed some measure of artistic flair in the Pan-fried Seasonal Spring Chicken Stuffed with Spinach on a Vegetable Nest and Purple Mashed Potato ($28). The purple mash was far more than mere aesthetics with the delicate sweetness of the unusual tubers leaving one wondering if they were indeed potatoes. The juicy chicken was further moistened by the creamy sauce and was easily the most manageable (read: Asian-sized) portion of the meal.
The Lamb Shank on Fine beans and Fried Potatoes in Garlic-Rosemary Sauce ($34) was tender and moist, with not much sauce to speak of. However, the braising liquid had thoroughly permeated the generous hunk of meat, rendering it positively brimming with fragrant, herby goodness.
The house special of Kaiserschmarr’n with Plum Compote ($18) comprised dense, buttery and subtly salty ‘pancakes’ served with a syrupy and delicately tart plum compote.
The German signature of Apple Strudel with Vanilla Sauce ($10) had a thicker, heavier pastry than the flaky, airy, crisp sheets I favour. On the whole, both desserts left me rather underwhelmed.
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