Scratchley's

Scratchley’s – 200 Wharf Road, Newcastle, New South Wales

Newcastle is a mere two hours drive away from Sydney and offers a great escape with some beautiful beaches and sensational seafood. One place that a visit to Newcastle is not complete without a meal at is Scratchley’s. A veritable institution located right on the water, it offers a stunning view of the harbour, if you can spare a moment to look up from your plate that is.

The seafood was spectacular even though my visit during the Christmas – New Year period meant that I didn’t get a chance to try out the famed “Specials”, an ever-changing menu available during off-peak periods which is constructed according to the seasonal fish hauled in. A lunch for five amounted to $285, complete with drinks all round.

I started out with Scratchley’s Famous Char-grilled Antipasto ($19); this appetiser portion is conveniently half the size and price of having it as a main. Every single marine critter was done complete justice despite the immense variety on my plate; each one was grilled its individual point of perfection balancing flavourful char and springy softness or delicate flakiness where appropriate. The squid was likely the best I’ve ever had with a yielding chew and a remarkable sweetness I had never tasted in squid before. However, it was ultimately the plump, juicy baby octopus accentuated by a robust, coarse basil-almond pesto that stole the show completely and which continues to defy adequate description.

Another starter popular at our table was the Scratchley’s Seafood Chowder ($15) with a masterfully executed classical Velouté base of light stock thickened with blond roux. Smooth and adequately yet not overpoweringly flavoured, it set a new standard that typically lumpy, over-thickened and starchy chowders fall far short of. A solid combination of vegetables like carrots, corn kernels and scallions supported the sweet shrimp, pliantly chewy octopus and tender fish, all chopped into bits that were large enough to be distinguished on the tongue yet small enough so as not to detract from the velvety smooth feel.

The Garlic King Prawns Sautéed in Garlic, Shallot, White Wine and Cream Sauce with Steamed Basmati Rice ($19) was quite breathtaking with that gorgeously glossy sauce napping the massive prawns and gradually soaking into fluffy grains.

Both the Garlic Bread ($5) and Herb & Cheese Bread ($5) were pillow-soft and extremely fluffy. A mere half-centimeter layer of flavouring agent on the surface of the bread provided all the punch and character necessary. This allowed both bread and spread to harmonise but remain distinct, thus avoiding the typical soggy saturatedness or rock-hard crispness found in most flavoured breads.

My Red Emperor Fillet Dusted in Cajun Spices on Smashed Kipfler Potatoes with Char-Grilled Balsamic Vegetables, Carrot & Ginger Raitha and Sweet Potato Curls ($38) was every bit as spectacular as that wonderfully detailed description promised. Firm and moist, it was fragrantly spiced yet subtly enough that the natural flavour of the supremely fresh fish was not overwhelmed but further accentuated by a creamy, tangy raitha sauce. The coarse mash had a mind-boggling array of flavour and texture from sweet pepper to salty zucchini and mealy potato, all perfumed with a generous amount of thyme.

I couldn’t cross-examine my fellow diners for their opinions on their own mains but I think the pictures alone will suffice as more than adequate descriptions!

Blue Eye Cod Fillet Roasted in Thai Flavours with a Corn & Coriander Crust on Saffron & Lime Basmati Pilaf and Green Curry Coconut Sauce ($35).

Snapper Fillet Roasted in Lemon, Garlic & Thyme on a Salad of Black Lentils, Preserved Lemon, Pine Nuts & Coriander with Coconut Yoghurt Dressing ($38).

Tender Calamari Golden-Fried with Real Tartare Sauce & Lemon ($32).

2011 Teaser

2011 Teaser

Happy New Year! The Fatlittleboy’s officially shifting to Sydney, Australia come February so the highlights of my past 2 weeks spent there should be a good sampling of the sort of things you can hope to expect in 2011. Enjoy!

Beachside Bites

Coogee Yeeros – 204-206 Arden St., Coogee Beach, NSW

Just check out that cake stand!

On an unseasonably blustery day smack in the middle of summer, a cup of smooth, rich Hot Chocolate is all you need to feel warmed to your fingertips and in need of a good snooze.

Mars Bar Cheesecake was the waitress’ exuberant recommendation. Yes, those are actual candy bar slivers on top.

Lemon Meringue Pie, who can resist such a massive crown of meringue. It looks a million times bigger with it in front of you and a fork in hand.

Apple Crumble, served a la mode.

Triple Chocolate Mud Cake, all warm and oozy.

Chish & Fips, will definitely visit for that name alone if nothing else.

Garlo’s Pies, this chain opens till late so you can have a pie – or six – after a day at the beach or a night out partying.

Moo, the cow demands I eat it.

The lanes along Sydney beaches like Coogee and Bondi are just filled with rows upon rows of cafés and restaurants; it would probably take years to try them all.

Cafés, Pubs & Bar Bites

Lotus – 50 Glebe Road, The Junction, NSW

Brownie with Pistachio Ice Cream and most of the desserts I encountered throughout my trip came as truly huge portions, something I can definitely get used to. The wonderful dark chocolate fudge sauce had a touch of salt to make it pop while the brownie was robust, dense and moist. A teeny disappointment came only in the pistachio ice cream as its flavour was very subdued and it just seemed creamy above all else. Still, it was a more than adequate foil for the beautiful brownie.

The Pumphouse – 17 Pier Street, Darling Harbour, NSW

The Pumphouse Burger ($24) served with onion rings and aioli is a mammoth burger constructed of a solid 220g patty, gruyere, pancetta, confit onions and beetroot chutney. It would have been terrific if it were not underseasoned. Kumara fries were also sadly unavailable that day but the regular thick-cut ones were good too.

Pumphouse Thunderbolt Strong Ale ($7.50) is a must try as you can’t get it anywhere else. Sweet and fruity, it is mellow and of medium strength.

Asian Food, Aussie Style

Emerald Gardens – Wests New Lambton, 88 Hobart Road, New Lambton, NSW

Mongolian Lamb, it’s so tender and possesses ovinity rendered imperceptible by a gorgeous marinade that it tastes closer to beef.

Ginger Beef, served sizzling on a hot plate rather than simply stir fried with greens.

Special Fried Rice, as close as one can get to my favourite yang chow “flied lice” down under. Yum!

Mucho’s

Mucho’s – Shop 9/50 Glebe Road, The Junction, Eastpoint, Newcastle

I think I’ve made it pretty clear how much I adore Mexican cuisine on several occasions now, and the fact that Mexican food is so hard to find back in Singapore just makes a good Mexican meal that much more special to me. As such, I was elated to discover my sister’s new in-laws counted this eatery as their firm favourite; despite the innumerable pie shops and gorgeous seafood available in their native Newcastle. I certainly know why after having dinner there, the selection is a mind-boggling and everything is nothing short of fantastic.

We started off with a Combination Dip ($20.90) of chili con queso that was thick with a rich kidney bean mash, frijole that achieved a delicious balance of richness and tanginess as well as an incredibly smooth and rich guacamole. The avocados here are truly as plentiful as they are beautiful, making perfect guacamole possible. Each dip came in its own cup-shaped nacho which went to whoever reacted first once the nachos were polished off.

All is not lost if one cannot decide between each of the individual mains like I was. Combinations are available which merge smaller portions of different dishes for greater variety. Feeling carnivorous as usual, I opted for Combination 60 ($20.90) which let me try not only the beef tostada and beef taco but a beef and cheese enchilada as well, all on a bed of fluffy rice. The enchilada should be polished off immediately before it turns soggy and with its sheath of cheese still semi-molten, pulling apart in gooey strands to reveal a moist interior of artfully spiced shredded beef – no mince here - in a fog of beef juice steam. The crunchy beef taco was overflowing with more of that wonderfully spiced shredded beef, flamboyant yet not overpowering the intrinsic flavour of the meat it locked in a delicious dance on your palate. The tostada was the most subdued of the lot in terms of flavour, wowing instead with the variety of textures from crunchy corn-chip shell to crisp lettuce, grainy shredded cheese and yielding strands of beef.

Another to look out for is the Combination 62 ($20.50) for it includes the beef chimichanga in addition to a chili con carne and rice. Easily the star of the menu, the chimichangas have so much flavour in such a crisp little parcel; it’s like having a bomb going off in your mouth with each bite. The fried tortilla was light and crunchy, the complete opposite of the weighty, hearty beef and cheese filling.

I could not resist a Classic Margarita ($9.90) to wash all that deliciousness down. Generously tart and refreshing, it had wonderfully smooth and fine ice crystals that melted so readily in my mouth I never detected the brainfreeze till it hit me. I appreciated that it was not sweet at all for I can rarely make it through the sugar-syrup laden concoctions commonly found in pubs and bars.

The Watermelon Margarita ($9.90) was not quite as wonderful though. Lacking the citrus pizzaz, it came across as somewhat flat-tasting after the spunky lime. Much, much sweeter besides; I came to the conclusion that this subtly-flavoured fruit is still best eaten in its naturally occurring form.

Salt

Salt – 2/5 Nash Street, Rosalie Village, Paddington, Brisbane

Whenever my sister comes home from the holidays, she never fails to wax lyrical about this place. Since my parents went down to visit her, they’ve been raving about it too. Now that I’m finally in Brisbane, I had to make a point to pay Salt a visit. Breakfast is apparently the best meal to sign yourself up for – I certainly have no complaints – so rouse yourself and make your way down before noon. My table of 4 racked up a bill of $92.10.

I started off with a Skinny Hot Chocolate ($4.50) which left me wide-eyed when it arrived as a three-piece set; a shot of thick molten chocolate, creamy white chocolate buttons and a massive bowl of steamed milk that required two hands to wrap around as it had no handle. As you might guess, one mixes it according to one’s preference so I went for just a neat shot of dark chocolate in the milk, choosing to nibble on the buttons. While it might have been empirically good, the involvement it called for elevated my bowl of chocolate to a near-magical experience.

Continuing the theme of playing with preconceptions, the unassuming-sounding Iced Coffee ($4) turned out to be an affogato with generous blobs of creamy vanilla ice cream giving the rich, smooth coffee a flavourful kick.

Truffled Mushrooms with Scrambled Eggs ($17.90) were the perfect morning indulgence. Meaty sautéed shitake mushrooms crowned a crusty slice of fluffy white bread impregnated with the earthy perfume of truffle paste and rich, fruity note of olive oil. Instead of simply using their namesake, Salt craftily relied on the brininess from several rashers of beautiful bacon to make up the saline quotient. Very effective and very flavourful.

The Duo of Sausage ($21.90) comprised a pork & fennel banger paired with a spicier Moroccan lamb sausage and a side of white bean mash. The sausages were both wonderful with a delicate spice accentuating the respective porcine and ovine traits of the meat. I found the lamb sausage particularly commendable in that respect for the spices did not overpower the meat as in the case of most lamb forcemeats. The white bean mash was hearty and rustic, a wonderfully comforting foil to the rich sausages.

If I had one last visit, the Potato Galette ($16.90) would be my most likely order. The wonderful herbed galette was fluffy and light with a delicate crisp and soft mealiness reminiscent of a hash brown. Hand-made, it was smooth, creamy and sweet. If that were not enticing enough, the side of honeyed bacon is to die for with its crispy caramelized crust, the mere thought of it leaves me salivating. To finish, one mops up the yolk of poached eggs and sweet red onion jam with fingers of toasted Turkish pide that were gorgeously griddle-crisped on two sides and chewily absorbent on the inside.

My Roast Beef Omelette ($16.90) was good if a tad less sensational than the other offerings. I was told cream cheese added richness and creaminess to the extremely fluffy egg mixture and slicing through it was like opening a treasure chest. The interior was overflowing with huge thin slices of roast beef, tangy mustard, scallions and sprigs of rocket all glued together with creamy hunks of molten brie. Be sure to soak up the thick, slightly tart and richly beefy jus with more fingers of pide and finally cleanse your palette with the mound of sweet tomato chutney sitting atop it all.

A side order that I highly recommend is the Caramelised Balsamic Vinegar with Garlic ($4.50). Thick, syrupy and glossy, the balsamico was generously sweet and possessed immense depth when reduced and caramelized in this manner. It went deliciously with pretty much everything we ordered and be sure to fish out a clove of creamy roasted garlic before they’re all gone.

Regatta Boatshed

Regatta Boatshed – 543 Coronation Drive, Regatta Hotel, Toowong, Queensland

My favourite SAT question: Worshippers are to temple as carnivores are to… STEAKHOUSE! There is something about a gorgeously browned-on-the-outside, rosy-on-the-inside hunk of cow, positively oozing with juice and flavour that pleases on such a fundamental level.

In the suburb where I currently am, the Boatshed Restaurant at the Regatta Hotel is the place to beat when it comes to steak. Dinner for 7 with dessert and a good bottle of wine amounted to just $363.70.

You know you’re in for a good steak when the cuts of meat are on display for all to see. I contemplated skipping the menu and picking my cut right from the display.

We started off with a Corn and Seomlina Cob Loaf ($8) with three dips. The chewy, sweet bread was wonderfully neutral and absorbent, a great vector for the three tantalizing accompaniments. I enjoyed the subtle Indian influences on the tomato dip flavoured with coriander while the smooth, vividly-hued beetroot puree was punchy, sweet and tangy. I didn’t get to try much of the olive oil and dukkah for the mixture of crushed nuts and seeds including cumin, bay and crushed garlic vanished almost immediately, it was that good.

The gorgeous Balsamic Glaze Brochette Bread ($9) did not last long either. Soft and pillowy, it was a veritable sponge for the olive oil and balsamico it was drizzled with. The juicy tomatoes were wonderful though more basil would’ve made them pop.

There were steaks all round and I only resisted the urge to shed all social decorum and run around snapping pictures of everybody else’s because the aroma wafting from my 300g Eye Fillet Steak – Medium Rare ($30.90) had me in its seductive embrace. The first thing that struck me as I sliced through my gorgeously tender steak was how thick it was – about 2 full inches – and how it managed to be cooked just right despite that. A beautiful sear left it with just the right amount of sharp smokiness while the rosy hue within meant a bite that resisted just a little before parting to your teeth, absolute perfection.

The sides I chose were not to be trifled with either, commanding attention all by themselves. My Double Cream Truffle Mash was every bit as decadent as it sounds. Luxuriously smooth without being gummy, generously laced with truffle flavour, rich and creamy, it did not even need the fantastic Veal Jus perfumed with bay, rosemary and thyme that I compulsively tipped over it. I went so far as to separate it into two mounds, with and without the jus, to be savoured independently. To ensure there was some green to my meal, I chose Poached Pear and Parmesan Snow Pea Tendrils as my second side; I never expected it to prove so crisp, so sweet and such an exquisite pleasure to eat.

The Lemon Curd Pie with Blood Orange Sorbet ($9.50) was the most popular dessert at our table, and for good reason. The sweet, crumbly, buttery shortcrust was the perfect foil to the lemon curd which was tart, thick and not too sweet. The only thing one could possibly split hairs about was the sorbet which was so delicately acidic that I initially mistook it for strawberry.

White Chocolate Crème Brûlée with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream ($9.50) came in a close second with its extremely thick, almost fully solid custard and thick burnt sugar crust. With a generous speckling of vanilla bean, this usually fussy and over-refined dessert actually managed to be rustic and satisfying.