Iggy's

Iggy’s – Level 3, The Hilton Hotel, 581 Orchard Road, Singapore

Food is a very subjective area so simultaneously being The Miele Guide Asia’s Number One Restaurant (2010/11) and making it onto the S. Pellegrino list of the World's 50 Best Restaurants (2010) is about as close to objective excellence as Iggy's could possibly get.

I not only scored a lunch reservation for two at the Singapore Hilton's crown jewel but also no less than ringside bar seats at the open-concept patissier section. It would not be an exaggeration to describe restauranteur extraordinaire Ignatius Chan's fusion cuisine as a tingly, fuzzily pleasurable dream-like experience. It is profusion of flavours one struggles to sort and place amid a near-constant state of delirious ecstasy; sort of like being a gastronomic Alice in Wonderland. It did come at an equally surreal bill of $282.48 for two though.

I thoroughly enjoyed the Ceviche of Kiname with Ankimo Sauce and Ostrecia Caviar. The pleasantly pungent ceviche was amazing with the punchy flavour of the monkfish liver sauce while what appeared to be a half-cooked potato sliver was an ingenious and effective base for the marine brininess of the caviar.

At first, the amuse bouche of Eggplant Garlic Bread with Parmesan & Salt Smoked Butter actually looked disappointingly mundane. Even the bread itself had a simple crusty chew that was pleasant but did not set off any fireworks. However - like a sprinkling of fairy dust - the smoked butter made my eyes widen in amazement. The sweet butter base made a bold, gorgeously potent smokiness pop; that being the dominant flavour instead of a more subdued yet still distinct garlic accent. The occasional salt crystal provided just the hint of saline tang needed.

My first course was Duck Confit with Yukon Gold Potato, Mache and Alba Black Truffle which left me unsure of where to start with the numerous discs of black truffle littering it. The meat was superbly soft and not overly salty the way confits tend to be. Nevertheless, that truffle earthiness still went best with the potato purée. So sweet, silky smooth and creamy yet not in any way gummy, I initially mistook it for some sort of cream sauce; with a sliver of black truffle, it was a truffled mash unlike any I've had before.

My dining partner opted for the Kohada with Tomato, Clementine, Mango, Quinoa and Beet instead which had a creative blend of flavours from nutty quinoa, sweet beetroot and tart mango. Her only lament was that the raw fish was quite fishy.

My second course continued with more truffle decadence, this time the even more luxurious white variety; Spaghettini with Poultry Jus and Alba White Truffle Shavings. If I had to describe the Spaghettini in a single word, it would be intense. The jus was so incredibly concentrated that its wonderful umaminess had a mildly bitter edge, going magnificently with that heady truffle perfume. The noodles added a hint of bite and body to a dish that gives one an idea of what pure flavour might be. The three grams of Alba White Truffle came at a $45++ supplement.

My dining partner's second course was equally decadent; Gnocchi with Truffle Salsa and Poached Egg. The truffle salsa was lumpy with what appeared to be coarsely minced black truffle; it likely was if the generous earthy flavour was any guide. A mouthful of tiny, pliantly chewy gnocchi dripping with that rich, aromatic mush indemnified any unceremoniousness that came with piercing the poached egg and stirring that rich yellow goop into the thick mess.

My main course of Lamb with Baba Ganoush and Cornbread seemed like four dishes in one as I had the excruciating pleasure of choosing between savouring the meltingly tender meat nude, coated with sweet and crisp cornmeal, dabbed with creamy baba ganoush or with a pungent clove of roasted garlic.

My dining partner's main was a dramatically presented John Dory with Asparagus and Watermelon Radish. The flaky fish was coated in a deliciously crispy spicy Cajun batter to which smooth, creamy asparagus purée provided a juxtaposition of flavour and texture.

Her dessert of Soursop with Baby Tomato, Cherry and Mascarpone that followed was the ideal fruity, tangy, palate-cleansing close to the meal. The acidic sorbet went remarkably with the dense, sweet cake while the paper-thin sheet of crystallized watermelon sugar provided clean, fruity flavour in addition to aesthetic appeal.

My dessert of Cinnamon Ice Cream with Textures of Chocolate & Mandarin was breathtakingly assembled before our eyes at the bar. I have always adored pairing rich dark chocolate with refreshing citrus perfume but the added smoky spice of cinnamon transports things to an entirely different plane.

The mouthfeel of four different textures of chocolate was unlike anything I experienced before; velvety mousse, chewy brownie, coarse cookie rubble and the glorious snap of dark chocolate all in a single mouthful. The last was only possible through meticulous monitoring of the chocolate as it was tempered; with a nifty thermo-gun.

As a side point, I just adore their Coffee ($6) mugs.

Garibaldi

As Fatlittleboy nears its 10,000^th page view and as my time in Singapore draws to a close, I shall piece together a grand finale of sorts. Lined up over the next few weeks is a selection of Singapore’s definitive fine-dining establishments. These are the big players found in the Miele Guide and on the S. Pellegrino list, offering up ultimate decadence at – some might say – ultimate prices.

The scrimping and saving of military pittance wouldn’t have funded me through the door so a huge “thank you” must be given to my parents for an extremely generous and undeserved allowance as well as dining companions/financiers upon whose appetite and benevolence this was all possible.

Garibaldi – 36 Purvis Street #01-02, Singapore 188613

This 7-year-old eatery is one of the most decorated around, ranking 7^th in the Miele Guide of Asia’s Finest Restaurants 2008/2009, bagging both Restaurant AND Restauranteur (Chef Roberto Galetti) of the Year at the 2009 World Gourmet Summit as well as making it to both Singapore Tatler’s and Wine & Dine Magazine’s lists of top restaurants for 6 consecutive years. That’s just an excerpt from the lengthy list, mind you.

From my perspective, I found the food every bit as sensational as one could possibly expect and huddling in a comfy chair amidst diffused lighting on a drizzly day certainly scored for cozy ambience; but it was the spectacular service that really transported things. My agnolotti bordered on gastronomic nirvana yet it is the warm conversation and cheery smile of my waitress that would make me remember Garibaldi the next time I’m in town. An extravagant lunch with a full-blown seasonal degustation* for two and a 6-course a la carte selection for one amounted to $514.35.

The Sundried Tomato Foccacia amuse bouche was served hot enough to make you feel pleasantly warmed yet cool enough to be comfortably handled. What I remember the most was the mouth feel of remarkable crustiness and moist fluffiness in each bite without a gradient in between, this more so than the safe, classical flavour profile.

Pio Tosini Parma Ham Prosciutto with Traditional Romagna Fried Dough ($25) wowed with the subtle pungency and robust porcine character of aged, dry-cured, spiced Italian ham sourced from an artisanal curing company with a 105 year history.

On top of that, one wraps the ham around crisp, buttery hollow dough puffs that were warm and sweet to juxtapose the meat’s cool saltiness.

It is not humanly possible to turn down Wagyu Beef Carpaccio with Parmigiano Cheese and Rocket Salad ($28), no offence to vegetarians. I daresay Carpaccio is the ultimate way to enjoy quality beef – flavours are most potent when enjoyed in the raw – especially wrapped around a shaving of sweet-salty Parmigiano and a forkful of astringent rocket.

Course one of the Menu Stagionale ($138) was a single Coffin Bay Oyster with Caviar and I appreciated how the incredibly creamy yet subtly-flavoured Australian Pacific variety formed the perfect decadent yet subdued platform for the marine salinity of black gold to take the spotlight.

The Pan Seared Hokkaido Scallop with Caponata & Liquorice that followed was another treat. I have yet to get over the magic of Hokkaido scallops since my brush with Absinthe’s Carpaccio of them that I savoured in July and this dish served to ignite rather than diminish my fascination. Firm and meaty with a crisp outer sear and a sweet, yieldingly chewy interior, I sliced off tiny fractions to make the shellfish last as long as possible; which still was a flash. The thick, stew-like vegetable caponata accompanying the scallops was brilliantly refreshing with its vibrant, sweet-sour mixture of tomato and aubergine too.

The Pumpkin soup with Truffle Mascarpone Cheese intrigued me as you sort of assemble your own truffled cream of pumpkin by stirring together the globules of aromatic truffle oil and creamy mascarpone suspended in the smooth pumpkin puree. The end result was sweet, smooth and brimming with that wonderful pungent earthiness I love about truffles.

As a comparison, the a la carte Soup of the Day ($16) was a lovely carrot soup with crab. Suffused with sweet crustacean flavour, it was incredibly aromatic and the tender crab provided a hint of bite to the smooth puree.

Course number four of the seasonal menu was perhaps my favourite of the lot, Ox-Tail Beef Agnolotti with Celery Root Purea & Pistachio. I have always liked stuffed pasta but while more common raviolis are filled with a paste of ricotta or a puree of pumpkin, Agnolotti takes things a step further with a fully solid filling; slivers of tender ox-tail in this case. The bold flavour of the meat was matched with a gorgeous herby, classical browned butter with sage. One particular agnolotti crowned with a sage leaf (visible below) was a veritable explosion of flavour on my tongue that left my taste buds in delicious shell shock.

After the splendour of the agnolotti, the dramatically presented Pan Fried Jumbo Prawns with San Marzano Tomatoes and Orange did not shine quite so brightly. The famed sauce tomatoes did make for a spectacular, rich sweetness in the gravy but I found the enormous, meaty shrimp a tad overdone. Still it was good, very good.

The Roasted Australian Lamb Rack with Caramelized Pearl Onion & Mustard Sauce was truly a work of carnivorous art; I paused for a long moment to revel in that wonderful aroma and breathtaking sight before tucking in with gusto. Pink, juicy and packing meaty, ovine punch; medium rare is lamb enjoyed at its prime state to me. The side of caramelized shallots was downright dreamy with a sugary sweetness worthy of dessert status.

The a la carte selection made at the table was for First Grade Angus Beef Tenderloin with Potato Gratin and Red Wine Sauce ($48). My dining companion ordered his tenderloin done medium well but it still managed to be superbly tender and moist, I was in awe. The halo of sweet carrot balls and crunchy zucchini lumps around the glorious hunk of beast certainly made for a pretty picture. Would I be wrong to think that Chef Roberto Galetti serves up authentic Italian fare with the aesthetic finesse normally found in the French?

My dessert was a Rhubarb Tart Amaretti and Chocolate Coulis that was certainly pleasing if not groundbreaking. I loved the tangy chunk of rhubarb I unearthed within that soft almond cookie as much as the wonderfully tart sorbet crowning it. The chocolate coulis was good on its own but seemed at odds with the other components to me.

The dessert my companion chose a la carte was a Lava Cake that was certainly good as he’s quite a connoisseur of this confection and it’s his standard order here.

* A second degustation menu's also available for $98++ but it was much more tame.

Scratchley's

Scratchley’s – 200 Wharf Road, Newcastle, New South Wales

Newcastle is a mere two hours drive away from Sydney and offers a great escape with some beautiful beaches and sensational seafood. One place that a visit to Newcastle is not complete without a meal at is Scratchley’s. A veritable institution located right on the water, it offers a stunning view of the harbour, if you can spare a moment to look up from your plate that is.

The seafood was spectacular even though my visit during the Christmas – New Year period meant that I didn’t get a chance to try out the famed “Specials”, an ever-changing menu available during off-peak periods which is constructed according to the seasonal fish hauled in. A lunch for five amounted to $285, complete with drinks all round.

I started out with Scratchley’s Famous Char-grilled Antipasto ($19); this appetiser portion is conveniently half the size and price of having it as a main. Every single marine critter was done complete justice despite the immense variety on my plate; each one was grilled its individual point of perfection balancing flavourful char and springy softness or delicate flakiness where appropriate. The squid was likely the best I’ve ever had with a yielding chew and a remarkable sweetness I had never tasted in squid before. However, it was ultimately the plump, juicy baby octopus accentuated by a robust, coarse basil-almond pesto that stole the show completely and which continues to defy adequate description.

Another starter popular at our table was the Scratchley’s Seafood Chowder ($15) with a masterfully executed classical Velouté base of light stock thickened with blond roux. Smooth and adequately yet not overpoweringly flavoured, it set a new standard that typically lumpy, over-thickened and starchy chowders fall far short of. A solid combination of vegetables like carrots, corn kernels and scallions supported the sweet shrimp, pliantly chewy octopus and tender fish, all chopped into bits that were large enough to be distinguished on the tongue yet small enough so as not to detract from the velvety smooth feel.

The Garlic King Prawns Sautéed in Garlic, Shallot, White Wine and Cream Sauce with Steamed Basmati Rice ($19) was quite breathtaking with that gorgeously glossy sauce napping the massive prawns and gradually soaking into fluffy grains.

Both the Garlic Bread ($5) and Herb & Cheese Bread ($5) were pillow-soft and extremely fluffy. A mere half-centimeter layer of flavouring agent on the surface of the bread provided all the punch and character necessary. This allowed both bread and spread to harmonise but remain distinct, thus avoiding the typical soggy saturatedness or rock-hard crispness found in most flavoured breads.

My Red Emperor Fillet Dusted in Cajun Spices on Smashed Kipfler Potatoes with Char-Grilled Balsamic Vegetables, Carrot & Ginger Raitha and Sweet Potato Curls ($38) was every bit as spectacular as that wonderfully detailed description promised. Firm and moist, it was fragrantly spiced yet subtly enough that the natural flavour of the supremely fresh fish was not overwhelmed but further accentuated by a creamy, tangy raitha sauce. The coarse mash had a mind-boggling array of flavour and texture from sweet pepper to salty zucchini and mealy potato, all perfumed with a generous amount of thyme.

I couldn’t cross-examine my fellow diners for their opinions on their own mains but I think the pictures alone will suffice as more than adequate descriptions!

Blue Eye Cod Fillet Roasted in Thai Flavours with a Corn & Coriander Crust on Saffron & Lime Basmati Pilaf and Green Curry Coconut Sauce ($35).

Snapper Fillet Roasted in Lemon, Garlic & Thyme on a Salad of Black Lentils, Preserved Lemon, Pine Nuts & Coriander with Coconut Yoghurt Dressing ($38).

Tender Calamari Golden-Fried with Real Tartare Sauce & Lemon ($32).